9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
12-02-2010, 04:11 PM
#6451
Ah thats my bad... i meant the spur gear pullies. 
Mine were warped like they pulled them from the mold early and were a PITA to get a spur gear on. The aluminum pullies went together beautifully, and i didnt have to ream the spur gear for assembly.
The plastic spool parts are just fine for me. I like the plastic cups. They dont eat up my steel pins, so its easy to slip on some blades and drop in a ball diff for quick changes.
Mine were warped like they pulled them from the mold early and were a PITA to get a spur gear on. The aluminum pullies went together beautifully, and i didnt have to ream the spur gear for assembly.
The plastic spool parts are just fine for me. I like the plastic cups. They dont eat up my steel pins, so its easy to slip on some blades and drop in a ball diff for quick changes.
12-02-2010, 04:31 PM
#6452
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Springs for tuning, and get the aluminum spur gear pulleys. Sorry, but the plastic ones in the kit are crap. I would also buy a variety of the small and large pattern spacers/shims, and the cone washers. You will use them for suspension tuning and shimming out the stock battery brace.
Speaking of which, you need 20mm screws for the rear most suspension mounts, and 18mm screws for the rest of the suspension mounts if youre gonna widen the car out to spec. Otherwise you will only have like 1mm of thread in the bulkheads with the stock screws. Thats spells trouble.
It also comes with a ball diff and a spool... so you may need to purchase a separate diff for the front... depending on your use.
For those that dont know... the stock balls for the diffs are NOT carbide or ceramic. If you plan on runnin some power... the stock diff balls wont last. My front diff was gritty after one run with an 8.5.
Im a little picky when it comes to my cars, so i dropped an extra $150 for parts on top of my kit cost. After 2 weeks... im still spending. You can run the car fine without the added expense... but there IS room for improvement out of the box. Conversely, im glad i didnt buy another XRAY.
As far as durability goes... its fairly strong. Its weak points are the rear hubs and the steering rack... as previously mentioned. In the past two weeks i have logged over 600 laps and broken one rear hub and the steering rack.
I have run the car waaay loose and reallly tight... both ends of the spectrum to find its capabilities... so it has hit a few boards, and traction rolled (just came off the track comin into the sweeper) and hit a concrete wall.
Speaking of which, you need 20mm screws for the rear most suspension mounts, and 18mm screws for the rest of the suspension mounts if youre gonna widen the car out to spec. Otherwise you will only have like 1mm of thread in the bulkheads with the stock screws. Thats spells trouble.
It also comes with a ball diff and a spool... so you may need to purchase a separate diff for the front... depending on your use.
For those that dont know... the stock balls for the diffs are NOT carbide or ceramic. If you plan on runnin some power... the stock diff balls wont last. My front diff was gritty after one run with an 8.5.
Im a little picky when it comes to my cars, so i dropped an extra $150 for parts on top of my kit cost. After 2 weeks... im still spending. You can run the car fine without the added expense... but there IS room for improvement out of the box. Conversely, im glad i didnt buy another XRAY.
As far as durability goes... its fairly strong. Its weak points are the rear hubs and the steering rack... as previously mentioned. In the past two weeks i have logged over 600 laps and broken one rear hub and the steering rack.
I have run the car waaay loose and reallly tight... both ends of the spectrum to find its capabilities... so it has hit a few boards, and traction rolled (just came off the track comin into the sweeper) and hit a concrete wall.
12-02-2010, 04:36 PM
#6453
Ah thats my bad... i meant the spur gear pullies.
Mine were warped like they pulled them from the mold early and were a PITA to get a spur gear on. The aluminum pullies went together beautifully, and i didnt have to ream the spur gear for assembly.
The plastic spool parts are just fine for me. I like the plastic cups. They dont eat up my steel pins, so its easy to slip on some blades and drop in a ball diff for quick changes.
Mine were warped like they pulled them from the mold early and were a PITA to get a spur gear on. The aluminum pullies went together beautifully, and i didnt have to ream the spur gear for assembly.
The plastic spool parts are just fine for me. I like the plastic cups. They dont eat up my steel pins, so its easy to slip on some blades and drop in a ball diff for quick changes.
As for the plastic spool outdrives if you run them you'd better keep a real close eye on them. If they get notched from the dog bones they will make the car do weird things on the track.
12-02-2010, 04:48 PM
#6454
While the Alum. Spur pulleys are nice I would never run them because they add unnecessary weight to the drive train.
As for the plastic spool outdrives if you run them you'd better keep a real close eye on them. If they get notched from the dog bones they will make the car do weird things on the track.
As for the plastic spool outdrives if you run them you'd better keep a real close eye on them. If they get notched from the dog bones they will make the car do weird things on the track.
Agreed on the plastic spool cups. Worn and notched cups can prevent/resist suspension compression or rebound.
Im sure if i settle on running a front spool i will use the steel spool cups... but for me just getting to know the car and making as many changes as i am to do so... i like knowing the dogbone pins arent being ate up by steel spool cups.
12-02-2010, 04:52 PM
#6455
Alloy center pulley
I have the allow center pulley and it is wearing out fast. The kit plastic center pulley are crap. There was some posts further back that mention using Sakura's centre pulley. Anyone had any success with it?
12-02-2010, 05:33 PM
#6458
Hi guys, I was planning on going to Snowbirds and was wondering when the oval cars were coming out ? I'm trying oval for the first time and am looking for a car to buy .
12-02-2010, 05:50 PM
#6461
Mine too required some shims to take out the side to side play but did not like the stack of shims and replaced it with a single slightly thinned down Tamiya axle shaft crush tubes. A single spacer is better then a stack of shims from maintenance perspective.
12-02-2010, 05:56 PM
#6462
The problem is the belts will chew up aluminium pulleys.
12-02-2010, 06:05 PM
#6463
[QUOTE=old-man;8290095]It is wearing out the 20T pulley(silver color part) which I believe they were not hard coated or even anodized. The tooths no longer have square edges. And the toothed part of the belts are turning black in color. Typical signs of the belt chewing up the pulley.
mine are doing the same thing,(on my second pulley set now) im going to try the low friction belts & fit a new pulley to see it it makes any difference hoping it will last a little longer if not i may go back to the to the plastic ones
but its still a great car
mine are doing the same thing,(on my second pulley set now) im going to try the low friction belts & fit a new pulley to see it it makes any difference hoping it will last a little longer if not i may go back to the to the plastic ones
but its still a great car
12-03-2010, 02:08 AM
#6465
Haven't tried one myself, but I reckon they would be a good option for people struggling with the plastic pulleys.