"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
05-04-2011, 01:20 AM
#1516
Drag brake
Hi Jilles,
My 417 understeers in mid corners.
Does setting more drag brake gives you more overall steering?
When do you increase and decrease the drag brake?
Thanks!
My 417 understeers in mid corners.
Does setting more drag brake gives you more overall steering?
When do you increase and decrease the drag brake?
Thanks!
05-04-2011, 03:52 AM
#1517
Tech Initiate
Hi, Jilles
I'd like to see how to attach the body shell and wings perfectly. Would you please share some tips in the new video?
My current questions are as below:
1. Hard to find/drill the holes on body and wing accurately;
2. How to cut the body and wing to follow the IFMAR spec perfectly?
3. It is said that the body postion forward or backward about 5mm can show different performance. Is it the key point to notice when attaching the body?
Thank you very much!
I'd like to see how to attach the body shell and wings perfectly. Would you please share some tips in the new video?
My current questions are as below:
1. Hard to find/drill the holes on body and wing accurately;
2. How to cut the body and wing to follow the IFMAR spec perfectly?
3. It is said that the body postion forward or backward about 5mm can show different performance. Is it the key point to notice when attaching the body?
Thank you very much!
05-04-2011, 11:13 AM
#1518
No problem! Zero rebound you can make by pushing the shock rod/piston all the way up and close the shock cap, and even better drill a small hole in the shock cap.
Next month I will be heading home and probably gonna do the ETS race in Holland. At that race I will catch up with the Redrc guys and maybe we can do something similair again with some video.
Question for all racers on this thread, what would you like to see in the video?
What kind of stuff should I explain in the video about the 417 or something about motors, speedo, batteries, radio set-up or charging?
Let me know and I will work on something.
Jilles
Next month I will be heading home and probably gonna do the ETS race in Holland. At that race I will catch up with the Redrc guys and maybe we can do something similair again with some video.
Question for all racers on this thread, what would you like to see in the video?
What kind of stuff should I explain in the video about the 417 or something about motors, speedo, batteries, radio set-up or charging?
Let me know and I will work on something.
Jilles
Good luck at ETS Netherlands!
05-06-2011, 02:37 AM
#1521
Tech Initiate
Toe angle
hi Jilles,
one thing I missed in your videos is how you measure and tune your front toe angle?? .
-is there a cheaper way (that works appropriate) than buying a hudy setup system??
-maybe you show this in your next video
regards, oliver
one thing I missed in your videos is how you measure and tune your front toe angle?? .
-is there a cheaper way (that works appropriate) than buying a hudy setup system??
-maybe you show this in your next video
regards, oliver
05-06-2011, 09:12 AM
#1522
Video
I hope u can make a video on,
1.Radio setup
2.Chassis Balancing
3.Mounting of body shell wing.
Thanks
1.Radio setup
2.Chassis Balancing
3.Mounting of body shell wing.
Thanks
05-06-2011, 02:25 PM
#1523
Jilles,
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
05-06-2011, 03:35 PM
#1524
Jilles,
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
jiles or others coreckt me if im wrong
but that should be right. lol
05-06-2011, 07:14 PM
#1525
Hi Jilles, a couple questions regarding ESCs
When you started this thread you said your settings for the pearl v1 were...
but more recently you used these settings at TITC...
What is the reason for the big difference in power program, is it simply because you've changed motor brands?
Also do you find the top end similar even though profile 5 has more timing? do you just gear up?
And finally, why did you decide to use the v1 rather than the v2? I run one too as I've heard that it is smoother, however I have some events coming up (State Titles and FEMCA race) on tracks with 50m+ straights so I'm wondering if I should get a v2 for these events.
Thanks
Craig
p.s. Will you be attending the FEMCA race in Sydney in September?
When you started this thread you said your settings for the pearl v1 were...
but more recently you used these settings at TITC...
What is the reason for the big difference in power program, is it simply because you've changed motor brands?
