bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

Its a weight to balance out the fact that the F104 diff is very heavy,its a smooth diff but much heavier than the plastic pieces. Other than that you get a tube instead of the discs for friction,FRP chassis plates and different color alloy bits,and motor spacer.
No tires,wheels or body.
Its sort of confusing why Tamiya keeps bringing out all these different parts for the F104. It really is a TCS only chassis so what the point of bring out more parts other than to make more money.If everybody is running the same thing whats the point?
My F104 Pro is fine with just adding the alloy gear box parts,all the other options they have come up with do not improve the car at all.
Might have something to do with the fact the the chassis was designed by one guy and the options another/much younger guy.

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

I've weighed my F1 under each wheel and there is only 3g difference from right to left. The car is well balanced in it's design as is....

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

what lock tight or what are you using on the nut for on the friction plate,just want to double check before using anything that will not allow me to move it again

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

If i am reading it right.. 'pointless' right?

PDR

iTrader: (31)

I think an o-ring does the job nicely.

Andrew Barr

iTrader: (73)

The O ring is pretty good. To be absolutely sure you could try Loctite Super Wick In. It is designed for small adjustment screws on carbies that are designed to be constantly screwed in and out. It is a green colour fluid and I am not sure what number it is.

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

I stole some clear nail polish from da Missus (honest!! ). Stops it unthreading and easy to break off and unscrew if one desires....

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

What is the scoop on the f104 x1?

I have the f104 pro black edition, trying to get my co-workers at LHS to run f1 cars.

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the tips, would never have thought of nail polish i will give it a shot along with the o-ring do you guys run the standard setting of 4mm

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

To keep the nut on the damper post from loosening use a tiny bit of Tamiya antiwear grease, thick, sticky and wont lock the nut.
O ring on top to keep you from "the walk of shame" if it does happen to fall off on the track.

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

Pointless till you get beat by it. Also let's face it, Tamiya has done no development on regards to the rear damper, it is a carryover from the 103. I think Tamiya is trying to stay current with the trends that are out there as far as chassis and suspension design

robk

iTrader: (22)

The only thing the side damper does is separate the fore/aft dampening from the side to side. So your center shock setup is now separate from what happens with roll dampening. Is it better? Maybe...but it's still a t bar car. Roll and pitch are still connected.

If it weren't for lipos, you'd still see 12L4s with damper plates out there going as fast as anything .

MaxSp97

iTrader: (5)

F104 X1 pictures

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9073608-post2688.html

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

or cut a small piece of fuel tubing ..if you run gas

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

for me, it always interesting to see what Tamiya does to 'improve' the car since i only run TAC or TCS in your region.