jp_666

Hi Jilles and Congrates on being World Champion!!!!

Carlos M.

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Hi Jilles,

Do you live in Thailand? I think I met you before at a TITC race in BKK at RCS when it was around. I have a house in BKK.

Redko

iTrader: (3)

Hi Kevin,

I think the shock body is a proto shock body as closer look the top end design of the shock body looks like the buddy shock design..

I might be wrong but please do take a look at the photos again.

Maybe Jilles can answer our questions here??

thanks

NItrox416

Hi Jilles,
Congratulations for the victory at worlds.
Nicolō C.(from Italy)

JGH

Hi Craig, I ran the shocks in the first hole from inside, this was due the narrow susp. blocks. Don't know why Kiyo write second hole. We used new sort plastic which is similar to the carbon arms, it's not the soft plastic arms, they look same! Not sure about the buggy shocks, maybe release later this year!

Sure changing to other tyres the car will feel a lot different. Any tyre needs it's own set-up. Some tyres are faster then other tyres and you can't find it in the set-up.

Thanks! For the Worlds we made the car more narrow, which gave more traction especially on old tyres! For hi traction I recommend to use normal XA-E blocks rear and 1C front.

On the radio I use about 85% ( I use Sanwa ). On the speedo I had 75% brake. For the 1/12 my speedo temp went up to 80 degree celsius, it's hot but reasonable, I didn't had trouble the whole WC event. Sometimes more boost doesn't give more temp, you must find the right balance.

Thanks! I used 1mm shims under the motor mount, this gives more chassis roll, so more traction! This usually only works for old tyres or low traction.

I use the twinspec charger, not sure what firmware.

Stock 729 is the older version, on the Team Orion website you can find the latest 208 stock software ( V1.68 ).

Thanks!

Yes, I live in Thailand. I usually practise at RC Addict and RC City! Maybe see you around!

The buggy shocks are prototype. I think the cap is same as the ones of the Tamiya buggy but the alu shock house isn't the same as the screw thread is different!

Thanks!

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Hi Jilles, well done again at the euros - if you didn't have the belt issue it looks like you would have another title to your name!

Back to electric, have you got any tips for getting more initial steering. I'm already running sweep (C/B) and antidive at the front but I don't seem to have the same bite that others have

johnsen-dk

Hi Jilles

Contratiolation on the worlds , and also 3 place at the nitro euro , by far the fastest driver/car of all drivers

Thinking of getting a R10 1s speedo , but I have a few questions.
Last year I tried a SP gt2,1 and hade big temp problems. Do you know if the R10 is based on the same electronic/software?? When you look at the manual does the programming guide looks very much the same. I can tell you that same motor and gearing i did run on the SP , I had absolute no problems on running on a Nosram.

Thanks for your time and answer
Regards
Michael from denmark

Philipp1990

Hey Jilles,

First: Congratulations to your World Championship Title!

Second: Iīve had a break of 4years and buyed a Tamiya TRF417X last month, build it with your tips from Youtube and the Car runs pretty perfect!

Iīve tested it on 3 different tracks (all carpet) and used a setup from Marc as a basic starting point, because he runīs his 417x almost the same on every track, with small changes.

The Car runs pretty good (17,5T Class and also 10,5T tested) but i found, that the 2,25mm chassis had to much flex, so i bought the 2,5mm Chassis and the 2,25mm topdeck and tested it this weekend on a high/medium carpet track.

It wasnīt that bad, but iīve expected more but at least it wasnīt good testing conditions because a lot of driftcars were on the track and so the track was very dirty and the car was difficult to drive.

Iīve seen that Marc always uses the 2,5mm chassis and Vicktor used both the original one and the thicker chassis in his setup sheets.

So which combination of topdeck and chassis would you basiclly use on carpet?

Because iīve only got one car and it takes so long to change the chassis at every track and build the car properly... Also i would like to know if itīs worth to use the original Tamiya TRF blue O-Rings in the Dampers or the Tamiya X-Rings?

My Setup is down below, maybe you can check and give me a advice? (Note: I didnīt use the lower mount between the motor mount bulkheads!)

THANKS and best regards from Germany!

columbia-mk2

Sorry for the off-topic, i have this charger but iīve never found info about new firmwares.

Do you have to send the charger to the factory? is it possible to do it at home? Where can you find the firmware?

Thanks!

Redko

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Jilles for answering the question on the new shocks..

1 more thing: you mention about the 1mm shim under the motor mount does this means that you put 1mm shim under the bulkheads as well??

JGH

Thanks for your message! Sure you will have no problems with the R10 speedo! Even the software looks similar to other brands, the speedo hardware and software and totally different and many new features!
In the past I have been using the Nosram but the new generation R10 speedo is a whole new world!
On the Orion website there are several speedo set-ups for both stock and modified motors!

Thanks! Euros was really good, we should have won with at least 4 laps, but that's nitro! Try using 1B - 1B in the front, just like we used at the Worlds!
If you have not same bite as others maybe they use other additives as well!

I think the 2.5mm is a good choice for carpet! However I think if you have driftcars on the track as well you might want to use standard 2.25 chassis!
Most of the team always use the blue TRF o-rings in the shocks!
The only thing on your set-up that you should try different is the ackermann shims! I see you use 4mm, in my opinion this is too much! Try 2mm!

Honestly I don't know about any firmware updates for the charger. Is your charger not working properly? What is the problem with your current charger/firmware?

At the Worlds I ran 1mm under the motormount and 0.5mm under the front and rear bulkheads! When mounting the topdeck I used 0.5mm between the bulkheads and the topdeck to compensate the motormount height.
Let me know how this goes for you?

Jilles

columbia-mk2

My charger works flawlessly, and I am really happy with it, but any improvement is wellcome.

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Were may we find some settings for 417x high grip track for 13.5 class.

thanks.

MD

iTrader: (136)

Great forum.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Hi Jilles,

Congrats on your win at the ride cup, I'm looking forward to the release of the new car and running it at TITC 2013! Did you use a similar setup to worlds or a wider setup for the grippy track and traction compound?

Also can you explain the effect of different front and rear wheelbase settings. I know you have said previously that 0.5mm front 3.5mm rear is good for steering, but at RROC Viktor used 1mm/3.5mm and at worlds you used 0.5mm/3mm. I would have thought on a big track you would use a longer wheelbase?

Thanks!