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Old 08-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #1906
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Hi Jilles and Congrates on being World Champion!!!!

Carlos M.
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:39 PM   #1907
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Hi Jilles,

Do you live in Thailand? I think I met you before at a TITC race in BKK at RCS when it was around. I have a house in BKK.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:50 PM   #1908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
His Shocks...it looks like his car had these shock bodies and these caps but the caps on his car were in the light gray TRF low friction plastic not the normal darker plastic....not sure if they offer the shock tops in low friction plastic yet?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42131


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51280

You would probably need this to mount the new shock tops to the shock towers.....his car looked to have some option/proto shock mount???

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51282

Hi Kevin,

I think the shock body is a proto shock body as closer look the top end design of the shock body looks like the buddy shock design..

I might be wrong but please do take a look at the photos again.

Maybe Jilles can answer our questions here??

thanks
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:27 AM   #1909
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Hi Jilles,
Congratulations for the victory at worlds.
Nicolō C.(from Italy)
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:28 PM   #1910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Thanks Jilles, I thought that may be the case

Correct me if I'm wrong but your setup said the shocks were mounted on hole 1, while kiyo said hole 2 - is it a different tower?

Also, if I'm not mistaken, you ran the plastic arms and not the carbon ones, does that just give more grip?

Do you know if the buggy style shocks will be released?

Sorry for all the questions, thanks again "champ"
Craig
Hi Craig, I ran the shocks in the first hole from inside, this was due the narrow susp. blocks. Don't know why Kiyo write second hole. We used new sort plastic which is similar to the carbon arms, it's not the soft plastic arms, they look same! Not sure about the buggy shocks, maybe release later this year!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmomedrano View Post
hi jilles, when changing brands of tires do you setup for the same feel? for example coming from sorex to ride tires? for me, have less traction i tried harder and then softer springs more droop etc but it doesnt have the same feel... should i concentrate on setting it up or just face the fact that it has a lot less traction and drive accordingly? the local racers here have already caught up with sorex tires using ride tires.. i tried some of their set up changes but i still dont like the feel and dont feel fast even when practice racing with other people..
Sure changing to other tyres the car will feel a lot different. Any tyre needs it's own set-up. Some tyres are faster then other tyres and you can't find it in the set-up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
Congratulations Jilles...

What effect did you find going to the XC and C block in the rear of the car? I have liked B blocks on the front of my car, what would changing the rear to XC and C do?
Thanks! For the Worlds we made the car more narrow, which gave more traction especially on old tyres! For hi traction I recommend to use normal XA-E blocks rear and 1C front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peakki View Post
Yeah it works, but you have to remove the low voltage protection completely (with DSBR).
If you have problems removing it, plug it to 2S battery but use the DSBR adapter cable that comes with the 1S ESC. Always have to use the DSBR 1S adapter cable with the 1S version, it doesn't work with the one that comes with 2-3S.

Congrats for Jilles!

Jilles, do you use 100% brake on transmitter and change the max brake force on the ESC only? Does the brake work somehow differently with that compared to 100% brake on esc but 50% on transmitter?
Your 1/12 setup has quite long gearing and lot of boost, did the esc run with reasonable temps?
Usually have used about 30mm gearing and about 10deg boost and some turbo.
On the radio I use about 85% ( I use Sanwa ). On the speedo I had 75% brake. For the 1/12 my speedo temp went up to 80 degree celsius, it's hot but reasonable, I didn't had trouble the whole WC event. Sometimes more boost doesn't give more temp, you must find the right balance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by over gear View Post
Jilles, Congratulations on the win!

i was looking at photos of your car on redrc and notice some shims under the motor mount. What are they for?
Thanks! I used 1mm shims under the motor mount, this gives more chassis roll, so more traction! This usually only works for old tyres or low traction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peter. View Post
Jilles you still use the orion spec twin charger which is compatible with new firmware update or not
I use the twinspec charger, not sure what firmware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stusdal View Post
Hi everyone.

I got a R10 Pro and are planing on running it in 13.5 boosted class. Found this setup by Jilles, but can't find the firmware mentioned there on the orion web page.

Anyone know where i can fint it?

