2LikesHPI Cup Racer 1M
10-17-2010, 05:44 AM
#1861
ARGGGHHHH,
started building my CR'er this evening ...w/ 2 small kids and wife I don't get much time to myself ...tonight was my night. I am totally missing 2 plastic parts from the plastics bag. One part is the entire battery tree the other is the shock parts set. ...totally missing. Tonight was the first time I opened the box. I was very methodical in looking over every page of the directions and noticed that two part trees/bags are totally missing. Also my red liquid locking solution containter cap was not tighten and the liquid is all over the inside of that bag. The outer box of my CR'er is in perfect condition, so this must have happened before it was all packaged. -totally frustrating as now I have to call HPI for replacement parts. Funny, thing is that I had to send my original receipt in for the current $25 discount they are offering. So I have no proof I bought this kit!
The two parts trees are cheap, about $10 total, so I may just see if I can get them from some 3rd party and will probably get here quicker.
okay, little frustrated!
(I did make it out to a race today w/ my 4year old boy ...we raced my 1/18th scale street car). -so was still a good day!
started building my CR'er this evening ...w/ 2 small kids and wife I don't get much time to myself ...tonight was my night. I am totally missing 2 plastic parts from the plastics bag. One part is the entire battery tree the other is the shock parts set. ...totally missing. Tonight was the first time I opened the box. I was very methodical in looking over every page of the directions and noticed that two part trees/bags are totally missing. Also my red liquid locking solution containter cap was not tighten and the liquid is all over the inside of that bag. The outer box of my CR'er is in perfect condition, so this must have happened before it was all packaged. -totally frustrating as now I have to call HPI for replacement parts. Funny, thing is that I had to send my original receipt in for the current $25 discount they are offering. So I have no proof I bought this kit!
The two parts trees are cheap, about $10 total, so I may just see if I can get them from some 3rd party and will probably get here quicker.
okay, little frustrated!
(I did make it out to a race today w/ my 4year old boy ...we raced my 1/18th scale street car). -so was still a good day!
10-17-2010, 10:43 AM
#1862
Thanks for the offer to help me out w/ the missing parts.
I actually already ordered them through another co' (w/ some upgrade parts).
-they were about $10 for the two missing plastic parts trees.
I actually already ordered them through another co' (w/ some upgrade parts).
-they were about $10 for the two missing plastic parts trees.
10-18-2010, 06:49 PM
#1863
Okay, got another question ...
...as I am looking to get a Lipo battery and brushless setup, i am noticing that none of the recievers out there seem to accept lipo's as a battery source. Can I get a voltage regulator for the reciever (to connect to the lipo battery) ..and then use lipo w/ any reciever? I think the voltage regulators are called BEC's or something? ..thanks
...as I am looking to get a Lipo battery and brushless setup, i am noticing that none of the recievers out there seem to accept lipo's as a battery source. Can I get a voltage regulator for the reciever (to connect to the lipo battery) ..and then use lipo w/ any reciever? I think the voltage regulators are called BEC's or something? ..thanks
10-18-2010, 06:54 PM
#1864
please delete this post (somehow my post was submitted 2x)
10-18-2010, 07:14 PM
#1865
Okay, got another question ...
...as I am looking to get a Lipo battery and brushless setup, i am noticing that none of the recievers out there seem to accept lipo's as a battery source. Can I get a voltage regulator for the reciever (to connect to the lipo battery) ..and then use lipo w/ any reciever? I think the voltage regulators are called BEC's or something? ..thanks
...as I am looking to get a Lipo battery and brushless setup, i am noticing that none of the recievers out there seem to accept lipo's as a battery source. Can I get a voltage regulator for the reciever (to connect to the lipo battery) ..and then use lipo w/ any reciever? I think the voltage regulators are called BEC's or something? ..thanks
the only time you run into issues with lipo, receivers and voltage is when you are running a 1s pack with a 2s receiver pack - this is when you need a regulator or something along those lines...this would be for 12th scale, WGT or oval...
but if you are using 2s or 3s pack, you'll be fine with the voltage that the esc is sending to the receiver
10-18-2010, 09:48 PM
#1866
Thankyou for your help w/ this! -that's what I needed to know.
