dex410usa

iTrader: (12)

So drove my yokomo db5 for 2 weekends about 4 hard crashes and only broke a c hub!!! I am not sure why people say the yokomo breaks a lot. I also have a question, how to get rid of the slop in the steering? very annoying. Does the new kit takes care of the steering slop problem? I remember reading how to fix the issue but cant find it. Can any one help please?

Shopkeeper

iTrader: (35)

I think I read the new kit parts are better also. Here it is again though for the old parts.

Martin Hofer:
remove the 0.3mm shim between steering plate and steering plate holdes and replace it with a 0.1mm shim, put some ca into the holes of the steering plate where the flanged bearing goes in but let it dry before pushing in the bearing
this way you can take it apart if necessary
additionally:
put some (very small amount) ca on the steering posts, where the bearings of the steering plate holder are later, but first do the lower bearing, let the CA dry, push the bearing on, then put some ca on the area where the upper bearing will go, let dry and then push the steering plate holder along with the upper bearing on
place a 4*6*0.25mm spacer on top and screw it all back together

and tatatata you got a 100% slopfree steering

dex410usa

iTrader: (12)

Thank you, my questions how often to you need to reapply ca glue or is this a permanent solution?

Shopkeeper

iTrader: (35)

Its permanent. I did mine like this when I first got it and it is still good.

dex410usa

iTrader: (12)

thanks

defcone

iTrader: (15)

If there's slop in the ballcups, what I did was cut a little piece off the plastic bags u get when buying new parts and place it ontop of the ballhead then put the ballcup on.

vitomon

hi guys, had some test sessions on the weekend. i pretty much stuck with the basic outdoor setup posted by ronald a few pages back. as i sais i had too little steering. i changed to 2.5° on the back, and went from 2/0.5mm rollcenter rear to 1.5/0mm rc as i wanted to give less grip on the rear to get better rotation and steering.

however, nothing works. even massive setupchanges e.g. from 200 oil to 600 oil or from hpi pink/silver to yokomo pink/blue springs did not alter the times or the understeering. this is very strange to me and i am getting pretty confused with the car which worked flawlessly last outdoor season.

the last thing i am going to try next testing is the change from the double joint shafts (specr) to the normal yokomo cvd's.

what also did not change is the additive problem. we were running both sorex 36 and vtec 30x tires. i aplied MR33 and heated it 20min. just standard. first 3 laps the car is like a rocket. then it goes to understeer modus.

so much for the update. so will put the normal cvds in next time and try to get a flex chassis and try this on our track. hopefully the flex chassis will add some front grip.

cheers guys

luic

Thanks Altreyx, i use 30wt ( +- 400), and help a litle, i use W chassis. I don´t have the WR chassis.
The yokomo springs help a litle too, i feeling more agressive.(Thanks Yokomo_ant3).

Vitomon, i like 1 + 1 mm rear rollcenter, i feeling best rotation, you can test with the steering links in the original hole, in not out, and 1 mm in steering plate, i testing litemodz CVDs and i don´t like the steering, for me is best with the originals.
I don´t like MR additive with this tyres, for me work best CS HG, and litle more time, but this is personal preference.

Greetings, Luis C.

dex410usa

iTrader: (12)

Did you grease your CVDs? i had the same problem after greasing the cvds everything was fine.

vitomon

CS High Grip? i thought this was used on carpet. we are running on asphalt which is prepared with sugar water usually.

@dex: the original yokomo cvd i greased, the spec r not. as i said i will try the original ones next time and before that will try to build the car from ground up so i can clean everything etc. anyhow, can you explain what a greased cvd will do to steering?

R.Völker

With double joint shafts (doenst matter if Spec-R or other ones) the car feels like more cornerspeed into and through the corner in my opinion, but not like more understeering. You might think when you are using normal CVD's that you have more steering because due to chattering and more vibrations that the car steers better.
I broke a couple of Spec-R's already, but I recommend to use Xray pins (as said in this thread before) and longer screws all around so you can tight and fix the pins better. I recommend also a TOP pin on the inside/outdrive side which is bigger and stronger but dont have any part number here.

I am not sure if those double joint shafts are generally better on asphalt, on carpet I would say YES, but CVD's should be fine as well if you grease them from time to time.

Unfortunately out of the box some holes are not big enough, most of the time only on the edge.
Feels fine with the bearings in my opinion, replace the Spec-R O-ring only on the inside of the steering arms each side and the play between bearing and pin (guess you mean the pin of the wheel hex) was fine to me too. But if you think it has too much just put a 0.1 or 0.2mm shim between bearing and pin.

jonp

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips Ronald.

Nico'

Hi,

it's exactly that, thank you Ronald! ;-)

Nico'

R.Völker

in my last post I meant Spec-R ball bearing not O-Ring...dont know I thought while I wrote this,lol

kschu

iTrader: (16)

maybe u sleepy! lol.