T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#7757
#7760
Tech Rookie
hi hanulec,
thanks for the grats. It was an great Weekend and I`m very happy about my Position. I hope next time it will be a little bit better
Michael
thanks for the grats. It was an great Weekend and I`m very happy about my Position. I hope next time it will be a little bit better
Michael
#7761
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
It would be great if you could share your setup. That track looks very nice. I have a editable setup sheet at http://www.racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon#Setups
#7762
Tech Rookie
Last edited by mspiering; 07-01-2011 at 03:39 AM.
#7764
Tech Rookie
Hi Michael and others,
I'm the guy next to you at the ETS. Thanks for the support last weekend, my car was going great after some changes. Biggest change I made was lowering the rollcenter.
Last year I ran the 6cell chassis (older photon) and that car made me clubchampion, but this year I builded a total new car with al the options I think are best. Since then I had some major car handling problems and until last weekend I didn't know what was the problem.
One problem Michael found out, was a total wrong shock setup. Springs were to hard, oil too thick.... Changed all that and the car was easier to drive but still laptimes were rubbish.
Then I thought, I've build the car so it's technical at it's best (lowered COG, rotating mass lowered, lightened the unsprung weight etc), but I drove with about the same setup as last year, but this year it didn't worked at all some how. Then I thought, well, if I lower the COG, the car bodyrolls less with the same RC position. So I tried the lowest RC position and immediately lap times were 5-6 tenths faster. This is a huge step in the right direction. Then I raised the ridehight for even more roll and again I won about 1-2 tenth's.
next thing to try is even lighter shock oil because the light unsprung weight doesn't need the demping the original supspension needs. And like this I will try more stuff related to the new build car.
The point I want to make is that I didn't knew that the COG, RC and unsprung weight would make that big of changes to the setup of the car. If it is really faster I can only see after more setup changes because I now know that I've just been started in the right direction. Does anybody else has this kind of experience with these points?
Michael, what happend to the last 2 finals? The car looked like it was harder to drive that the qualifications and first final?
btw, does anyone know witch univesal shafts will fit the photon? the aluminium bones are gone in a few day's and the steel outdrive is to heavy. I'm looking for springsteel or titanium ones,but I don't know from what other car will fit (I run with blades). probably TCX or so?
Thanks, Danny
I'm the guy next to you at the ETS. Thanks for the support last weekend, my car was going great after some changes. Biggest change I made was lowering the rollcenter.
Last year I ran the 6cell chassis (older photon) and that car made me clubchampion, but this year I builded a total new car with al the options I think are best. Since then I had some major car handling problems and until last weekend I didn't know what was the problem.
One problem Michael found out, was a total wrong shock setup. Springs were to hard, oil too thick.... Changed all that and the car was easier to drive but still laptimes were rubbish.
Then I thought, I've build the car so it's technical at it's best (lowered COG, rotating mass lowered, lightened the unsprung weight etc), but I drove with about the same setup as last year, but this year it didn't worked at all some how. Then I thought, well, if I lower the COG, the car bodyrolls less with the same RC position. So I tried the lowest RC position and immediately lap times were 5-6 tenths faster. This is a huge step in the right direction. Then I raised the ridehight for even more roll and again I won about 1-2 tenth's.
next thing to try is even lighter shock oil because the light unsprung weight doesn't need the demping the original supspension needs. And like this I will try more stuff related to the new build car.
The point I want to make is that I didn't knew that the COG, RC and unsprung weight would make that big of changes to the setup of the car. If it is really faster I can only see after more setup changes because I now know that I've just been started in the right direction. Does anybody else has this kind of experience with these points?
Michael, what happend to the last 2 finals? The car looked like it was harder to drive that the qualifications and first final?
btw, does anyone know witch univesal shafts will fit the photon? the aluminium bones are gone in a few day's and the steel outdrive is to heavy. I'm looking for springsteel or titanium ones,but I don't know from what other car will fit (I run with blades). probably TCX or so?
Thanks, Danny
Last edited by koney; 06-16-2011 at 11:26 AM.
#7765
Tech Rookie
Hi Danny,
nice to see you here.
The car was ok as the qualifying and also in the final. But i think i have made some setup changes wrong. The changes of setup does not (longer camberlinks and more droop) work with my driving style
And the other guys didnīt make mistakes.
Your issue with laptime can come from the chassis. I think the 6 Cell Chassis has more flex. And with the LiPo chassis you have to make an other setup than the 6 cell chassis.
Michael
nice to see you here.
The car was ok as the qualifying and also in the final. But i think i have made some setup changes wrong. The changes of setup does not (longer camberlinks and more droop) work with my driving style
And the other guys didnīt make mistakes.
Your issue with laptime can come from the chassis. I think the 6 Cell Chassis has more flex. And with the LiPo chassis you have to make an other setup than the 6 cell chassis.
