Raman

iTrader: (94)

Anyone?

aSab

iTrader: (4)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9840316-post2678.html

Maybe that's correct, I can't stand for it.

Bart_Banaan

Better late than later....

No the stand-up shocks do not fit under the Stratos body. You have to use the laydown position.

Re-volt

i am waiting for my kit to arrive, i wonder if a 13T 3000kv motor is too much for the cup racer?

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Should be fine, I've run a black can in mine (rcmini guys think they are close to the same) and currently have a 10.5 novak 4200kv in it.. lol. works well.

Re-volt

good to know, thank you for the prompt reply, this thread is amazing..

EM1-TC3

Yeah I have to agree with wollow86, with a 3000kv and stock gearing that should get you up in the mid to upper 20mph range. I installed a 3500kv Tacon in mine at first and it was overkill for me at the track and in an open parking lot those HPI tires ballooned on me pretty quick. I'm running a 2230kv now for indoor carpet racing.

I do recommend the Exotek front diff input cup, I had so much bite it sheared off the plastic teeth on it.

Re-volt

thank you for the advice, i will look into the cups.

aSab

iTrader: (4)

a further must have item is the spring kit. don't ever think you can have enough fun (I mean speed) with the stock springs installed. other than that, maybe another set of the bushings. when I had hard 'accidents', my rear hinge pins came out and those bushings are pretty hard to find

Raman

iTrader: (94)

LOL, I remember walking the track trying to find my bushings!! Luckily I did find it..

aSab

iTrader: (4)

ok so here goes another one: even though I wanted to skip alum. upgrades to my CR, I did buy a set only to replace the stock upper A-arms. I was sick how hard it was to adjust camber with the standard A-arms (was used to normal turnbuckles on the SC10 and B44 LOL).

and so I did replace them, only to lose the camber adjusting screw at my first trip to the local carpet track and never find it. blah, of course I didn't had no screw like that in my spares (because the SC10 is almost all SAE), so my day was blown. again, this was my fault, since I was used to screws-in-plastic (again, SC10) thus did not apply any threadlock to that screw. so do yourself a favor, and be wiser then I was

edit: GPM A-arms that is. and even though the screw is a metric 3mm thick 8mm long one, its head isn't the standard size head, it is a bit narrower. I had to grind my new spare ones a bit to make them fit.

Saint Bastia

Hi CR owners,

Has anyone else noticed that in step 25 (page 33) of the build process, parts 75115 (ball stud) is attached directly to the plastic part 85279 #5, yet in the exploded view section (page 44) part 85279 #4 (plastic washer) fits in between parts 75115 (ball stud) and the plastic part 85279 #5.

Cheers.

EM1-TC3

One thing I noticed with those GPM upper arms is the retaining ring for the King Pin Ball isn't bullet proof, I had to use the stock outter sections and those camber marks are not or at least weren't for me all that accurate. I have one washer in one arm and two in the other but they both measure -1.5 on the gauge.

+1 on the bushings!
I've heard of some guys double stacking the orange suspension mounts to make it stronger.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

FYI guys, regardless of what car you own, stay away from GPM parts. They are beyond poor quality and very cheaply made to poor tolerances. So you're not really upgrading your car. Save your money.

Another thing, the less aluminum on your suspension the better. You hit a piece of plastic it flexes or breaks. Aluminum bends, straightening the bend is not easy. Also these cars do need a weak point to absorb the shock of the hit. By replacing those weak parts with harder parts only means you are going to damage something else.

EM1-TC3

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