Also do you find the top end similar even though profile 5 has more timing? do you just gear up?
And finally, why did you decide to use the v1 rather than the v2? I run one too as I've heard that it is smoother, however I have some events coming up (State Titles and FEMCA race) on tracks with 50m+ straights so I'm wondering if I should get a v2 for these events.
Thanks
Craig
p.s. Will you be attending the FEMCA race in Sydney in September?
I'm not sure about the FEMCA race as the Tamiya Asia Cup finals are the same weekend.
I think it's great you are back on this thread regular
When you say more camber do you mean more + camber like I have in my setup sheet or more negative camber like traditional setup shows, like -1.5/-2?
With the setup I posted I had zero traction roll issues, actually the car was a tad pushy but I was able to finish very well without incident. When I had the cambers at -1.5 front and -2.0 rear I had traction roll problem even with inner links at 5mm and 4mm
Thanks again I appreciate it.
When you say more camber do you mean more + camber like I have in my setup sheet or more negative camber like traditional setup shows, like -1.5/-2?
With the setup I posted I had zero traction roll issues, actually the car was a tad pushy but I was able to finish very well without incident. When I had the cambers at -1.5 front and -2.0 rear I had traction roll problem even with inner links at 5mm and 4mm
Thanks again I appreciate it.
I recommend to use one piece.
I charge 15A while running both stock and modified.
Hello Jilles,
There are so many kinds of tryes techniques.How do you know which works best?Do you test them all everytime you go to a new track?And what if you have a time limit?How do you tackle the best possible situation?
When do you cook the tryes?And when do you not?
There are so many kinds of tryes techniques.How do you know which works best?Do you test them all everytime you go to a new track?And what if you have a time limit?How do you tackle the best possible situation?
When do you cook the tryes?And when do you not?
Cooking tyres is normally when the tyre has not too much traction and have also overheating problems. But if you have time, don't bother too much about set-up, tyres and additives are most important.
Hi Jilles!
First of all Thanks for your time you spend on this thread!
I have a few questions:
.) Can you explain the differences in the handling of the car using the outer/inner chamber link possitions?
.) How would you say differs the setup of the car when you race it in 17,5 0-Boost spec class? Would you say that there are fix points in the setup that you would change in advance compared to your modified setups?
.) I wich range do you use shock oil (from-to) on asphalt and carpet, and if you have a good setup for a track, do you run always the same shock oil in colder and hotter condition or does the track temperatur also affect the oil choice?
.) When you talk about steering full lock, what do you mean exactly? The steering knukle touches the c hub slightly, or do you always use a bit space between? how have you trimmed the dual rate on your sanwa on full steering? 100% or 125% or 150%
Thanks in advance!
Greeitngs Rainer
First of all Thanks for your time you spend on this thread!
I have a few questions:
.) Can you explain the differences in the handling of the car using the outer/inner chamber link possitions?
.) How would you say differs the setup of the car when you race it in 17,5 0-Boost spec class? Would you say that there are fix points in the setup that you would change in advance compared to your modified setups?
.) I wich range do you use shock oil (from-to) on asphalt and carpet, and if you have a good setup for a track, do you run always the same shock oil in colder and hotter condition or does the track temperatur also affect the oil choice?
.) When you talk about steering full lock, what do you mean exactly? The steering knukle touches the c hub slightly, or do you always use a bit space between? how have you trimmed the dual rate on your sanwa on full steering? 100% or 125% or 150%
Thanks in advance!
Greeitngs Rainer
- Inner camberlink pos - has more stability, and cornerspeed, less reaction
- outer camberlink po - less stability, little more steering, more reaction
I think 17.5T you can use harder spring then modified. You might run little harder oil in 17.5T as well. Modified is all about keep the wheels on the ground so with softer set-up you make the car more driveable.
Shock oil on carpet is always around 500W. For asphalt I suggest between 600 - 400, depends on track temp and tyre/asphalt.
When I mean full lock the steeringblock is about 1mm from the c-hub.
