Bitoy

Runnin' a TA03 with loose diff in front and tight diff at the rear works, but will it do with my TA03F Stocker? How do I set it up?

Can I run my TA03F in Rally Configurations with lots of obstacles and a few 4-5 inches jumps? I don't think it will level up especially in jumps

psycho

Bitoy

I don't have any experience with the non-F version of the TA03, but you get the best results with loose diffs unless you have too much steering. I'm sure the TRF guys will chime in if I'm wrong!

I wouldn't suggest running a belt drive car offroad since the pebble will chew up your belt and pulleys. You're better off with a shaft drive car for rally racing.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Well last night I finally ran my TA03R in the Tamiya GT2 class at our local track. Big Tamiya TCS race next week so I wanted to shake the car down some.

I started with the setup mentioned a little bit ago. I ran it with Tamiya Type A's on (the new 24mm narrow ones and they where not near as tall as their normal A's). Car had so much steering it was loose. After a few runs and changing a few things it still sucked to say the least. I finally did everything backwards and the car began to dial in.

I ended up going stiffer in the rear and softer in the front. Stiffer the rear the mare traction it would get. I ended up with the this setup on the asphalt.

Front Shocks: 90wt 1 hole piston, with blue standard Tamiya Springs. Two orings inside the shocks and one outside and no swaybar.

Rear Shocks: 90wt 1 hole piston, with dark blue Tamiya springs from the newer stiffer Tamiya touring spring set. ORange swaybar. Two orings inside the shocks.

Ride height was 4mm. Geared a P2K with a 24 pinion on a small indoor asphalt track. that is the metric .04 pinions. Ran the Tamiya Mercedes 2000 DTM body.

Well I was the only TA03R in the field. I qualified 2nd by less than a second. In the main I followed the leader for 3 laps til my tires got warm and then he went wide in a tight corner and I went under him and led from their.

Many people were really impressed with the 03R and many just scratched their heads as they just had the 03R whip their tricked to max 04's. I only had some matched 2000's as well. Many were using the 2400 and high voltage 3000's.

The car was on rails and was almost like driving with foams on. It is the best working Tamiya car I have ever owned. I have had 3 DJ cars but none worked like this beast did. The only place the 04's would get me is out of the corner. If I get a new motor and some better batteries they won't have that advantage either. Even if I only make the show at the TCS I'm sure I will have the only 03 in the field.

Can't wait to next week to run the car. No matter what happens the car has proved that if setup right it will still contend against some of the newer stuff out.

Thanks for the help from all. Oh yea the overall reduction of the car with the white gears is 2.68 to 1 for those whose want to know. Thanks to psycho's initial help I figured it out. Thanks again for that.

Dayten

Wyd-That is really great to hear that your TA03R did so well. I haven't had a chance to run my setup yet due to the race for this weekend has been rained out. I will try the initial setup i posted before and also try to use your setup as well for next months race. Thanks for the great info.

Dayten

wyd-what size pulleys where you using for the back and the front? Was it the 15 tooth pulleys? Also where you using a one way or a torque splitter in the front gear box?

Macky

Hey Wyd congrats on the car. Glad to hear it's doing good for you. I got the package from you last week. Thanks again. By the way I found a few more parts if your interested.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Macky if you want to send me the stuff I will pay you for that stuff as well. The car was great and I really had the TA04 guys realing after they saw a TA03 under the body. Great car and for me even better than the F series.

Dayten I ran the stock 15 tooth pulleys. I did run the torque splitter in all my runs but one. The one I didn't was actually my cleanest run without the torque splitter and I ran my best time but it was my only really clean run. The car worked about the same with and without the splitter. I put in in for the main again. My fastest lap time with the splitter was 10.8 vs 10.9 without the splitter. The only reason I might not run the splitter in the TCS race is so I can use the brakes on the tight track we are going to be running. Not sure yet what I will do. I would like to have a front one way diff to try that with the torque splitter and see what happens. I would also like th try the splitter that overdrives the front to make it 2wd alot sooner. I had great corner speed so I just need to work on a little quicker acceleration. That I think I will do with a better motor as my P2K is 3 years old and some better packs which I will wire up this week.

