9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
11-19-2009, 02:26 PM
#2836
Hi guys.
This weekend i was out racing, it was a great weekend with good racing, but i had a little problem, i had way too much grip, there were finals from A to E in the 17.5 rubber class, with 3 photons i the A-main and 2 in the B-main.
It was a photon that won
, and became second, i was 6th, i copyed my set-up so it was like the winning car, used the same addhesive (the same bottle), and we race on control tyres.
I had grip roll problems, the two others didnt, the car was slow because of to much grip, we all run the rubber chassis, all stock from the box.
I have been thinking that my chassis is too soft?
Have you heard of such a problem??
And what chassis to bye for rubber carpet racing on medium grip tracks?
This weekend i was out racing, it was a great weekend with good racing, but i had a little problem, i had way too much grip, there were finals from A to E in the 17.5 rubber class, with 3 photons i the A-main and 2 in the B-main.
It was a photon that won
, and became second, i was 6th, i copyed my set-up so it was like the winning car, used the same addhesive (the same bottle), and we race on control tyres.I had grip roll problems, the two others didnt, the car was slow because of to much grip, we all run the rubber chassis, all stock from the box.
I have been thinking that my chassis is too soft?
Have you heard of such a problem??
And what chassis to bye for rubber carpet racing on medium grip tracks?
11-19-2009, 02:36 PM
#2837
Tech Master
I have a rubber spec and I don't have grip roll.
Play with your setup. Change your roll center.
put some glue on the side of the front tires.
Play with your setup. Change your roll center.
put some glue on the side of the front tires.
11-19-2009, 04:56 PM
#2841
11-19-2009, 05:01 PM
#2842
11-20-2009, 05:43 AM
#2844
i did this just coz i was bored
yeah its just mounted with tape and shoe goo. i did have a couple of hits at racing and it stayed in place fine, it did not move at all. i let the shoe goo dry for 24 hours so this did help to keep it in place better.
i would of liked to use at least 1 servo mount but the chassis is too narrow to put one on. could possibly be able to use a 416 servo mount that goes over the belt.
to be honest i felt no difference running the servo like this. i have more room for the electronics thats all.
11-20-2009, 06:55 AM
#2845
Tech Master
sorry for the late reply.
i did this just coz i was bored
yeah its just mounted with tape and shoe goo. i did have a couple of hits at racing and it stayed in place fine, it did not move at all. i let the shoe goo dry for 24 hours so this did help to keep it in place better.
i would of liked to use at least 1 servo mount but the chassis is too narrow to put one on. could possibly be able to use a 416 servo mount that goes over the belt.
to be honest i felt no difference running the servo like this. i have more room for the electronics thats all.
i did this just coz i was bored
yeah its just mounted with tape and shoe goo. i did have a couple of hits at racing and it stayed in place fine, it did not move at all. i let the shoe goo dry for 24 hours so this did help to keep it in place better.
i would of liked to use at least 1 servo mount but the chassis is too narrow to put one on. could possibly be able to use a 416 servo mount that goes over the belt.
to be honest i felt no difference running the servo like this. i have more room for the electronics thats all.
I mounted it yesterday like that and I got a lot of space for the electronics.
I changed it back because I was not shore that it would stay in place.
I have in 3 weeks a race and because this weekend will be my first runs on the new layout so I have set everything that I new was working well.
But it looked good. I'm going to see to make a carbon plate mounted on the bottom plate with servo mounts on it. Than I now for shore it will stay in place.
Now I'm looking for a strong 1:12 servo. This fits to and will create more space and a lower weight.
Does any one now a good 1:12 servo with enough speed and power?
11-20-2009, 10:26 AM
#2846
Ok thanks.
I mounted it yesterday like that and I got a lot of space for the electronics.
I changed it back because I was not shore that it would stay in place.
I have in 3 weeks a race and because this weekend will be my first runs on the new layout so I have set everything that I new was working well.
But it looked good. I'm going to see to make a carbon plate mounted on the bottom plate with servo mounts on it. Than I now for shore it will stay in place.