Hi, Jilles
I'd like to see how to attach the body shell and wings perfectly. Would you please share some tips in the new video?
My current questions are as below:
1. Hard to find/drill the holes on body and wing accurately;
2. How to cut the body and wing to follow the IFMAR spec perfectly?
3. It is said that the body postion forward or backward about 5mm can show different performance. Is it the key point to notice when attaching the body?
Thank you very much!
I'd like to see how to attach the body shell and wings perfectly. Would you please share some tips in the new video?
My current questions are as below:
1. Hard to find/drill the holes on body and wing accurately;
2. How to cut the body and wing to follow the IFMAR spec perfectly?
3. It is said that the body postion forward or backward about 5mm can show different performance. Is it the key point to notice when attaching the body?
Thank you very much!
2. I always cut within the rules by using a muchmore tool with helps you check the roof height, wing size, wing height etc.
3. I always run my body slightly forward. If you made already a body that ran well, you can always copy the same holes on your new body by placing the old body over the new one and simply use a marker for the bodyposts.
Thanks Jonest!
Jilles,
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
Groet Robert
But in theory, if you raise the arms you should raise the camberlink with the same about of shims. See you in Apeldoorn.
Correct Marcel!
05-06-2011, 10:47 PM
#1526
Good luck for your races
05-06-2011, 10:54 PM
#1527
Also thank you for the reply!!!
05-07-2011, 04:18 AM
#1528
Hi,
Does anybody know where I could get a
Tamiya Lipo chassis for my 416X?
Regards
Does anybody know where I could get a
Tamiya Lipo chassis for my 416X?
Regards
05-07-2011, 09:00 AM
#1529
THX for your feedback, and good luck for your next races...
Will you run the TW Euros in Austria this year?
Greetings Blueman
Will you run the TW Euros in Austria this year?
Greetings Blueman
05-07-2011, 09:20 AM
#1530
I again! :-)
Another few questions:
When you look at the shims under the chamber links in the kit instructions for the 417 are 4mm fornt and 3mm rear. Is this a good balanced starting point for any surface? asphalt and carpet?
When you change things there, how much should you do this, and how does it afect the handling of the car?
What about wheelbase? I never runed anything other than kitsetup in my Tamiyas? Is there also a suggestion for a change?
My problem is that my car is a little lazy in fast sweepers, so other drivers can carry slightly more speed in this sections.
My setupfor asphalt:
HPI sliver with MM 400 oil, no rebound all around
B-C, and XA-E with 0,5mm shims alaround,
1,5 front 2 negative chamber
Front spool, rear spec R Diff with 1000 oil.
Droop is front 5mm rear 4mm (meassured when the car is without tires flat on the setupboard with the gauge under the arms)
5mm front, 5,5 rear ground clearance
Shocktower front one hole inner (from the middle)
Rear in the middle.
Body is an LTC-R
The rest is all kitsetup
Thanks Blueman
Another few questions:
When you look at the shims under the chamber links in the kit instructions for the 417 are 4mm fornt and 3mm rear. Is this a good balanced starting point for any surface? asphalt and carpet?
When you change things there, how much should you do this, and how does it afect the handling of the car?
What about wheelbase? I never runed anything other than kitsetup in my Tamiyas? Is there also a suggestion for a change?
My problem is that my car is a little lazy in fast sweepers, so other drivers can carry slightly more speed in this sections.
My setupfor asphalt:
HPI sliver with MM 400 oil, no rebound all around
B-C, and XA-E with 0,5mm shims alaround,
1,5 front 2 negative chamber
Front spool, rear spec R Diff with 1000 oil.
Droop is front 5mm rear 4mm (meassured when the car is without tires flat on the setupboard with the gauge under the arms)
5mm front, 5,5 rear ground clearance
Shocktower front one hole inner (from the middle)
Rear in the middle.
Body is an LTC-R
The rest is all kitsetup
Thanks Blueman