6LikesSchumacher Mi4
10-23-2011, 09:20 PM
#3136
10-24-2011, 03:38 AM
#3137
Tech Initiate
I have a MI4 and would like to fit the new long top deck, many thanks for your pictures Grippgoat, there are very helpful but I have a couple of questions.
How long is the long screw (The one that you have described as being too short for use on L.P's and Mi4's.)
It looks like the layshaft bulkheads are the same as the on the Cx and the L.P . Will my old MI4 layshaft etc.. fit?
How long is the long screw (The one that you have described as being too short for use on L.P's and Mi4's.)
It looks like the layshaft bulkheads are the same as the on the Cx and the L.P . Will my old MI4 layshaft etc.. fit?
Last edited by mark barford; 10-24-2011 at 03:40 AM. Reason: trying to explain myself more clearly.
10-24-2011, 03:59 AM
#3138
@all
I have problems with steering trim after hitting something.
Don't get me wrong, i'm an experienced driver, but sometimes you get hit or you touch something if you want to push hard. If this happens, the car pulls to one side and i have to trim new (maybe 3 steps/beeps) i hope you understand. If you have to trim during a main, your race is gone.
I have a CX with standard steering (not twin-point) and i use no servo saver. I have changed the whole steering yet and also the servo, still the same issues. Has anybody else experienced similar problems? Would the twin-point steering maybe help?
I never had this with other cars (T3, TC5)
Thanks in advance.
I have problems with steering trim after hitting something.
Don't get me wrong, i'm an experienced driver, but sometimes you get hit or you touch something if you want to push hard. If this happens, the car pulls to one side and i have to trim new (maybe 3 steps/beeps) i hope you understand. If you have to trim during a main, your race is gone.
I have a CX with standard steering (not twin-point) and i use no servo saver. I have changed the whole steering yet and also the servo, still the same issues. Has anybody else experienced similar problems? Would the twin-point steering maybe help?
I never had this with other cars (T3, TC5)
Thanks in advance.
I was able to cure that with servo tape.
Turned out well, got a podium finish yesterday.
Thanks!
10-24-2011, 10:41 AM
#3139
Tech Master
Mark, they are 30mm, and yes your layshaft is fine.
Matt
Matt
10-24-2011, 12:24 PM
#3140
does anybody have a good setup for SUPER high bite glass like asphalt (for The Colliseum in Md.)? the kind of asphalt that causes the inner rear tire to lift and traction roll.
10-30-2011, 03:44 PM
#3145
Me and my mates Mi4lp and mi4cx both run no lead weights on our car and a 290gram lipo, we both have to have the front servo side shock collar wound down a fair amount more than the front right to get the car tweak free, and there is no binding in anything and chassis is perfectly flat, shocks all have same rebound as well.
Are others finding this as well or is it just chance that both our cars have this?
and rear collars are pretty much the same left and right
Are others finding this as well or is it just chance that both our cars have this?
and rear collars are pretty much the same left and right
11-05-2011, 07:52 PM
#3146
how do you guys build this (race shock seal rebuild)? --> http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...4CX/U2999.html
i see 6 o-rings--4 blue and 2 clear....do i either use 2 blues in one shock (is this what is called double o-rings?)or one clear in shock, or two blues and one clear in one shock?
i see 6 o-rings--4 blue and 2 clear....do i either use 2 blues in one shock (is this what is called double o-rings?)or one clear in shock, or two blues and one clear in one shock?
11-05-2011, 10:03 PM
#3147
take a shock off your car, take it apart, count the o rings and note the color, replace with new parts.
11-06-2011, 03:02 AM
#3148
how do you guys build this (race shock seal rebuild)? --> http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...4CX/U2999.html
i see 6 o-rings--4 blue and 2 clear....do i either use 2 blues in one shock (is this what is called double o-rings?)or one clear in shock, or two blues and one clear in one shock?
i see 6 o-rings--4 blue and 2 clear....do i either use 2 blues in one shock (is this what is called double o-rings?)or one clear in shock, or two blues and one clear in one shock?
11-07-2011, 12:33 AM
#3149
the rear width of the car should NEVER in any case be wider than the front.
If you where to measure a Yokomo, a HB (team setup!) or a Tamiya you will find that all there cars frontends are 1-2mm wider than the rear-ends.
This is the reason why the cars are actually good.
A wide rear width will feel like a bit more steering initially in you first few laps. But crucial things like cornerspeed, corner flow, precision and aggression get reduced drastically.
If you build the car as per team setupsheets (2.5 front spacers, 1.5/0.5 (with alloy mounts!) rear spacers with a .5 shim against the rear hex) you will find that the cars is 1.5mm wider at the front than it is at the back.
This is spot-on trackwidth and apart from Ride tires (where you should use an additional .5 spacer against all hexes) is not to be altered.
11-07-2011, 02:58 AM
#3150
I'd stick with 2,4mm and not bother about it.
the rear width of the car should NEVER in any case be wider than the front.
If you where to measure a Yokomo, a HB (team setup!) or a Tamiya you will find that all there cars frontends are 1-2mm wider than the rear-ends.
This is the reason why the cars are actually good.
A wide rear width will feel like a bit more steering initially in you first few laps. But crucial things like cornerspeed, corner flow, precision and aggression get reduced drastically.
If you build the car as per team setupsheets (2.5 front spacers, 1.5/0.5 (with alloy mounts!) rear spacers with a .5 shim against the rear hex) you will find that the cars is 1.5mm wider at the front than it is at the back.
This is spot-on trackwidth and apart from Ride tires (where you should use an additional .5 spacer against all hexes) is not to be altered.
the rear width of the car should NEVER in any case be wider than the front.
If you where to measure a Yokomo, a HB (team setup!) or a Tamiya you will find that all there cars frontends are 1-2mm wider than the rear-ends.
This is the reason why the cars are actually good.
A wide rear width will feel like a bit more steering initially in you first few laps. But crucial things like cornerspeed, corner flow, precision and aggression get reduced drastically.
If you build the car as per team setupsheets (2.5 front spacers, 1.5/0.5 (with alloy mounts!) rear spacers with a .5 shim against the rear hex) you will find that the cars is 1.5mm wider at the front than it is at the back.
This is spot-on trackwidth and apart from Ride tires (where you should use an additional .5 spacer against all hexes) is not to be altered.
I'm 0.5 wider at rear blocks, but will try the change. I'm also using HPI pink springs with the soft weave chassis and 1.5 frnt/0.5 rear under the 4-groove links. Should I try a change there?
The track I'm mostly racing is small (tennis court + outer boundary), tight, smooth but large stone tarmac, outdoor at night, 16'c on MuchMore 32v.