HPI Cup Racer 1M
#2491
..sorry, wasn't trying to offend you or talk down (w/ the FPS lesson).
it is just difficult to get a sense of how fast something is travelling on a YouTube video ..looking at it visually.
You mentioned that you have a 13.5 turn motor w/ a 1500mah nicad pack, and Novak GTB ESC.
do you mean "NiMH", or are you using a nicad? If a nicad, then that battery isn't listed to work w/ that ESC and may be your issue:
here is what the Novak GTB ESC says about input voltage:
2S (Li-Po) / 4-6 cells NiMH (1.2V/cell)
you need to get a li-po or a nimh battery. nimh are less expensive if $$ is an issue. I'd recommend a 4800 or 5000 mah one.
it is just difficult to get a sense of how fast something is travelling on a YouTube video ..looking at it visually.
You mentioned that you have a 13.5 turn motor w/ a 1500mah nicad pack, and Novak GTB ESC.
do you mean "NiMH", or are you using a nicad? If a nicad, then that battery isn't listed to work w/ that ESC and may be your issue:
here is what the Novak GTB ESC says about input voltage:
2S (Li-Po) / 4-6 cells NiMH (1.2V/cell)
you need to get a li-po or a nimh battery. nimh are less expensive if $$ is an issue. I'd recommend a 4800 or 5000 mah one.
Last edited by eR1c; 06-14-2011 at 08:55 AM.
#2492
Tech Apprentice
lol don't worry man no offense taken just saying i know where your coming from i actually like that you explained it most people dont know anything about fps or how it works
i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
#2494
To get the best out of that 13 turn brushless, you really need to give it a 40C or better LIPO pack, because it can dish up the current much more efficiently and dish up more current than the NIMH can.
The car i currently drive came with a NIMH battery, changing to a 3200 50C Lipo gave me a 3 second per lap speed increase, using the same rtr motor it came with.
The 6800 NIMH will give you much longer run times, but if you are after better lap times, hi rated C lipos are the way to go IMO.
The car i currently drive came with a NIMH battery, changing to a 3200 50C Lipo gave me a 3 second per lap speed increase, using the same rtr motor it came with.
The 6800 NIMH will give you much longer run times, but if you are after better lap times, hi rated C lipos are the way to go IMO.
#2495
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
i understand how fps works (took film classes in high school made a few shoryt films etc) but that video is a good representation of how fast it goes
the main reason i ask is my friend has a brushless 2wd slash on 2 s lipos that is 3 times as fast and that just seems backwards to me
the main reason i ask is my friend has a brushless 2wd slash on 2 s lipos that is 3 times as fast and that just seems backwards to me
a slash has significantly larger tires - thereby giving it a higher rollout (ie, the amount of ground it covers in 1 revolution of a wheel)
your cup racer has smaller tires - if you put on standard TC wheels, it will go faster assuming you didn't mess with gearing.
that's why when you are running foam tires, you need to constantly be aware of what you're rolling out at - because as the tires get smaller, the car goes slower (assuming no changing of gear ratios)...
plus, what kind of motor does your friend have in his slash? is it the same as what you're running in your CR?
#2496
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
lol don't worry man no offense taken just saying i know where your coming from i actually like that you explained it most people dont know anything about fps or how it works
i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
i have a new nimh pack on the way thats rated at 6800 mah not sure if thats accurate or not but its on its way i thought the battery pack might be holding me back but its the only pack i have to work with at the moment
#2497
..Lipo is definitely the way to go,
yet if you already have a 6800MAH NIMH battery on the way try that out. I'd bet that you'll get much better performance than your 1500 NICD, -which isn't even rated for use w/ that ESC you have. I think what you're doing w/ the new battery is a good thing to try.
If that doesn't give you faster performance, you should also check your ESC programming. That ESC has several programmable forward scenarios, ...you may have it programmed to something that isn't allowing full power? -probably not, but worth checking (and it doesn't cost $$).
