R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-06-2009, 07:50 PM   #271
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 632
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

.

Last edited by Josh Keller; 09-26-2009 at 07:49 PM.
Josh Keller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2009, 09:47 PM   #272
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh Keller View Post
Hey guys,

I'm seeking some gearing advice. I was running full timing boost (30 degrees) and zero timing on a Tekin Redline 17.5. I was around a 4.60 rollout.

I'm wanting to go to the next extreme. Zero timing boost and full timing on a Tekin Redline 17.5 (24 degrees, I think) to see if I can tell a difference.

With 6 degrees less timing, should I drop 2 teeth or so on the pinion? Temperatures were fine with the 4.60 rollout. Just curious if using more motor timing would give the car more "snap".

This was a flat, carpet oval. Runline is 140 feet.

Thanks for the help.

Josh
With less timing you'll probably want to gear up on the pinion. There's a lot going on so running motor timing vs. speedo timing is going to be a try it and see type of deal. Personally, I like a lot of speedo timing and gearing way down. The new turbo stuff would probably be helpful in oval.

On the ovals, it's going to take some expermenting to find out what works for you and your track.
Fred_B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 12:51 PM   #273
Tech Fanatic
 
DHMOTORSPORTS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Central IL.
Posts: 836
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys. Im starting to get geared back up for this indoor season. I wanted to know if a booster or a reciver pack would be best for my APP? Im gonna us the RS and Redline 10.5 from last year. I just didnt want to have any runtime issues if I use a booster. There was talk about mabe the class going to 8.5 for this year, but have wait and see how it goes. What you all think? Randy? Thanks
__________________
Trinity / Team Epic / ReVtech Batteries / TRC / F-Bomb Graphix
DHMOTORSPORTS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 12:27 AM   #274
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Hi Peoples,

Originally in this thread i saw that when running a receiver pack or booster that people were taking one of the pins out of the receiver plug of the RS before plugging it into receiver.
If i recall correctly it was the middle wire.

Do we still need to do this?

I hope that makes sense.....

Thanks,
Martin
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 05:02 AM   #275
Tech Regular
 
GWH74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 254
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi Martin

Leave all the wires in and the switch on the speedy OFF.
I am running one of the cheap hobbycity boosters with the RS Pro and SMC 4900 with no problems.
You will need to wire a switch in between the battery and the booster. This will be the main switch that will turn the power off to the receiver, this turns the power off to the ESC, servo, transponder.
__________________
AE 12R5.1 - Custom chassis
For Sale BMI DB12RR, Tire Warmers and lots of other stuff.
GWH74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 05:28 AM   #276
Tech Regular
 
GWH74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 254
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys

Just read liljohn1064 posts one page back about turning the RS ON to get the Lipo cut out to work.
I am a little concerned about this as i have just done some testing with a receiver pack and no main battery connected to the ESC. With the switch OFF the ESC powers up and the LEDs change as your move the throttle / brake.
With the RS switch ON it tries to drive the motor (and does with a 4 cell 2000mah receiver pack) through the receiver pack. You can try this with the 4 cell battery holder that comes with your transmitter /receiver combo.
Therefore if the booster is putting out 5V, this is above the battery voltage and excess current could be drawn by the motor through the booster.
I will do some testing later this week with a variable power supply powering the ESC to see how the low voltage cut out works as the voltage is lowered.
__________________
AE 12R5.1 - Custom chassis
For Sale BMI DB12RR, Tire Warmers and lots of other stuff.
GWH74 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 06:26 AM   #277
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Cheers! Thanks for the reply GWH74
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 07:44 AM   #278
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,582
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWH74 View Post
Hi guys

Just read liljohn1064 posts one page back about turning the RS ON to get the Lipo cut out to work.
I am a little concerned about this as i have just done some testing with a receiver pack and no main battery connected to the ESC. With the switch OFF the ESC powers up and the LEDs change as your move the throttle / brake.
With the RS switch ON it tries to drive the motor (and does with a 4 cell 2000mah receiver pack) through the receiver pack. You can try this with the 4 cell battery holder that comes with your transmitter /receiver combo.
Therefore if the booster is putting out 5V, this is above the battery voltage and excess current could be drawn by the motor through the booster.
I will do some testing later this week with a variable power supply powering the ESC to see how the low voltage cut out works as the voltage is lowered.

