14LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
08-31-2010, 01:48 PM
#3226
Thanks for the reply. I just installed the high traction t-bar for my last run. I am getting ready to go run it again now so I'll try adjusting the rear shock to see if that helps gain any rear traction. Ill also bring the tools to adjust the diff to see if tightening it/loosening it helps.
I used a magnetic prop balancer. I bought it for balancing some of my RC heli parts, but it also works perfect for RC wheels/tires. I used a few thick pieces of 3M double sided tape to get the balance right. If the tape isn't enough weight, you could also glue small nuts/bolts inside the rim to get it properly balanced... just make sure they are secure
Luckily, mine weren't that far off so I was able to balance them with just a few pieces of tape on each rim.
I used a magnetic prop balancer. I bought it for balancing some of my RC heli parts, but it also works perfect for RC wheels/tires. I used a few thick pieces of 3M double sided tape to get the balance right. If the tape isn't enough weight, you could also glue small nuts/bolts inside the rim to get it properly balanced... just make sure they are secure
Luckily, mine weren't that far off so I was able to balance them with just a few pieces of tape on each rim.Light oil and softest (gold) spring for the shock, O ring screw just barely to the point of being fully seated on the T bar and the adjuster screw for the damper plate just touching the top spring. Diff grease on these plates helps a ton too.
You will be at full grip in the rear, option soft tires.
kids soft modeling clay is another great way to add weight for balancing, it won't harden and will stick to a clean surface forever.
Add a chunk and remove what is not needed a little at a time.
I gotta get off the computer but I just got done at the Nats. and I'm winding down by BS ing here.
08-31-2010, 02:16 PM
#3227
Tech Adept
iTrader: (28)
Congrats for 2nd place at the Nationals!! I saw the results on the other thread. I bet that was one hell of a race!! Were you running the F104 or F103? Is there any video of the event? That is awesome that you are on the forums here too helping everyone out!! Sometimes it is pretty hard to get good advice so I really appreciate the help.
The center bolt in my Tbar is set pretty loose so I'll tighten that up now. I don't have any other springs for the main shock, but Ill get some ordered tonight. If I could just get a little more rear grip, this thing would be unstoppable
The center bolt in my Tbar is set pretty loose so I'll tighten that up now. I don't have any other springs for the main shock, but Ill get some ordered tonight. If I could just get a little more rear grip, this thing would be unstoppable
08-31-2010, 02:33 PM
#3228
Congrats for 2nd place at the Nationals!! I saw the results on the other thread. I bet that was one hell of a race!! Were you running the F104 or F103? Is there any video of the event? That is awesome that you are on the forums here too helping everyone out!! Sometimes it is pretty hard to get good advice so I really appreciate the help.
The center bolt in my Tbar is set pretty loose so I'll tighten that up now. I don't have any other springs for the main shock, but Ill get some ordered tonight. If I could just get a little more rear grip, this thing would be unstoppable
The center bolt in my Tbar is set pretty loose so I'll tighten that up now. I don't have any other springs for the main shock, but Ill get some ordered tonight. If I could just get a little more rear grip, this thing would be unstoppable
This years Nats were F104 on rubber tires only.
All viddys are here, you get to scroll thru em tho
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/horizonhobby-com
You do want your t bar screw as loose as possible without it stickin out.
Just enough to seat it in the countersunk hole.
Bend the t bar around a little when checking it to see if the screw head edges aren't stickin up or the hole may wear out quickly.
08-31-2010, 08:29 PM
#3229
Thanks Funkydude, it was intense!
This years Nats were F104 on rubber tires only.
All viddys are here, you get to scroll thru em tho
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/horizonhobby-com
You do want your t bar screw as loose as possible without it stickin out.
Just enough to seat it in the countersunk hole.
Bend the t bar around a little when checking it to see if the screw head edges aren't stickin up or the hole may wear out quickly.
This years Nats were F104 on rubber tires only.
All viddys are here, you get to scroll thru em tho
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/horizonhobby-com
You do want your t bar screw as loose as possible without it stickin out.
Just enough to seat it in the countersunk hole.
Bend the t bar around a little when checking it to see if the screw head edges aren't stickin up or the hole may wear out quickly.
08-31-2010, 09:37 PM
#3231
YOu need on of those super thin plastic nozzle tips, these are almost as thin as hypodermic needles, which you put on the nozzle of the glue bottle. Very flexible and it will let you squirt the glue on the very tight spaces between wheel and tire.
08-31-2010, 10:16 PM
#3232
I work it around til the foam and tire are as even as possible on the rim.
Then double up a heavy duty rubber band around one side of the tire so that it's squeezed tight to the rim, perfect fit, it'll get there.
Then I go to one spot, I start at the Tamiya logo so I can remember, peel the tire back gently away from the rim in that one spot and put one drop of glue inside the tire lips then fit it back on the rim and hold it for a few seconds.
Less glue lets the tire bond to the rim and not just a flood of glue.
Next I go across to the opposite side of the tire and do the same thing.
Next go halfway back towards the Tamiya logo where you started and do it again, in a cross pattern and repeat again...
You should get the idea, keep putting tiny drops in one spot at a time and you'll be dialed, it goes quickly cuz the small amounts of glue bond quickly.
Finish off this side of the tire/rim with a tiny bead around the edge of the tire/rim and try to peel the tire back gently to expose any loose edges and the glue will fill in those spots.
Kinda like welding sheet metal, one spot, move away from that spot to let it cool and weld another spot, repeat til the whole panel is welded one spot at a time.
