saleen95

iTrader: (24)

I have read up a few pages back. At the beggining I read up on how the 110 soaftware ran cooler and people thought it was a better soatware. But know it seems to be that the 107 seems to be the one that runs stronger, just alittle hotter. It seems people are leaning over to the 107 vs. the 110. Has anyone one tried both on a high bite track with a strieght of about 110 to about 120 ft. What I have read up is how the 110 software runs cooler and 107 hotter but if it is not that much cooler I don't mined the 107. I messed with the 110 I don't think that I had the gearing down to a T but if people have tried both and have some positive info on 107 being a better suit for the 13.5 I'd apreciate some feedback. I have seen how agresive some of these cars look down the strieght and on take off just want to be as competative on power and speed. thanks for any info

Tha Skinny

iTrader: (8)

is the LCD box not on the shumacher site anymore? How much is it from them?

himura

i dont have any problems with the new software and windows7, iam running the win7 Ultimate 64-bit. And the problem is?

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

I've heard from a couple users issues with installation

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

Not sure why it's not on there????

But $39.99

energydrink

Anyboday.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

DRRS is the setting of how aggressive you want your throttle to feel.

We don't have recommended gear charts yet but that's a project I plan on taking over in the very near future.

What motor are you running?

charlie_b

iTrader: (1)

DDRRS is the Punch settings.

As far as gearing, there is no "standardized" gearing 'cuz tracks are all different from different parts of the US as well as the world. Lets start by asking you what motor are you running and what kinda of track. Then tell us how big the track is so we can more specifically help you with your dilemma.
It is not a bonehead question, but asking the right questions might give you a more direct answer. That and a plethora of answers in this thread has had your question has been answered many times on here.

himura

ok.. the only thing i did was disabled the norton internet security and unistalled the old version. And then i installed the new software. no problem yet

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

Cool man, I'll take note of that and pass that along if I talk to more customers having any issues

AdminD

Is Programming box gt2 work's on Speedpassion Gt1.1 ESC ?

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

If you are referring to the LCD box for the GT2, if so, then no

Now that I think about it, neither does the stock box, the settings are different.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

(Please pardon some "offroad" questions, but this is THE thread for Speed Passion products, so..?)

I've been running a V2/UltraSportsman 13.5 in my XXX-CR buggy, geared 28:82 with great success. (Racing in MOD 2wd Buggy on a 450'/lap indoor offroad track.)

I now have a V3 13.5, and that is where the questions come in...

I notice the V3 has almost zero endplay -- in fact, at first I thought it was zero, but there is tiny amount (I can feel it, but it's not visible). I seem to recall seeing some posts about shimming the rotor to achieve 0.05" endplay, but that wasn't from an official source..? What is the official recomendation? (leave it as is, re-shim..?)

Also -- the adjustable timing is great, but the documentation is lacking in terms of defining the real vs indicated timing. One post in this thread seemed to imply that the zero mark is truly zero timing, and the 10 degree mark is truly 10 degrees. However, another post said that measurements indicated that the factory setting (roughly 5degrees on the endbell) is actually 30 degrees of timing...??? (The V2 was fixed at about 10-12 degrees)... I don't want to "assume" anything, as a bad guess on timing could let the magic factory smoke out...?

Assuming for the sake of argument that I start with the factory timing, and retain the current GT 2.0 LPF settings (which are working well for me offroad), what gearing change would be recommended? (Up 'x' teeth on the pinion, down 'x' teeth, or stay the same to start..?)

Thanks in advance...

razzor

leave the motor shimming as is .

The Hawaiian

iTrader: (94)

ok will be doing some testing this weekend @ Adrenaline this Sunday.
My setup:
Xray T2 007
SP GT 2.0 LPF program 107??
Mom's motors 17.5
epic 5000 40c
futaba s9551
RP 30's or Takeoff cs27
Mazda speed 6 or Stratus 3.0
M11 w/ specktrum
gearing 78/27 FDR= 4.91
speedpassion GT 2.0 lpf set at:
no fan
Running mode (1)
drag break force (3)
low voltage cut-off (4)
DRRS starte mode (9)
brake force (3)
initial brake force (1)
neutral range (1)
AMTS timing (7)
over-heat protection (1)
will tweek things as the day goes...will post results when I get home...there will be some fast guys there with all the competitors speedo's present...so will be able to see how SP hold up against the other brands.