Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car >

T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree9Likes

T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-09-2012, 06:59 AM
  #8896  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loveeeee, CO
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

To reiterate, if your running a 17.5 motor with NO timing from the ESC than an FDR around 4.0 is going to be way faster than something around 6.0.

If your a beginner than i can see how a low FDR will feel better as a faster car is harder to drive. But if you really want to be fast you need to gear higher for no timing classes. If you went to a national event you would find all the fast drivers in the 3.6 to 3.8 FDR range for 17.5 no esc timing class.

For beginners speed is not something you should ever worry about as it's not what will make you faster. Work on driving and car setup, if you improve at these two things you will drop your lap times. When your top 5 to 20 average lap times are with .1 - .2 then start working on car speed.

Have one of the fast guys at your track drive your car and ask them how it feels. You'll also be amazed at how fast they are with it. This can be a rather eye opening experience.
bkspeedo is offline  
Old 05-09-2012, 09:24 AM
  #8897  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
 
RCFREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
Posts: 2,442
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bkspeedo
To reiterate, if your running a 17.5 motor with NO timing from the ESC than an FDR around 4.0 is going to be way faster than something around 6.0.

If your a beginner than i can see how a low FDR will feel better as a faster car is harder to drive. But if you really want to be fast you need to gear higher for no timing classes. If you went to a national event you would find all the fast drivers in the 3.6 to 3.8 FDR range for 17.5 no esc timing class.

For beginners speed is not something you should ever worry about as it's not what will make you faster. Work on driving and car setup, if you improve at these two things you will drop your lap times. When your top 5 to 20 average lap times are with .1 - .2 then start working on car speed.

Have one of the fast guys at your track drive your car and ask them how it feels. You'll also be amazed at how fast they are with it. This can be a rather eye opening experience.
Where is the "Like" button for this post?
RCFREAK is offline  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:56 PM
  #8898  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Salem
Posts: 999
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bkspeedo
To reiterate, if your running a 17.5 motor with NO timing from the ESC than an FDR around 4.0 is going to be way faster than something around 6.0.

If your a beginner than i can see how a low FDR will feel better as a faster car is harder to drive. But if you really want to be fast you need to gear higher for no timing classes. If you went to a national event you would find all the fast drivers in the 3.6 to 3.8 FDR range for 17.5 no esc timing class.

For beginners speed is not something you should ever worry about as it's not what will make you faster. Work on driving and car setup, if you improve at these two things you will drop your lap times. When your top 5 to 20 average lap times are with .1 - .2 then start working on car speed.

Have one of the fast guys at your track drive your car and ask them how it feels. You'll also be amazed at how fast they are with it. This can be a rather eye opening experience.

I helped a new guy set up his Photon earlier this year. He was saying it just didnt feel right, I took it out and put down faster laps with his than I did with mine!!! Dohhhh!!!
Mr.A Morris is offline  
Old 05-09-2012, 03:12 PM
  #8899  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: sw ohio
Posts: 671
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bkspeedo
To reiterate, if your running a 17.5 motor with NO timing from the ESC than an FDR around 4.0 is going to be way faster than something around 6.0.

If your a beginner than i can see how a low FDR will feel better as a faster car is harder to drive. But if you really want to be fast you need to gear higher for no timing classes. If you went to a national event you would find all the fast drivers in the 3.6 to 3.8 FDR range for 17.5 no esc timing class.

For beginners speed is not something you should ever worry about as it's not what will make you faster. Work on driving and car setup, if you improve at these two things you will drop your lap times. When your top 5 to 20 average lap times are with .1 - .2 then start working on car speed.

Have one of the fast guys at your track drive your car and ask them how it feels. You'll also be amazed at how fast they are with it. This can be a rather eye opening experience.
+1 = like button
bpalmer is offline  
Old 05-09-2012, 06:02 PM
  #8900  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
snoopyrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tunnel Hill GA
Posts: 5,046
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hanulec
Good luck with the crap metal spec-r garbage. I hear good things about the arrowmax products but haven't tried fitting them in a photon. I'm going to look at the reflex shafts although I fear they are made by spec-r (maybe they paid more than $0.1 for metal)
Ouch! And they are not cheap either. I like the look and design of the Spec-R axles. I did not realize the metal was soft. Havent looked through the Arrowmax products yet.
snoopyrc is offline  
Old 05-09-2012, 07:02 PM
  #8901  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
yogii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by macdude
They are talking about final drive. I would not worry about getting into the mid 3 for FDR. If you are getting to max speed on the straight, then you might think about lowering your FDR, but only if you are able to decrease your average lap. I found that driving with a 3.9 or 4.0 ratio was very hard. What I did was run a ballistic 17.5 that has a little more mechanical timing than some other motors. My FDR started at 6.0. What I found is that my average lap was faster with the higher FDR. Don't expect to be ballistically fast down the straight, but I did not have to slow down for the sweeper, which allowed me to carry more speed entering the infield. If I was a little better driver maybe I could have made up for the softness in the infield with a better set up on the car, but overall the extra speed on the straight made almost no difference in lap time.
I think by going back and forth to Tekin Tec support, they have cured my motor issue. Turn out being a setting, know the motor ramps up before it wouldn't. This is the second Tekin SC I own and I can say I love them. I just can't quite get them figured out. But Tekin Tec support helps you through the diagnoses. For the track I run on i don't need a lot of top end. Just have full motor ramp up. My gears that I'm using are 64P 31T pinion & 108T spur. That's what I was running before I got glitch in system. That gives me final drive 6.97, I might have to adjust a little ones on track.
Thank You all for your help
yogii is offline  
Old 05-10-2012, 07:50 PM
  #8902  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
gruman28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 786
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Hoping to get some set up help for my photon ...

