9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
07-05-2009, 02:47 PM
#1246
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
Photon
WOW Dennis out from the past and now Jason with a photon? what gives all the losi drivers drop there losi r type and hop on TOP. with the photon. And they said that I was crazy when I had the the first top TC Now if only trinity will ship my motors and batts. I can come out and play with you guys!!!!!! Looks like the good old days at E-Town. Jason are you ready!
Later George
Later George
07-05-2009, 03:42 PM
#1247
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Actually Rick, we did both post after we ran the car last weekend at Trains and Lanes.
The car is flat out awesome. It's been a little transition back into a "normal" style touring car layout, chassis wise. Setup items respond a little different, which is what takes a little bit to re-learn from the Type R.
Larry and I literally only have the kit parts to work with setup plus some extra shims. We're still running the kit springs, but have definitely made changes to the overall setup from what EJ used at Reedy and what the manual has as a base.
We haven't really posted much, setup wise, as we're still learning what the car likes. Larry seems to have caught on, setup wise, quicker than I have and it has showed... especially at Blue Diamond. We're really close speed wise, but man... every time we run the car, it just keeps getting better.
This coming weekend is a Cash race at Trains and Lanes, which is a very tight track similar to the Coliseum, but no where near the amount of natural traction from the track. Once we get a more base setup, one of us will post up what we come up with.
I know that anyone who purchases this car will not be disappointed.
The car is flat out awesome. It's been a little transition back into a "normal" style touring car layout, chassis wise. Setup items respond a little different, which is what takes a little bit to re-learn from the Type R.
Larry and I literally only have the kit parts to work with setup plus some extra shims. We're still running the kit springs, but have definitely made changes to the overall setup from what EJ used at Reedy and what the manual has as a base.
We haven't really posted much, setup wise, as we're still learning what the car likes. Larry seems to have caught on, setup wise, quicker than I have and it has showed... especially at Blue Diamond. We're really close speed wise, but man... every time we run the car, it just keeps getting better.
This coming weekend is a Cash race at Trains and Lanes, which is a very tight track similar to the Coliseum, but no where near the amount of natural traction from the track. Once we get a more base setup, one of us will post up what we come up with.
I know that anyone who purchases this car will not be disappointed.
I am old and forgetful at times. That I can remember.
I turned 55 today and my loving wife reminded me that in 15 years I'll be 70.....
07-05-2009, 06:07 PM
#1248
Jason that's unlike you to be after MORE STEERING 
(just had to get that in 
)
Based on my own observations so far (also from running the Scythe - if somebody wants to provide more technical details then feel free to go for it!)
1. Reducing the spacer on the inside front link particularly helps low speed steering.
2. Reducing the spacer on the inside rear link helps with rear traction.
(I needed to do these together)
3. Standing up the shocks in the rear helps with corning traction.
So these changes might help you. Haven't tried the Reedy set ups yet, as I haven't had much time on the car. A couple of guys drove my car and commented on how stable it was but still had good cornering performance.
I'll contradict Craig by saying that I don't think the springs are too heavy - I used to run 22lb in the Scythe at the same track / conditions... 19lb / 17lb seems soft in comparison but works well for me...
If the above doesn't help then you could perhaps swap the springs around and run the stiffer spring on the back. Or drop the roll centres all around by flipping the inserts.
(just had to get that in )Based on my own observations so far (also from running the Scythe - if somebody wants to provide more technical details then feel free to go for it!)
1. Reducing the spacer on the inside front link particularly helps low speed steering.
2. Reducing the spacer on the inside rear link helps with rear traction.
(I needed to do these together)
3. Standing up the shocks in the rear helps with corning traction.
So these changes might help you. Haven't tried the Reedy set ups yet, as I haven't had much time on the car. A couple of guys drove my car and commented on how stable it was but still had good cornering performance.
I'll contradict Craig by saying that I don't think the springs are too heavy - I used to run 22lb in the Scythe at the same track / conditions... 19lb / 17lb seems soft in comparison but works well for me...
If the above doesn't help then you could perhaps swap the springs around and run the stiffer spring on the back. Or drop the roll centres all around by flipping the inserts.
I dunno how you drive your car so stiff Chris! it obviously works for you thoughTo expand a bit, both the spacer changes will raise the respective roll centres. Raising just the front will take away a bit of front grip, but make the car more responsive and with more initial steering, doing the same to the back will free it up a bit more. Doing both as Chris did will make the car sit flatter overall. Making changes on the links also effects the camber change, someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe taking spacers away from the inner links results in more camber change
07-05-2009, 06:27 PM
#1249
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
No matter what car I use or hell for that matter I could be running their car and they run mine and the result is I need to retire as well.
07-05-2009, 06:40 PM
#1250
WOW Dennis out from the past and now Jason with a photon? what gives all the losi drivers drop there losi r type and hop on TOP. with the photon. And they said that I was crazy when I had the the first top TC Now if only trinity will ship my motors and batts. I can come out and play with you guys!!!!!! Looks like the good old days at E-Town. Jason are you ready!