Michael
#7766
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
Hi Danny -
For drive axle improvements I'd recommend my Mira Outdrives along with XRay bones - spring steel cvds or ECS drive shafts. Check them out --
WWW.sidepieceracing.com
Mike
For drive axle improvements I'd recommend my Mira Outdrives along with XRay bones - spring steel cvds or ECS drive shafts. Check them out --
WWW.sidepieceracing.com
Mike
#7767
Tech Elite
iTrader: (120)
btw, does anyone know witch univesal shafts will fit the photon? the aluminium bones are gone in a few day's and the steel outdrive is to heavy. I'm looking for springsteel or titanium ones,but I don't know from what other car will fit (I run with blades). probably TCX or so?
Thanks, Danny
Thanks, Danny
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Titanium-...item3a4937ffc0
#7768
Set-up
I just got my narrow chassie, can anybody direct me to a set-up? We are running on asphalt, medium traction. I'm running 17.5 non-boost, I've been running the old 6 cell chassie. Can't wait to put it together. We have an 80 foot straight away and technical in field. Thanks, all help would be cool. Wayne
#7769
Reedy Setup
Attached is my 2011 Reedy Setup. It's quite a bit different from my 2010 setup. I would imagine 80% of the tracks the 2010 setup would be better off.
The first day of the Reedy I used my 2010 setup and it worked fairly well. My lap times were decent and on pace. However as the grip came up my lap times stayed the same and everyone went faster. After feeling other racers cars, I concluded my car was under sprung and under dampened for the high grip level.
Lap times were a touch faster and the car was much easier to drive. It also finished the turn a lot better than my previous setup. I just needed to drive better.. LOL
Some things to note on the setup:
- 1.0mm 3 hole pistons
- 1.0mm hole drilled in the top of the shock cap
- After filling the shock, I seal the bladder with the piston all the way down. Due to the hole in the cap there is no rebound in the shock.
- Outside shock hole on the front arm
- 367 front and 324 rear
- Neg 2.5 Camber on the setup gauge, about Neg 1.5 on the wheel.
- Outside hole on rear hub
Anyway give it a shot. Part of the fun of racing is trying different things!
The first day of the Reedy I used my 2010 setup and it worked fairly well. My lap times were decent and on pace. However as the grip came up my lap times stayed the same and everyone went faster. After feeling other racers cars, I concluded my car was under sprung and under dampened for the high grip level.
Lap times were a touch faster and the car was much easier to drive. It also finished the turn a lot better than my previous setup. I just needed to drive better.. LOL
Some things to note on the setup:
- 1.0mm 3 hole pistons
- 1.0mm hole drilled in the top of the shock cap
- After filling the shock, I seal the bladder with the piston all the way down. Due to the hole in the cap there is no rebound in the shock.
- Outside shock hole on the front arm
- 367 front and 324 rear
- Neg 2.5 Camber on the setup gauge, about Neg 1.5 on the wheel.
- Outside hole on rear hub
Anyway give it a shot. Part of the fun of racing is trying different things!
#7770
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Attached is my 2011 Reedy Setup. It's quite a bit different from my 2010 setup. I would imagine 80% of the tracks the 2010 setup would be better off.
The first day of the Reedy I used my 2010 setup and it worked fairly well. My lap times were decent and on pace. However as the grip came up my lap times stayed the same and everyone went faster. After feeling other racers cars, I concluded my car was under sprung and under dampened for the high grip level.
Lap times were a touch faster and the car was much easier to drive. It also finished the turn a lot better than my previous setup. I just needed to drive better.. LOL
Some things to note on the setup:
- 1.0mm 3 hole pistons
- 1.0mm hole drilled in the top of the shock cap
- After filling the shock, I seal the bladder with the piston all the way down. Due to the hole in the cap there is no rebound in the shock.
- Outside shock hole on the front arm
- 367 front and 324 rear
- Neg 2.5 Camber on the setup gauge, about Neg 1.5 on the wheel.
- Outside hole on rear hub
Anyway give it a shot. Part of the fun of racing is trying different things!
The first day of the Reedy I used my 2010 setup and it worked fairly well. My lap times were decent and on pace. However as the grip came up my lap times stayed the same and everyone went faster. After feeling other racers cars, I concluded my car was under sprung and under dampened for the high grip level.
Lap times were a touch faster and the car was much easier to drive. It also finished the turn a lot better than my previous setup. I just needed to drive better.. LOL
Some things to note on the setup:
- 1.0mm 3 hole pistons
- 1.0mm hole drilled in the top of the shock cap
- After filling the shock, I seal the bladder with the piston all the way down. Due to the hole in the cap there is no rebound in the shock.
- Outside shock hole on the front arm
- 367 front and 324 rear
- Neg 2.5 Camber on the setup gauge, about Neg 1.5 on the wheel.
- Outside hole on rear hub
Anyway give it a shot. Part of the fun of racing is trying different things!