Outdoor parking lot racing just started up and ran my first race this past weekend. The track is your typical parking lot with grape soda sprayed down for traction. So needless to say the traction is very low.

I ran the car all last season and the car was great. When I went out this season with basically the same set up I couldn't keep the rear from sliding out. It was almost drifting around every turn.

Here's my set up:
32 Sweep EXP
Stock springs (what ever came in the kit), 40wt oil, Front shock hole 3, laid the rear shocks all the way down to try to get more traction

Rear- 3 degrees toe in, -2 degrees camber, gear diff
Front- 1 degree toe out, - 1 degrees camber, spool
20t brushed motor, 6.8 fdr, (spec for the class)

Going through the car the only thing I found was that the rear diff was loose and leaking. I rebuilt the diff and it was much tighter. Rebuilding the shocks tomorrow.

Any advice would sure be appreciated,

Thanks
Chris
gruman28 is offline  
Old 05-10-2012, 09:37 PM
  #8903  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loveeeee, CO
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gruman28
Hoping to get some set up help for my photon ...

Outdoor parking lot racing just started up and ran my first race this past weekend. The track is your typical parking lot with grape soda sprayed down for traction. So needless to say the traction is very low.

I ran the car all last season and the car was great. When I went out this season with basically the same set up I couldn't keep the rear from sliding out. It was almost drifting around every turn.

Here's my set up:
32 Sweep EXP
Stock springs (what ever came in the kit), 40wt oil, Front shock hole 3, laid the rear shocks all the way down to try to get more traction

Rear- 3 degrees toe in, -2 degrees camber, gear diff
Front- 1 degree toe out, - 1 degrees camber, spool
20t brushed motor, 6.8 fdr, (spec for the class)

Going through the car the only thing I found was that the rear diff was loose and leaking. I rebuilt the diff and it was much tighter. Rebuilding the shocks tomorrow.

Any advice would sure be appreciated,

Thanks
Chris
Give this a try. I raced this setup on similar conditions last weekend and it was pretty good. I'm sure mods could be made to make it faster but the car is very easy to drive. I was the fastest car the track, won all 3 quals and main by more than a lap.
Attached Files
bkspeedo is offline  
Old 05-11-2012, 07:24 AM
  #8904  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
gruman28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 786
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Thanks,

I will try it. Also I took off my sway bars. Wonder if they would make a difference?

Chris
gruman28 is offline  
Old 05-11-2012, 07:36 AM
  #8905  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
macdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 968
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bkspeedo
Give this a try. I raced this setup on similar conditions last weekend and it was pretty good. I'm sure mods could be made to make it faster but the car is very easy to drive. I was the fastest car the track, won all 3 quals and main by more than a lap.
Just curious what motor you were running, and the endbell timing.
macdude is offline  
Old 05-11-2012, 09:42 AM
  #8906  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loveeeee, CO
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by macdude
Just curious what motor you were running, and the endbell timing.
Thunder Power with the blue rotor, timed at 35.
bkspeedo is offline  
Old 05-11-2012, 07:48 PM
  #8907  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hagerstown, MD
Posts: 1,699
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gruman28
Thanks,

I will try it. Also I took off my sway bars. Wonder if they would make a difference?

Chris
Hey Chris, last year at the outdoor asphalt nats, i was running my photon and tried without sway bars, it like the bars alot better, without them it can be gripping too much causing the car to wash out in the turns. Ill be at Glen Burnie tomorrow with Ed, you should be able to find me if you need any other help, its no problem at all.
COLD AS ICE is offline  
Old 05-11-2012, 08:40 PM
  #8908  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
bkspeedo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loveeeee, CO
Posts: 3,149
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gruman28
Thanks,

I will try it. Also I took off my sway bars. Wonder if they would make a difference?

Chris
I think sway-bars make the car feel smoother through the turns which makes for a more consistent driving experience.

If you like a really an aggressive car than run without sway-bars.
bkspeedo is offline  
Old 05-12-2012, 05:36 AM
  #8909  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
gruman28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 786
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I took the sway bars off after reading a few posts that people weren't running them. At the Coliseum (high grip asphalt) the car was good and I won GT3 with it. But at GB (low grip) the car was not settled. I put them back on and I will see how the car runs. Last year, with a out of the box setup all was good.

I am hoping between rebuilding the rear diff (which was very loose), rebuilding the shocks and double checking all the set up, I should be better.

Thanks
Chris
gruman28 is offline  
Old 05-12-2012, 10:20 PM
  #8910  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 10,278
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

dam - my photon was great today at Jackson RC on Solaris Hards. wow!

now i just got to get my EX working that good (we're working on it...)
hanulec is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.