Later George
Later George
07-05-2009, 06:54 PM
#1252
WOW Dennis out from the past and now Jason with a photon? what gives all the losi drivers drop there losi r type and hop on TOP. with the photon. And they said that I was crazy when I had the the first top TC Now if only trinity will ship my motors and batts. I can come out and play with you guys!!!!!! Looks like the good old days at E-Town. Jason are you ready!
Later George
Later George
Hey Bro whats hot you gonna run at trains and lanes this week?
Im hoping to be ready to run it think only think that might hod me up is a speedo but maybe not
07-05-2009, 07:39 PM
#1253
Picked up my rubber Photon from Mark at TZR Thursday.
It's together sans electronics.
My overall review is thumbs up. Easy build.
Below is my step by step review of the build.
I suspect there won't be anything new but it will add points to the graph.
PF = part fit
+ = pass
- = fail
Step 1) PF = +
Step 2) PF = +
Note: The fasteners that secure the drive cups did not come tight when fully seated.
I ? the decision to have the mate between the drive cups to the spool coincident with the bearing race mate surface.
Step 3-6) PF = +
Step 7) PF = -
Note: note says use only TOP or Xenon spur gears. Kit came with a Kimbrough. It took some finesse to get the pulleys installed in the gear
Step 8) PF = +
Note: I threaded the set screws in from the bottom of the assembly. This allows access to its drive end as well as the ball studs. I did this were ever possible.
Step 9) PF = +
Step 10) PF = +
Note: I set the belt tension one turn tighter than neutral and let sit 24hrs then back to neutral, belt tension feels good.
Step 11) PF = +
Step 12) PF = -
Note: Some wings and camber plates were cut with a worn cutter. Fitment issues occurred. None that were insurmountable.
Step 13-14) PF = +
Step 15) PF = +
Note: I'm a fan of bearing spacers.
Step 16-17) PF = +
Step 18) PF = +
Step 19) PF = +
Step 21) PF = +
Step 22) PF = +
Note: I completed these steps in parallel so I could test the fit of the pins in any of the four assembly. I found three (of eight) combinations that did not require any attention. The remainder were massaged with a 3mm mandrel on a drill motor. None were so terribly tight that I considered it unacceptable.
Step 20) PF = +
Step 23) PF = +
Note: Adding C to C or OAL for starting reference in the tip and amendment sheet would be easy and helpful.
(I don’t have a set up station handy. Maybe some one who does could set everything to zero and post the link lengths)
Step 24-35) PF = +
The shocks feel great, very smooth.
Drive train feels great, very smooth.
Now I need to get electronics in it.
Robert
It's together sans electronics.
My overall review is thumbs up. Easy build.
Below is my step by step review of the build.
I suspect there won't be anything new but it will add points to the graph.
PF = part fit
+ = pass
- = fail
Step 1) PF = +
Step 2) PF = +
Note: The fasteners that secure the drive cups did not come tight when fully seated.
I ? the decision to have the mate between the drive cups to the spool coincident with the bearing race mate surface.
Step 3-6) PF = +
Step 7) PF = -
Note: note says use only TOP or Xenon spur gears. Kit came with a Kimbrough. It took some finesse to get the pulleys installed in the gear
Step 8) PF = +
Note: I threaded the set screws in from the bottom of the assembly. This allows access to its drive end as well as the ball studs. I did this were ever possible.
Step 9) PF = +
Step 10) PF = +
Note: I set the belt tension one turn tighter than neutral and let sit 24hrs then back to neutral, belt tension feels good.
Step 11) PF = +
Step 12) PF = -
Note: Some wings and camber plates were cut with a worn cutter. Fitment issues occurred. None that were insurmountable.
Step 13-14) PF = +
Step 15) PF = +
Note: I'm a fan of bearing spacers.
Step 16-17) PF = +
Step 18) PF = +
Step 19) PF = +
Step 21) PF = +
Step 22) PF = +
Note: I completed these steps in parallel so I could test the fit of the pins in any of the four assembly. I found three (of eight) combinations that did not require any attention. The remainder were massaged with a 3mm mandrel on a drill motor. None were so terribly tight that I considered it unacceptable.
Step 20) PF = +
Step 23) PF = +
Note: Adding C to C or OAL for starting reference in the tip and amendment sheet would be easy and helpful.
(I don’t have a set up station handy. Maybe some one who does could set everything to zero and post the link lengths)
Step 24-35) PF = +
The shocks feel great, very smooth.
Drive train feels great, very smooth.
Now I need to get electronics in it.
Robert
07-05-2009, 08:39 PM
#1254
Desperately awaiting shipment #2 ....
07-06-2009, 01:48 AM
#1256
Not sure why you would call that a fail when that same note in the instructions tells you to slightly ream out the holes in the spur gear. If you did that, then the pulleys easily fit into the Kimbrough spur gear perfectly.
07-06-2009, 01:56 AM
#1257
07-06-2009, 05:26 AM
#1258
Tech Elite
iTrader: (171)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 4,362
Trader Rating: 171 (100%+)
Dennis that is holding me up I need batts. motors and speed. I think the speedo is in but not the batts and motors. Trinity is holding me up!!!!!! 