If your using the standard CR'r tires, i wouldn't worry 'bout that too much. I have a 17turn and my CR'r flies ...whether i use the 60mm CR'r tires or a little larger 64mm sized tires ...doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference for parking lot driving.
i'd go through and recheck your gear mesh, the ESC programming, make sure your motor is in good shape. From the video you shared it looks like your tires are pretty standard size, ..you don't have Clod Buster tires on it or anything! ....the battery seems like a logical place to start (especially since you were using a Nicd when it should be a Nimh or Lipo for that ESC).
Let us know what happens w/ the new battery. I am curious.
yet if you already have a 6800MAH NIMH battery on the way try that out. I'd bet that you'll get much better performance than your 1500 NICD, -which isn't even rated for use w/ that ESC you have. I think what you're doing w/ the new battery is a good thing to try.
If that doesn't give you faster performance, you should also check your ESC programming. That ESC has several programmable forward scenarios, ...you may have it programmed to something that isn't allowing full power? -probably not, but worth checking (and it doesn't cost $$).
If your using the standard CR'r tires, i wouldn't worry 'bout that too much. I have a 17turn and my CR'r flies ...whether i use the 60mm CR'r tires or a little larger 64mm sized tires ...doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference for parking lot driving.
i'd go through and recheck your gear mesh, the ESC programming, make sure your motor is in good shape. From the video you shared it looks like your tires are pretty standard size, ..you don't have Clod Buster tires on it or anything! ....the battery seems like a logical place to start (especially since you were using a Nicd when it should be a Nimh or Lipo for that ESC).
Let us know what happens w/ the new battery. I am curious.
#2498
Tech Apprentice
my friend just has the stock traxxas brushless system in his slash
i do plan to go lipo later but right now it was easier to get a nimh pack that i already have a charger for then a new lipo pack and $50+ for a charger ive messed with the programming a little so i now have reverse and turned the drag brake off but other then that i havent done much we shall see what a new pack does cause im curious as well
i do plan to go lipo later but right now it was easier to get a nimh pack that i already have a charger for then a new lipo pack and $50+ for a charger ive messed with the programming a little so i now have reverse and turned the drag brake off but other then that i havent done much we shall see what a new pack does cause im curious as well
#2499
..I installed these aluminum axle cups in my CR'r.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Cup-Racer-al...item3a671837ec
In my last competition one of the rear tires came off in both of the events I competed in. I am wondering if I need to put a little blue loctite on them to keep them snug? ...yet is that the best way to go considering I change tires after each race ...and will be changing tires often ..not sure I want to junk up the threads w/ loctite each time? Anyone else experience this? ...or maybe I just didn't tighten my wheels enough?
http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-Cup-Racer-al...item3a671837ec
In my last competition one of the rear tires came off in both of the events I competed in. I am wondering if I need to put a little blue loctite on them to keep them snug? ...yet is that the best way to go considering I change tires after each race ...and will be changing tires often ..not sure I want to junk up the threads w/ loctite each time? Anyone else experience this? ...or maybe I just didn't tighten my wheels enough?
#2500
Tech Rookie
In my last competition one of the rear tires came off in both of the events I competed in. I am wondering if I need to put a little blue loctite on them to keep them snug? ...yet is that the best way to go considering I change tires after each race ...and will be changing tires often ..not sure I want to junk up the threads w/ loctite each time? Anyone else experience this? ...or maybe I just didn't tighten my wheels enough?
#2501
..yeah i usually do check everything, i think i must have forgot to check the wheels after the 1st race.
#2502
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
I still have the original hubs. I glued the nut inside the hub so that it wont move in and out on wheel changes. So far so good.
#2504
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
i also have this old skool HPI Mini Pajero suv body, it was made for the RS4 mini or nitro mini, anyone know if it will fit the cup racer correctly?
link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
#2505
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
i also have this old skool HPI Mini Pajero suv body, it was made for the RS4 mini or nitro mini, anyone know if it will fit the cup racer correctly?
link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
link-->> http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7025paj.jpg
best thing - if you can find the wheel base for that body download a copy of the Cup Racer's manual from HPI's site its free and will give you everything you need to know about the chassis