10-19-2010, 06:25 AM
#1867
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
I RAN THIS PAST WEEKEND WITH MIXED RESULTS...
We run a TCS class, and we wanted to see how the CR holds up with them.
Jack the Gripper traction compound all around. This is what my setup is:
Front:
* Pink springs, 50wt oil, option shocks laydown
* Kickup (track bumpy)
* 0 Toe
* 1 degree negative camber
* Gold swaybar
* 1 clip in front of upper arm 1 behind to set caster
* Stock rollcenter
* 5mm ride height
* Tamiya A Slicks w hard inserts
* had the stock gear diff without any springs
* Stock Droop
Rear:
* Blue springs, 40wt oil, option shock set on inner most hole on option tower
* No antisquat
* 3 degree toe-in
* 1.5 degree negative camber
* No swaybar
* Low roll center
* 5mm ride height
* Tamiya A slicks W hard inserts
* Ball diff adjusted to no slip
* Stock droop
It was VERY hard to drive, off the throttle in the corners was great as soon as I gas'd it it would pull hard into the boards.
Still working on setup for the next race, I am going to install a ball diff up front to see if it helps.
We run a TCS class, and we wanted to see how the CR holds up with them.
Jack the Gripper traction compound all around. This is what my setup is:
Front:
* Pink springs, 50wt oil, option shocks laydown
* Kickup (track bumpy)
* 0 Toe
* 1 degree negative camber
* Gold swaybar
* 1 clip in front of upper arm 1 behind to set caster
* Stock rollcenter
* 5mm ride height
* Tamiya A Slicks w hard inserts
* had the stock gear diff without any springs
* Stock Droop
Rear:
* Blue springs, 40wt oil, option shock set on inner most hole on option tower
* No antisquat
* 3 degree toe-in
* 1.5 degree negative camber
* No swaybar
* Low roll center
* 5mm ride height
* Tamiya A slicks W hard inserts
* Ball diff adjusted to no slip
* Stock droop
It was VERY hard to drive, off the throttle in the corners was great as soon as I gas'd it it would pull hard into the boards.
Still working on setup for the next race, I am going to install a ball diff up front to see if it helps.
10-19-2010, 07:47 AM
#1868
Tech Initiate
Are there any alternatives to the Hot Racing axle cups yet? The Hot Racing ones are not threaded, so I'd rather not buy those.
Fabiz
Fabiz
10-25-2010, 06:30 PM
#1872
Tech Rookie
How to make adjustments
These might be some super noob questions.
How do you adjust rear toe in/out ? I know the camber in the rear is fairly easy by twisting the uper links in to close the gap.
How do you adjust the front toe/in out? Is it done via the akerman plates?
Right now I have some good camber on the rear, but I found adjusting camber on the front is fairly hard as its physically hard to twist the upper portion on the arms to make the shorter therfore giving it camber.
Thanks for any help, in advance.
How do you adjust rear toe in/out ? I know the camber in the rear is fairly easy by twisting the uper links in to close the gap.
How do you adjust the front toe/in out? Is it done via the akerman plates?
Right now I have some good camber on the rear, but I found adjusting camber on the front is fairly hard as its physically hard to twist the upper portion on the arms to make the shorter therfore giving it camber.
Thanks for any help, in advance.
10-26-2010, 05:10 PM
#1873
I think I am running into a similar problem w/ the threaded or lack of threading on the tiny locknut. ..I barely tighted the differential gear w/ one of the tiny nuts and it stripped as I was tightening it. ...I looked at it under a magnifying glass. Looks like it only has about 2 or 3 threads of metal then plastic ..it's very fragile. I ordered a bag of them for about $2 off another site, ..yet thinking I am either going to have to put some locktite on it? or find a longer lock nut w/ more threads? -I don't trust that that tiny locknut is going to do the job. -especially w/ tension from the spring that is loaded in the diff housing.
10-29-2010, 05:58 AM
#1875
Tech Rookie
Do you guys increase ride height by lengthening the shocks?