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Old 04-17-2011, 10:21 PM   #2956
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So drove my yokomo db5 for 2 weekends about 4 hard crashes and only broke a c hub!!! I am not sure why people say the yokomo breaks a lot. I also have a question, how to get rid of the slop in the steering? very annoying. Does the new kit takes care of the steering slop problem? I remember reading how to fix the issue but cant find it. Can any one help please?
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:30 PM   #2957
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Originally Posted by dex410usa View Post
So drove my yokomo db5 for 2 weekends about 4 hard crashes and only broke a c hub!!! I am not sure why people say the yokomo breaks a lot. I also have a question, how to get rid of the slop in the steering? very annoying. Does the new kit takes care of the steering slop problem? I remember reading how to fix the issue but cant find it. Can any one help please?
I think I read the new kit parts are better also. Here it is again though for the old parts.

Martin Hofer:
remove the 0.3mm shim between steering plate and steering plate holdes and replace it with a 0.1mm shim, put some ca into the holes of the steering plate where the flanged bearing goes in but let it dry before pushing in the bearing
this way you can take it apart if necessary
additionally:
put some (very small amount) ca on the steering posts, where the bearings of the steering plate holder are later, but first do the lower bearing, let the CA dry, push the bearing on, then put some ca on the area where the upper bearing will go, let dry and then push the steering plate holder along with the upper bearing on
place a 4*6*0.25mm spacer on top and screw it all back together

and tatatata you got a 100% slopfree steering
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:33 PM   #2958
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Thank you, my questions how often to you need to reapply ca glue or is this a permanent solution?

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I think I read the new kit parts are better also. Here it is again though for the old parts.

Martin Hofer:
remove the 0.3mm shim between steering plate and steering plate holdes and replace it with a 0.1mm shim, put some ca into the holes of the steering plate where the flanged bearing goes in but let it dry before pushing in the bearing
this way you can take it apart if necessary
additionally:
put some (very small amount) ca on the steering posts, where the bearings of the steering plate holder are later, but first do the lower bearing, let the CA dry, push the bearing on, then put some ca on the area where the upper bearing will go, let dry and then push the steering plate holder along with the upper bearing on
place a 4*6*0.25mm spacer on top and screw it all back together

and tatatata you got a 100% slopfree steering
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:36 PM   #2959
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Its permanent. I did mine like this when I first got it and it is still good.
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:37 PM   #2960
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thanks
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Its permanent. I did mine like this when I first got it and it is still good.
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:48 PM   #2961
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thanks
If there's slop in the ballcups, what I did was cut a little piece off the plastic bags u get when buying new parts and place it ontop of the ballhead then put the ballcup on.
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:05 AM   #2962
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hi guys, had some test sessions on the weekend. i pretty much stuck with the basic outdoor setup posted by ronald a few pages back. as i sais i had too little steering. i changed to 2.5° on the back, and went from 2/0.5mm rollcenter rear to 1.5/0mm rc as i wanted to give less grip on the rear to get better rotation and steering.

however, nothing works. even massive setupchanges e.g. from 200 oil to 600 oil or from hpi pink/silver to yokomo pink/blue springs did not alter the times or the understeering. this is very strange to me and i am getting pretty confused with the car which worked flawlessly last outdoor season.

the last thing i am going to try next testing is the change from the double joint shafts (specr) to the normal yokomo cvd's.

what also did not change is the additive problem. we were running both sorex 36 and vtec 30x tires. i aplied MR33 and heated it 20min. just standard. first 3 laps the car is like a rocket. then it goes to understeer modus.

so much for the update. so will put the normal cvds in next time and try to get a flex chassis and try this on our track. hopefully the flex chassis will add some front grip.

cheers guys
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Old 04-18-2011, 01:38 PM   #2963
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Thanks Altreyx, i use 30wt ( +- 400), and help a litle, i use W chassis. I don´t have the WR chassis.
The yokomo springs help a litle too, i feeling more agressive.(Thanks Yokomo_ant3).

Vitomon, i like 1 + 1 mm rear rollcenter, i feeling best rotation, you can test with the steering links in the original hole, in not out, and 1 mm in steering plate, i testing litemodz CVDs and i don´t like the steering, for me is best with the originals.
I don´t like MR additive with this tyres, for me work best CS HG, and litle more time, but this is personal preference.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:05 AM   #2964
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Did you grease your CVDs? i had the same problem after greasing the cvds everything was fine.


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Originally Posted by vitomon View Post
hi guys, had some test sessions on the weekend. i pretty much stuck with the basic outdoor setup posted by ronald a few pages back. as i sais i had too little steering. i changed to 2.5° on the back, and went from 2/0.5mm rollcenter rear to 1.5/0mm rc as i wanted to give less grip on the rear to get better rotation and steering.

however, nothing works. even massive setupchanges e.g. from 200 oil to 600 oil or from hpi pink/silver to yokomo pink/blue springs did not alter the times or the understeering. this is very strange to me and i am getting pretty confused with the car which worked flawlessly last outdoor season.

the last thing i am going to try next testing is the change from the double joint shafts (specr) to the normal yokomo cvd's.

what also did not change is the additive problem. we were running both sorex 36 and vtec 30x tires. i aplied MR33 and heated it 20min. just standard. first 3 laps the car is like a rocket. then it goes to understeer modus.

so much for the update. so will put the normal cvds in next time and try to get a flex chassis and try this on our track. hopefully the flex chassis will add some front grip.

cheers guys
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Old 04-19-2011, 12:32 AM   #2965
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Originally Posted by luic View Post
Vitomon, i like 1 + 1 mm rear rollcenter, i feeling best rotation, you can test with the steering links in the original hole, in not out, and 1 mm in steering plate, i testing litemodz CVDs and i don´t like the steering, for me is best with the originals.
I don´t like MR additive with this tyres, for me work best CS HG, and litle more time, but this is personal preference.