Just to clarify, what I did is with v200 firmware and the answer was from Randy Pike.
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 08:24 AM   #279
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: colorado
Posts: 192
Send a message via Skype™ to slotracer577
Default

Mine will run the motor slowly on the RX pack if the main pack is not hooked up. Doesnt seem to be an issue in use as I run with the speed control on and the RX pack using V200. So far I only take out 60 to 80 mah per run so the motor cant be getting much from the RX battery.

I did burn up a TQ booster on one of the cars, the other one is going strong. Now that this comes up I wonder if the voltage might have been high from that booster and it was trying to feed the speed control, thus causing the failure. Or the speed control was off and with the booster on, the booster did all the work. This could easily cause the booster to overheat.

John
slotracer577 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 11:22 AM   #280
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

If im not mistaken, the design of the RS is such that when the lipo cut off kicks in, you will still be able to move your car slowly.

That way your car just suddenly stop in the middle of the track, say on the racing line....
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 11:28 AM   #281
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,582
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
If im not mistaken, the design of the RS is such that when the lipo cut off kicks in, you will still be able to move your car slowly.

That way your car just suddenly stop in the middle of the track, say on the racing line....
It will slow, but not stop dead. Its to save the battery from being over discharged. Honestly, in an 8 minute race a 1S 13.5 can go the distance with no fear of that happening anyway. I'm just being cautious.
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 12:06 PM   #282
Tech Adept
 
S_fender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Dijon, France
Posts: 168
Default

Hello,

Where can i found the 200 software ?
i can't find it on tekin's Web site.

Or can someone send me the 200 software ?
[email protected]

Thanks
S_fender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 12:12 PM   #283
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,582
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by S_fender View Post
Hello,

Where can i found the 200 software ?
i can't find it on tekin's Web site.

Or can someone send me the 200 software ?
[email protected]

Thanks
Send and email to Randy and he will send it back.

[email protected]
__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:17 PM   #284
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

So currently I run a Novak GTB 4cellSS ESC and a Orion Vortex v2 10.5T motor, that setup is plenty fast in my BMI 12th w/ 1S batt. After seeing some examples of the speed and boost that one can get out of the Tekin latest firmware I just droped the money on a RS w/ Hotwire.

Any good default setups/profiles for a fairly technical course, with a 75ft - 80ft straight? for a 10.5 and a 13.5? And what rollout change would I see going from a GTB based ESC to a Tekin... does it go up or down?

And after reading most of this thread I am still a bit confused as to how you have the ESC/booster/powerswitch all configured. If I read right - the booster should be run off the battery directly and plugged into the Rx. The ESC should have its connector with all 3 wires plugged into the Rx and the switch be off on the ESC? or the red wire out of the ESC connection to the RX and the switch be on the ESC?

I figure I know how to setup cars pretty good... this ESC business is going to add a whole new level of complexity into the mix I think... but if its faster... its faster!
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 02:31 PM   #285
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,582
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
So currently I run a Novak GTB 4cellSS ESC and a Orion Vortex v2 10.5T motor, that setup is plenty fast in my BMI 12th w/ 1S batt. After seeing some examples of the speed and boost that one can get out of the Tekin latest firmware I just droped the money on a RS w/ Hotwire.

Any good default setups/profiles for a fairly technical course, with a 75ft - 80ft straight? for a 10.5 and a 13.5? And what rollout change would I see going from a GTB based ESC to a Tekin... does it go up or down?

And after reading most of this thread I am still a bit confused as to how you have the ESC/booster/powerswitch all configured. If I read right - the booster should be run off the battery directly and plugged into the Rx. The ESC should have its connector with all 3 wires plugged into the Rx and the switch be off on the ESC? or the red wire out of the ESC connection to the RX and the switch be on the ESC?

I figure I know how to setup cars pretty good... this ESC business is going to add a whole new level of complexity into the mix I think... but if its faster... its faster!
I'm running a rollout in the low 60s at the moment. If you would like to see the setup, I'm sure I can get it to the track. I'm running the RS/13.5 Redline.

Firmware is V200
Endbell timing is 10*
Timing boost is 20
Turbo is Max (20)
Turbo delay is .5 sec.
I have drag brake at 20
Brake strenth at 100%
Deadband Width at 15
Its set for 3.7V 1S lipo
Lipo cutoff is set on Custom with 3V selected from the drop down.
ESC switch is turned on and off.

TQ Booster now has a switch, so I do not have to unplug the booster to turn the car off. The leads are wired to the +/- ESC terminals with the capacitor.



__________________
John Higgins former student of The Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driving School. The "Team Principal".
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:24 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net