Josh Keller

iTrader: (37)

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Fred_B

iTrader: (1)

With less timing you'll probably want to gear up on the pinion. There's a lot going on so running motor timing vs. speedo timing is going to be a try it and see type of deal. Personally, I like a lot of speedo timing and gearing way down. The new turbo stuff would probably be helpful in oval.

On the ovals, it's going to take some expermenting to find out what works for you and your track.

DHMOTORSPORTS

iTrader: (19)

Hi guys. Im starting to get geared back up for this indoor season. I wanted to know if a booster or a reciver pack would be best for my APP? Im gonna us the RS and Redline 10.5 from last year. I just didnt want to have any runtime issues if I use a booster. There was talk about mabe the class going to 8.5 for this year, but have wait and see how it goes. What you all think? Randy? Thanks

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Hi Peoples,

Originally in this thread i saw that when running a receiver pack or booster that people were taking one of the pins out of the receiver plug of the RS before plugging it into receiver.
If i recall correctly it was the middle wire.

Do we still need to do this?

I hope that makes sense.....

Thanks,
Martin

GWH74

iTrader: (13)

Hi Martin

Leave all the wires in and the switch on the speedy OFF.
I am running one of the cheap hobbycity boosters with the RS Pro and SMC 4900 with no problems.
You will need to wire a switch in between the battery and the booster. This will be the main switch that will turn the power off to the receiver, this turns the power off to the ESC, servo, transponder.

GWH74

iTrader: (13)

Hi guys

Just read liljohn1064 posts one page back about turning the RS ON to get the Lipo cut out to work.
I am a little concerned about this as i have just done some testing with a receiver pack and no main battery connected to the ESC. With the switch OFF the ESC powers up and the LEDs change as your move the throttle / brake.
With the RS switch ON it tries to drive the motor (and does with a 4 cell 2000mah receiver pack) through the receiver pack. You can try this with the 4 cell battery holder that comes with your transmitter /receiver combo.
Therefore if the booster is putting out 5V, this is above the battery voltage and excess current could be drawn by the motor through the booster.
I will do some testing later this week with a variable power supply powering the ESC to see how the low voltage cut out works as the voltage is lowered.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Cheers! Thanks for the reply GWH74

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Just to clarify, what I did is with v200 firmware and the answer was from Randy Pike.

slotracer577

Mine will run the motor slowly on the RX pack if the main pack is not hooked up. Doesnt seem to be an issue in use as I run with the speed control on and the RX pack using V200. So far I only take out 60 to 80 mah per run so the motor cant be getting much from the RX battery.

I did burn up a TQ booster on one of the cars, the other one is going strong. Now that this comes up I wonder if the voltage might have been high from that booster and it was trying to feed the speed control, thus causing the failure. Or the speed control was off and with the booster on, the booster did all the work. This could easily cause the booster to overheat.

John

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

If im not mistaken, the design of the RS is such that when the lipo cut off kicks in, you will still be able to move your car slowly.

That way your car just suddenly stop in the middle of the track, say on the racing line....

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

It will slow, but not stop dead. Its to save the battery from being over discharged. Honestly, in an 8 minute race a 1S 13.5 can go the distance with no fear of that happening anyway. I'm just being cautious.

S_fender

Hello,

Where can i found the 200 software ?
i can't find it on tekin's Web site.

Or can someone send me the 200 software ?
[email protected]

Thanks

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Send and email to Randy and he will send it back.

[email protected]

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

So currently I run a Novak GTB 4cellSS ESC and a Orion Vortex v2 10.5T motor, that setup is plenty fast in my BMI 12th w/ 1S batt. After seeing some examples of the speed and boost that one can get out of the Tekin latest firmware I just droped the money on a RS w/ Hotwire.

Any good default setups/profiles for a fairly technical course, with a 75ft - 80ft straight? for a 10.5 and a 13.5? And what rollout change would I see going from a GTB based ESC to a Tekin... does it go up or down?

And after reading most of this thread I am still a bit confused as to how you have the ESC/booster/powerswitch all configured. If I read right - the booster should be run off the battery directly and plugged into the Rx. The ESC should have its connector with all 3 wires plugged into the Rx and the switch be off on the ESC? or the red wire out of the ESC connection to the RX and the switch be on the ESC?

I figure I know how to setup cars pretty good... this ESC business is going to add a whole new level of complexity into the mix I think... but if its faster... its faster!

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'm running a rollout in the low 60s at the moment. If you would like to see the setup, I'm sure I can get it to the track. I'm running the RS/13.5 Redline.

Firmware is V200
Endbell timing is 10*
Timing boost is 20
Turbo is Max (20)
Turbo delay is .5 sec.
I have drag brake at 20
Brake strenth at 100%
Deadband Width at 15
Its set for 3.7V 1S lipo
Lipo cutoff is set on Custom with 3V selected from the drop down.
ESC switch is turned on and off.

TQ Booster now has a switch, so I do not have to unplug the booster to turn the car off. The leads are wired to the +/- ESC terminals with the capacitor.