Greetings, Luis C.
CS High Grip? i thought this was used on carpet. we are running on asphalt which is prepared with sugar water usually.

@dex: the original yokomo cvd i greased, the spec r not. as i said i will try the original ones next time and before that will try to build the car from ground up so i can clean everything etc. anyhow, can you explain what a greased cvd will do to steering?
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:21 AM   #2966
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yes you should remove a bit material of the c-hubs (by knife is fine). plastic c-hubs dont break so easy compared to the graphite ones, so in case there is a track where you break a lot graphite c-hubs, you should switch to plastic.

Ronald,

Do the Low Vabration Front Universals really help in driving consistency? I was told that the car will understeer once the Front Low Vibrations CVDs are installed?

Also, does the Spec-r CVD last long?

Hope you could PM me for my querries.

I recently bought the Spec-r but I'm not sure if I'm going to onstall them.

Thanks
With double joint shafts (doenst matter if Spec-R or other ones) the car feels like more cornerspeed into and through the corner in my opinion, but not like more understeering. You might think when you are using normal CVD's that you have more steering because due to chattering and more vibrations that the car steers better.
I broke a couple of Spec-R's already, but I recommend to use Xray pins (as said in this thread before) and longer screws all around so you can tight and fix the pins better. I recommend also a TOP pin on the inside/outdrive side which is bigger and stronger but dont have any part number here.

I am not sure if those double joint shafts are generally better on asphalt, on carpet I would say YES, but CVD's should be fine as well if you grease them from time to time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico' View Post
I bought Spec R double articulation drive shafts too but I have some problems:
- the hole in the the axle is not enough wide for 1.5mm pin
- drive shafts arrived with 3mm bearings but if I use these bearings, there is a play between bearing and pin.

So what to do please?
Unfortunately out of the box some holes are not big enough, most of the time only on the edge.
Feels fine with the bearings in my opinion, replace the Spec-R O-ring only on the inside of the steering arms each side and the play between bearing and pin (guess you mean the pin of the wheel hex) was fine to me too. But if you think it has too much just put a 0.1 or 0.2mm shim between bearing and pin.
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Old 04-19-2011, 07:47 AM   #2967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
With double joint shafts (doenst matter if Spec-R or other ones) the car feels like more cornerspeed into and through the corner in my opinion, but not like more understeering. You might think when you are using normal CVD's that you have more steering because due to chattering and more vibrations that the car steers better.
I broke a couple of Spec-R's already, but I recommend to use Xray pins (as said in this thread before) and longer screws all around so you can tight and fix the pins better. I recommend also a TOP pin on the inside/outdrive side which is bigger and stronger but dont have any part number here.

I am not sure if those double joint shafts are generally better on asphalt, on carpet I would say YES, but CVD's should be fine as well if you grease them from time to time.



Unfortunately out of the box some holes are not big enough, most of the time only on the edge.
Feels fine with the bearings in my opinion, replace the Spec-R O-ring only on the inside of the steering arms each side and the play between bearing and pin (guess you mean the pin of the wheel hex) was fine to me too. But if you think it has too much just put a 0.1 or 0.2mm shim between bearing and pin.
Thanks for the tips Ronald.
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Old 04-19-2011, 01:40 PM   #2968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
With double joint shafts (doenst matter if Spec-R or other ones) the car feels like more cornerspeed into and through the corner in my opinion, but not like more understeering. You might think when you are using normal CVD's that you have more steering because due to chattering and more vibrations that the car steers better.
I broke a couple of Spec-R's already, but I recommend to use Xray pins (as said in this thread before) and longer screws all around so you can tight and fix the pins better. I recommend also a TOP pin on the inside/outdrive side which is bigger and stronger but dont have any part number here.

I am not sure if those double joint shafts are generally better on asphalt, on carpet I would say YES, but CVD's should be fine as well if you grease them from time to time.



Unfortunately out of the box some holes are not big enough, most of the time only on the edge.
Feels fine with the bearings in my opinion, replace the Spec-R O-ring only on the inside of the steering arms each side and the play between bearing and pin (guess you mean the pin of the wheel hex) was fine to me too. But if you think it has too much just put a 0.1 or 0.2mm shim between bearing and pin.
Hi,

it's exactly that, thank you Ronald! ;-)

Nico'
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:33 PM   #2969
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in my last post I meant Spec-R ball bearing not O-Ring...dont know I thought while I wrote this,lol
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:20 PM   #2970
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Originally Posted by R.Völker View Post
in my last post I meant Spec-R ball bearing not O-Ring...dont know I thought while I wrote this,lol
maybe u sleepy! lol.
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