Now I'm looking for a strong 1:12 servo. This fits to and will create more space and a lower weight.
Does any one now a good 1:12 servo with enough speed and power?
I mounted it yesterday like that and I got a lot of space for the electronics.
I changed it back because I was not shore that it would stay in place.
I have in 3 weeks a race and because this weekend will be my first runs on the new layout so I have set everything that I new was working well.
But it looked good. I'm going to see to make a carbon plate mounted on the bottom plate with servo mounts on it. Than I now for shore it will stay in place.
Now I'm looking for a strong 1:12 servo. This fits to and will create more space and a lower weight.
Does any one now a good 1:12 servo with enough speed and power?
11-20-2009, 11:08 AM
#2847
Tech Master
KO 951, 108oz of torque! All the other 1/12th servos have only half (or less) this much. I have used this servo and it worked great. The only problem I had is with the mounting ears, since the servo and ears are so much smaller than a full sized servo the servo would move in a hard impact. Better mounting could solve this, but I haven't tried anything yet
I use duel sided tape This keeps the steering servo together with the servo mount's better on his place.
11-20-2009, 07:03 PM
#2848
KO 951, 108oz of torque! All the other 1/12th servos have only half (or less) this much. I have used this servo and it worked great. The only problem I had is with the mounting ears, since the servo and ears are so much smaller than a full sized servo the servo would move in a hard impact. Better mounting could solve this, but I haven't tried anything yet
11-20-2009, 07:46 PM
#2849
11-21-2009, 04:11 PM
#2850
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Hey Guys,
I ran the KO 951 at the Reedy Race this year and it works/drives great. No problems with the ears or mounting but I will tell you that I don't suggest to use it on a board type track. If you are hitting walls (even with a servo saver) it can break the "boss" for one of the gear pins inside of the case. I've asked KO to make a version of this servo with a brass insert like their other servos to test but as far as I know they haven't made one yet (too many other projects at the moment).
The forward set of holes on the chassis are for this servo. This is also why the bell crank was designed at that height so it would clear that servo and provide tons of room. I thought that servo would be the future of TC if they can make the case/gear train hold up...
Vincent may have been testing the other chassis I drew up - I ran a test version at the ROAR Nats and liked it. You have to keep in mind that by machining the graphite on only one side it can cause the chassis to bow in the direction from the material relieved. Also, it's really hard to make the chassis flex equal in both ways like this and be consistant from chassis to chassis. We are testing an updated version of the Lipo chassis so hopefully it will be sorted and in production soon.
Also, for those talking about the motor/battery position vs. the T3 - The Photon already had the motor on-center further than any other car on the market when it came out. The Xray motor was 2.5mm further from center than the Photon. If they moved their motor further to the center by 3mm then they now have us by just .5mm....
Later!
I ran the KO 951 at the Reedy Race this year and it works/drives great. No problems with the ears or mounting but I will tell you that I don't suggest to use it on a board type track. If you are hitting walls (even with a servo saver) it can break the "boss" for one of the gear pins inside of the case. I've asked KO to make a version of this servo with a brass insert like their other servos to test but as far as I know they haven't made one yet (too many other projects at the moment).
The forward set of holes on the chassis are for this servo. This is also why the bell crank was designed at that height so it would clear that servo and provide tons of room. I thought that servo would be the future of TC if they can make the case/gear train hold up...
Vincent may have been testing the other chassis I drew up - I ran a test version at the ROAR Nats and liked it. You have to keep in mind that by machining the graphite on only one side it can cause the chassis to bow in the direction from the material relieved. Also, it's really hard to make the chassis flex equal in both ways like this and be consistant from chassis to chassis. We are testing an updated version of the Lipo chassis so hopefully it will be sorted and in production soon.
Also, for those talking about the motor/battery position vs. the T3 - The Photon already had the motor on-center further than any other car on the market when it came out. The Xray motor was 2.5mm further from center than the Photon. If they moved their motor further to the center by 3mm then they now have us by just .5mm....
Later!