Firmware: V3.0_110729_STOCK (http://teamorion.com/images/product_...p_Jilles_3.pdf)
Stock 729 is the older version, on the Team Orion website you can find the latest 208 stock software ( V1.68 ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by jp_666 View Post
Hi Jilles and Congrates on being World Champion!!!!

Carlos M.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyE View Post
Hi Jilles,

Do you live in Thailand? I think I met you before at a TITC race in BKK at RCS when it was around. I have a house in BKK.
Yes, I live in Thailand. I usually practise at RC Addict and RC City! Maybe see you around!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redko View Post
Hi Kevin,

I think the shock body is a proto shock body as closer look the top end design of the shock body looks like the buddy shock design..

I might be wrong but please do take a look at the photos again.

Maybe Jilles can answer our questions here??

thanks
The buggy shocks are prototype. I think the cap is same as the ones of the Tamiya buggy but the alu shock house isn't the same as the screw thread is different!

Quote:
Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
Hi Jilles,
Congratulations for the victory at worlds.
Nicolō C.(from Italy)
Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:03 PM   #1911
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Hi Jilles, well done again at the euros - if you didn't have the belt issue it looks like you would have another title to your name!

Back to electric, have you got any tips for getting more initial steering. I'm already running sweep (C/B) and antidive at the front but I don't seem to have the same bite that others have
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:35 PM   #1912
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Default R10 1s

Hi Jilles

Contratiolation on the worlds , and also 3 place at the nitro euro , by far the fastest driver/car of all drivers

Thinking of getting a R10 1s speedo , but I have a few questions.
Last year I tried a SP gt2,1 and hade big temp problems. Do you know if the R10 is based on the same electronic/software?? When you look at the manual does the programming guide looks very much the same. I can tell you that same motor and gearing i did run on the SP , I had absolute no problems on running on a Nosram.

Thanks for your time and answer
Regards
Michael from denmark
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:04 AM   #1913
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Hey Jilles,

First: Congratulations to your World Championship Title!

Second: Iīve had a break of 4years and buyed a Tamiya TRF417X last month, build it with your tips from Youtube and the Car runs pretty perfect!

Iīve tested it on 3 different tracks (all carpet) and used a setup from Marc as a basic starting point, because he runīs his 417x almost the same on every track, with small changes.

The Car runs pretty good (17,5T Class and also 10,5T tested) but i found, that the 2,25mm chassis had to much flex, so i bought the 2,5mm Chassis and the 2,25mm topdeck and tested it this weekend on a high/medium carpet track.

It wasnīt that bad, but iīve expected more but at least it wasnīt good testing conditions because a lot of driftcars were on the track and so the track was very dirty and the car was difficult to drive.

Iīve seen that Marc always uses the 2,5mm chassis and Vicktor used both the original one and the thicker chassis in his setup sheets.

So which combination of topdeck and chassis would you basiclly use on carpet?

Because iīve only got one car and it takes so long to change the chassis at every track and build the car properly... Also i would like to know if itīs worth to use the original Tamiya TRF blue O-Rings in the Dampers or the Tamiya X-Rings?

My Setup is down below, maybe you can check and give me a advice? (Note: I didnīt use the lower mount between the motor mount bulkheads!)

THANKS and best regards from Germany!
Attached Thumbnails
"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors-trf417x-phil-carpet-page-001.jpg  

Last edited by Philipp1990; 08-27-2012 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:24 PM   #1914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter. View Post
Jilles you still use the orion spec twin charger which is compatible with new firmware update or not
Sorry for the off-topic, i have this charger but iīve never found info about new firmwares.

Do you have to send the charger to the factory? is it possible to do it at home? Where can you find the firmware?

Thanks!
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:16 AM   #1915
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Thanks Jilles for answering the question on the new shocks..

1 more thing: you mention about the 1mm shim under the motor mount does this means that you put 1mm shim under the bulkheads as well??
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:05 PM   #1916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsen-dk View Post
Hi Jilles

Contratiolation on the worlds , and also 3 place at the nitro euro , by far the fastest driver/car of all drivers

Thinking of getting a R10 1s speedo , but I have a few questions.
Last year I tried a SP gt2,1 and hade big temp problems. Do you know if the R10 is based on the same electronic/software?? When you look at the manual does the programming guide looks very much the same. I can tell you that same motor and gearing i did run on the SP , I had absolute no problems on running on a Nosram.

