this is So on my facebook right now!

i have been meaning to buy another gt 2.0 for a new car i just built... i was going to wait for the 2.1...

but from what you are saying the 2.0 will be able to run the same stock software that 2.1 will be coming with than it makes sense to just buy the 2.0 right now

am i understanding this correctly?

checkout this shop
maybe some1 might need it...:sweat::sweat:

That is correct. What the 2.1 offers is the smaller footprint and the billet aluminum case. So if space is an issue and you wont be running mod, then this is what you need. Otherwise, the GT or LPF 2.0 is the way to go.

happy b-day Adam...here's a present...island style.

Check back 10 or 20 pages, TryHard and myself have discussed this at length!

Had my LHS call in a order for a 2.1 wed. this week, found out that it won't even be available (even backorder) till the end of March, our indoor season is over by then, oh well.........there's next season:cool:

footprint is the same, I confirmed that earlier this week

what are the benefit in jumping from sp gt v1.1 to the new v2.0?
are the v2.0 any puncher then the v1.1?
thanx

Speed Passion GT 2.1 ProStock
 

Adam, What is GT2.1 Pro Stock is,
LPF or PRO (hardware meaning) ?

.

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I just picked up a brand new GT V2.0 in trade and would like to use it in 17.5 touring car.

I've got a Corally Phi and run a 17.5 Duo, the original red one with a 5000 40c lipo. What timing should I use on the motor and what FDR do I need to run?

Also do I need to install a different profile in the speedo or just plug it in and go?

Thanks for any info.

so is there any performance benefit in having the 2.1 over the 2.0 pro or even the lpf for spec racing? I've always used lrp gear but was thinking of swiching to SP when the 2.1 comes out, but if I'll be able to run the same software on the 2.0 I'll get that instead

That's settles it then SP GT PRO 2 it is then but are there
any plans to change the gt2 pro to the ally case as the stock 2.1 or upgrade it generally ?

you might have more Puncher but look at this...

luckily you with SP GT v1.1 Build in

Allow us to run :
- Brushed Motor (Not Build in SP GT v2.0 software.)
- Brushless Motor Sensored
- Brushless Motor Sensoreless
- Incoming Slotless Brushless Motor Sensored
- Incoming Slotless Brushless Motor Sensoreless



Source :
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-racing-3.html

I've been watching the thread, and I don't think this guy ever got an answer to his question, and since I have the same concerns, I thought I'd bump it back up on the thread... I'm going to be running a v3 13.5 for the first time this weekend in my XXX-CR offroad, and dust, dirt, and debris are serious concerns. I suppose it would be possible to put tape over the holes in the can, but that would prevent the cooling the vents provide..? At times, we used to use 'vet-wrap' to wrap brushed motors to reduce dirt infiltration, but that, too reduced cooling. I currently plan to just run it "open" and see how it goes, but anyone with experience and advice would be MOST appreciated...?

It all depends on what kind of dirt you will be running on. If it is packed clay, then you really don't have anything to worry about. But if it is dry, loose dirt, you might have some issues, but nothing compressed air won't fix.

Comparing the motor from On-road to Off-road, the Off-road motors do not get anywhere near the heat of my On-road cars. I think it is due to not being full throttle all the time and lot's of air will air-cool the motors. I think, if you blow off the motor and ur car for that matter, the dirt shouldn't be an issue. If you are racing, just blow it off after your race.

If you are bashing(7minutes or longer) then you probably will be more prone to getting dirt in the motor, so keep that in mind. I would keep your run times to every 5 mintues or close to it. Plus, shorter runs is less harsh on you equipment.