Bitoy

Psycho;

I already tried runnin' my car with loose diffs but i always ended up with 360s at the corners, seems i can't get the proper ride in her, well, goin' for another test run with it. The rally race we're having here is on flat asphalt with few jumps and struts, so no problema with dirt and pebbles but debries from loose asphalts, but i can manage the hassles, the real problem is in the front end coz everytime i took the jumps she always kisses the ground nose first. Can you help me on this. Thanx Bro.

Here is my setup:

.Castor Oil with 1 hole piston in all Corners ( The stuff we used to mix gas in the Nitro dept.)
.Flourescent Red in front and light blue in the rear with no swaybars
.Rally Block Tires in 26 dia. Wheels
.Dyna Run Stock/Sport Tuned Motor
.2400/1700 Batts in 20T/0.6 gears
.10mm ride front/8mm rear

Is it ok?

Dayten

Bitoy-it depends on what you want the car to do. I usaully tighten the diff all the way down the I back it off like 1/8 of a turn. If you want the cars front end to pull the car the front diff should be tighter then the back. If you want the car to push a bit your rear diff needs to be tighter than the front. Guys correct me if I am wrong.

With the nose diving try a stiffer spring up front and also a heavier oil.

Wyd-Thanks for the info. Good luck at the TCS race, hope you kick some a$$ with that 03.

psycho

Bitoy

I don't really have any experience with setting up a rally car, but I'd imagine it would set up much like a buggy. Harder spings and thicker oil would make the car handle better in the turns, but you'll need to run pretty soft because of the jumps and bumps. I think you're on the right track, though. Have you marked your tires and set your camber based on tire wear? I would do that. You'll probably need to use a paint marker to see anything useful. The car wasn't designed to run as high as you are probably running it, so your camber is probably not right for the way the car is running. It could be that you are losing grip in a strange way and that's what's sending the car around. You might have to adjust the camber link somehow to compensate for the large amount of suspension travel your are running. I would probably bounce some of these questions off of a rally thread. You might try to fashion some sort of bump stop on the frontend or mount some kydex pads on the bottom of the front bumper to take the hit instead of the graphite of your chassis. That sounds like a cool project. Let us know how it goes for you.

psycho

Dayten

I talked to the guys at Castle today and they said the race that was rained out will be rescheduled for 4/14. The normally scheduled race is the 21st, so that's 2 weeks in a row of electric! 3 weeks in a row if you race nitro.

Dayten

Psycho-That's cool. I would really like to put in some track time since I have no track time at all for sedans. I will be trying WYD's setup using a saddle pack chassis that I had on my Pro. I have to still get my Yokomo Medium Sprints with Medium inserts. I went to castle after work that other time and by that time, they were all out of medium inserts. Have you tried this combo before Yokomo Medium Sprints with HPI Red(med/soft) inserts? I bought a set(4) of HPI Red inserts. Lee suggested using those inserts with the Pits that I have.

Wyd-Good luck at the TCS. Show those guys what a TA03 can do.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Dayten I will try my best. I think I will make the A main but after that in the main hell will break loose. The track is a little small and with 10 cars it will be like the old Rockem Sockem Robots. It will be interesting to say the least. I will try to put on a good showing for all the TA03 guys on here.

Let me know how that setup works on your car. I'm interested to see how it works for another car and driver. I hope it is dialed for you as it is for me.

psycho

Dayten

I don't usually buy HPI inserts because they cost more than comparable inserts. As I recall, the HPI reds feel about the same as Yok mediums. It's worth a shot, though. Just make sure you stay online with those 27's! You might also pick up the medium Sprints with med inserts when you see them. I'm sure you won't have a problem with that combo.

Bitoy

Psycho;

Thanks for the tip on cambers, i slightly decrease to -4 on all corners and less toe-in in front with the same suspensions she had before. Yah, she can beat the corners easily, seems she was nailed to the track. as for the nose divings i can't think of any possible solution to that since we are not allowed to make modifications and we can't use anything that wasn't designed for the kit. Tamiya rules here is so strick, well that's what they say. But for me, think organizers here are just being fair to all of us racers.