Thanks for your time and answer
Regards
Michael from denmark
Thanks for your message! Sure you will have no problems with the R10 speedo! Even the software looks similar to other brands, the speedo hardware and software and totally different and many new features!
In the past I have been using the Nosram but the new generation R10 speedo is a whole new world!
On the Orion website there are several speedo set-ups for both stock and modified motors!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Hi Jilles, well done again at the euros - if you didn't have the belt issue it looks like you would have another title to your name!

Back to electric, have you got any tips for getting more initial steering. I'm already running sweep (C/B) and antidive at the front but I don't seem to have the same bite that others have
Thanks! Euros was really good, we should have won with at least 4 laps, but that's nitro! Try using 1B - 1B in the front, just like we used at the Worlds!
If you have not same bite as others maybe they use other additives as well!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipp1990 View Post
Hey Jilles,

First: Congratulations to your World Championship Title!

Second: Iīve had a break of 4years and buyed a Tamiya TRF417X last month, build it with your tips from Youtube and the Car runs pretty perfect!

Iīve tested it on 3 different tracks (all carpet) and used a setup from Marc as a basic starting point, because he runīs his 417x almost the same on every track, with small changes.

The Car runs pretty good (17,5T Class and also 10,5T tested) but i found, that the 2,25mm chassis had to much flex, so i bought the 2,5mm Chassis and the 2,25mm topdeck and tested it this weekend on a high/medium carpet track.

It wasnīt that bad, but iīve expected more but at least it wasnīt good testing conditions because a lot of driftcars were on the track and so the track was very dirty and the car was difficult to drive.

Iīve seen that Marc always uses the 2,5mm chassis and Vicktor used both the original one and the thicker chassis in his setup sheets.

So which combination of topdeck and chassis would you basiclly use on carpet?

Because iīve only got one car and it takes so long to change the chassis at every track and build the car properly... Also i would like to know if itīs worth to use the original Tamiya TRF blue O-Rings in the Dampers or the Tamiya X-Rings?

My Setup is down below, maybe you can check and give me a advice? (Note: I didnīt use the lower mount between the motor mount bulkheads!)

THANKS and best regards from Germany!
I think the 2.5mm is a good choice for carpet! However I think if you have driftcars on the track as well you might want to use standard 2.25 chassis!
Most of the team always use the blue TRF o-rings in the shocks!
The only thing on your set-up that you should try different is the ackermann shims! I see you use 4mm, in my opinion this is too much! Try 2mm!

Quote:
Originally Posted by columbia-mk2 View Post
Sorry for the off-topic, i have this charger but iīve never found info about new firmwares.

Do you have to send the charger to the factory? is it possible to do it at home? Where can you find the firmware?

Thanks!
Honestly I don't know about any firmware updates for the charger. Is your charger not working properly? What is the problem with your current charger/firmware?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redko View Post
Thanks Jilles for answering the question on the new shocks..

1 more thing: you mention about the 1mm shim under the motor mount does this means that you put 1mm shim under the bulkheads as well??
At the Worlds I ran 1mm under the motormount and 0.5mm under the front and rear bulkheads! When mounting the topdeck I used 0.5mm between the bulkheads and the topdeck to compensate the motormount height.
Let me know how this goes for you?

Jilles
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:29 AM   #1917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH View Post
Honestly I don't know about any firmware updates for the charger. Is your charger not working properly? What is the problem with your current charger/firmware?Jilles
My charger works flawlessly, and I am really happy with it, but any improvement is wellcome.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:44 AM   #1918
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Were may we find some settings for 417x high grip track for 13.5 class.

thanks.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:19 AM   #1919
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Great forum.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:31 AM   #1920
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Hi Jilles,

Congrats on your win at the ride cup, I'm looking forward to the release of the new car and running it at TITC 2013! Did you use a similar setup to worlds or a wider setup for the grippy track and traction compound?

Also can you explain the effect of different front and rear wheelbase settings. I know you have said previously that 0.5mm front 3.5mm rear is good for steering, but at RROC Viktor used 1mm/3.5mm and at worlds you used 0.5mm/3mm. I would have thought on a big track you would use a longer wheelbase?

Thanks!
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