09-01-2010, 01:17 AM
#3233
Should anyone need an F104 Pro I have one up for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...never-ran.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...never-ran.html
09-01-2010, 10:32 AM
#3234
Yeh, the F104 tire/rim combo isn't the perfect fit but really isn't off by much and will come out nicely.
I work it around til the foam and tire are as even as possible on the rim.
Then double up a heavy duty rubber band around one side of the tire so that it's squeezed tight to the rim, perfect fit, it'll get there.
Then I go to one spot, I start at the Tamiya logo so I can remember, peel the tire back gently away from the rim in that one spot and put one drop of glue inside the tire lips then fit it back on the rim and hold it for a few seconds.
Less glue lets the tire bond to the rim and not just a flood of glue.
Next I go across to the opposite side of the tire and do the same thing.
Next go halfway back towards the Tamiya logo where you started and do it again, in a cross pattern and repeat again...
You should get the idea, keep putting tiny drops in one spot at a time and you'll be dialed, it goes quickly cuz the small amounts of glue bond quickly.
Finish off this side of the tire/rim with a tiny bead around the edge of the tire/rim and try to peel the tire back gently to expose any loose edges and the glue will fill in those spots.
Kinda like welding sheet metal, one spot, move away from that spot to let it cool and weld another spot, repeat til the whole panel is welded one spot at a time.
I work it around til the foam and tire are as even as possible on the rim.
Then double up a heavy duty rubber band around one side of the tire so that it's squeezed tight to the rim, perfect fit, it'll get there.
Then I go to one spot, I start at the Tamiya logo so I can remember, peel the tire back gently away from the rim in that one spot and put one drop of glue inside the tire lips then fit it back on the rim and hold it for a few seconds.
Less glue lets the tire bond to the rim and not just a flood of glue.
Next I go across to the opposite side of the tire and do the same thing.
Next go halfway back towards the Tamiya logo where you started and do it again, in a cross pattern and repeat again...
You should get the idea, keep putting tiny drops in one spot at a time and you'll be dialed, it goes quickly cuz the small amounts of glue bond quickly.
Finish off this side of the tire/rim with a tiny bead around the edge of the tire/rim and try to peel the tire back gently to expose any loose edges and the glue will fill in those spots.
Kinda like welding sheet metal, one spot, move away from that spot to let it cool and weld another spot, repeat til the whole panel is welded one spot at a time.
Now I realize how bad I effed up the first set I did.
09-01-2010, 10:44 AM
#3236
09-03-2010, 01:30 PM
#3237
F104 Pro help please
I need some help with the F104 Pro from the pro's.
My LHS has a weekly race series that allows any 1/10 scale onroad cars to race. Keep in mind these races are for fun and the only thing you win is bragging rights.
My question is this, would the F104 Pro be a good/fun car to race with, on a rubber gym floor surface? Would the stock foam tires work in this application?
I would be powering the car with a Novak Havok 2s 10.5 brushless combo (because I already have it).
Also, does anyone know if the Turnigy 5200mah 2S lipo hardcase battery will fit into the F104?
I am new to onroad (die hard crawler guy here) and I want something different from all of the HPI and Tamiya 4wd touring cars that everyone is running. Always loved the look of the F104 and It would be cool to be the only one there.
My LHS has a weekly race series that allows any 1/10 scale onroad cars to race. Keep in mind these races are for fun and the only thing you win is bragging rights.
My question is this, would the F104 Pro be a good/fun car to race with, on a rubber gym floor surface? Would the stock foam tires work in this application?
I would be powering the car with a Novak Havok 2s 10.5 brushless combo (because I already have it).
Also, does anyone know if the Turnigy 5200mah 2S lipo hardcase battery will fit into the F104?
I am new to onroad (die hard crawler guy here) and I want something different from all of the HPI and Tamiya 4wd touring cars that everyone is running. Always loved the look of the F104 and It would be cool to be the only one there.
09-03-2010, 01:42 PM
#3238
You make it sound like a "run what you brung" type race. So, I'm guessing there will be 4WD sedan cars and other different kinds of cars in the mix? F1 cars are some what fragile, with open wheels and hard plastic wings.
09-03-2010, 02:29 PM
#3239
Are they very fragile?
Would I be better off with the HPI F1?
09-03-2010, 04:24 PM
#3240
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Even the most robust car will break in the hands of a hack.
My LHS has 2X4 boards seperating the lanes and for the outer bourder, so any mistake can be harsh on a car. I've hit them on both edges of the front wing, and clapped 'em pretty hard sideways coming out of a couple turns. Nothing broke.
The real question is, can you be satisfied having fun with a car that will not be competative against a good driver with a TC car? And, can you/will you take the time to learn the nuances of setting up the 104?
On Ozite the F104 (on foams) is a blast. Outdoor basketball court with some kind of very grippy surface, slightly more difficult but still a blast.
You'll have to figure out what works for the surface you're gonna be on.
My LHS has 2X4 boards seperating the lanes and for the outer bourder, so any mistake can be harsh on a car. I've hit them on both edges of the front wing, and clapped 'em pretty hard sideways coming out of a couple turns. Nothing broke.
The real question is, can you be satisfied having fun with a car that will not be competative against a good driver with a TC car? And, can you/will you take the time to learn the nuances of setting up the 104?
On Ozite the F104 (on foams) is a blast. Outdoor basketball court with some kind of very grippy surface, slightly more difficult but still a blast.
You'll have to figure out what works for the surface you're gonna be on.