kschu

iTrader: (16)

hi mate, is it your race is control tyres? sometimes i did notice using front block 42 + 42 create too more roll in front/traction thus making the rear will loose faster especially with old tyres..

if your not running control tyres, then maybe u can go for 36R tyres? or else u might need to change your setup due to the car loosing out during hot temp.

i saw u running 5000 oil at rear geardiff? share some comment bout it pls...the maximum oil i run at rear is 2000...never try 5000 tho...

kschu

iTrader: (16)

hi mate, maybe u can change something in your setup when heat build up on thetrack..like reducing the punch of your car as too much punch in hot temp will cause tyre spining alot and even make the car bcome very loose.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Just looked at your setup. Are you really saucing full front? I usually sauce about 1/2 front on my BD5. Have you temped your tires right after a heat? A couple of things I'd do right away: raise the front roll center, lengthen front wheel base, go to 1000 diff fluid. JMO, worth a try??

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

A few things I would try. Try the Yokomo springs again, always found these easier to drive in the heat and same lap times as HPI. Try Green/Pink or even Pink/Blue. Try arm sweep (43.5 FF block) working well for us atm down under, and test some lighter oil in your gear diff, try 2000 instead of 5000

HTH.

luic

Thanks at lot for all responses guys, Jaco Blues are control tyre so i don´t can change.

Normally i use yokomo DOT 2 -3 (800-1000 wt) in rear diff, with good diff feeling, but when got hot, the retention diff effect are litle or nothing, i tested some greases, and 5000 with 60ºC in track are similar effect to ~1500-2000, the diff are before the heat at 35-40ºC room temperature.
I know, this effect change with diferent brands of oils, some are thicks, others thines.
In this track, with 42 front blocks i are 0.2 faster, i have to test arm sweep, and yokomo springs, take note.

Max temp of tyres, after heat, are 62-63ºC.

With lighter shock oil (30), i feeling more traction, but more degradation.

The car go very neutral, and easy to drive, even it not have enough grip, but i can not drive too fast.
Videos of final A: http://www.rcelectrico.es/videos/cam...-elche-final-a my car is number 1, Blue-Orange, in first final i use new tyres, in 2º final my tires go off, i don´t know why, (this tyres are from first heat), in 3º final, very bad luck and litle nervous. (we only have 3 set of tyres for all race, 2 in heats and another 1 in finals.)

Greetings, Luis C.

defcone

iTrader: (15)

Did other cars slow down in laptimes as well?

fastolfart

luic
My tip is to try running the standard 40.5 or 41.5 rear arms.
The 39.5 arms are really for foam tyres or extreme grip.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i test 40.5mm and 41.5, it's gv the car slightly understeer...

luic

Yes, Defcone, all cars slow down in terms of time, but i slow down a litle more compare with fastes guys, i need a litle change, when temp raise and tyres are used, (2nd -3nd battery), slow down litle less.
Today go to track, to test some things, take note all your tips, and test, but today is not than hot, with other day, 20º at 9:00.

Thanks, Luis C.

VintageFrog1

iTrader: (40)

Does anyone know the difference between the following parts:

BD-671

BD-630


Cheers

defcone

iTrader: (15)

the 671 is a oneway whereas the 630 isnt.

jonp

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=R.Völker;8923922]yes you should remove a bit material of the c-hubs (by knife is fine). plastic c-hubs dont break so easy compared to the graphite ones, so in case there is a track where you break a lot graphite c-hubs, you should switch to plastic.

Ronald,

Do the Low Vabration Front Universals really help in driving consistency? I was told that the car will understeer once the Front Low Vibrations CVDs are installed?

Also, does the Spec-r CVD last long?

Hope you could PM me for my querries.

I recently bought the Spec-r but I'm not sure if I'm going to onstall them.

Thanks

kschu

iTrader: (16)

[QUOTE=jonp;8976972]do u mean specr double joint? If yes, u might need to change the pin to xray 1.5mm if u wan more durability from it. U also need to enlarge the c-hub hole Alittle to prevent any binding during Cornering....it will smoother out ur car in Cornering due to no chattering.

Nico'

I bought Spec R double articulation drive shafts too but I have some problems:
- the hole in the the axle is not enough wide for 1.5mm pin
- drive shafts arrived with 3mm bearings but if I use these bearings, there is a play between bearing and pin.

So what to do please?

altreyx

I can be wrong but try the ball diff at rear. If you loose your car with the gear diff nothing is better than to come back to use the ball diff. Gear diff is working well with a good grip. Anyway i never used it with an oil more than 1k, always between 700/1000
Also for me if your wheels are after a race at 60° means you are too much stiff as setup. Jaco Blue should be 32shore, Sorex 36 on our asphalt will stop to work at about 55/60°
Try to use a softer spring and may be a softer oil. My last race with a really hot weather (air temperature over 36°C) i went down from MM550 to a 450, i was having serious problem of grip due to the temperature. Losi40 is about 550 so some point less may be could you help too.
What kind of chassis are you using? W or WR?