DirtyDog3375

iTrader: (37)

I know it doesn't help you after the damage has been done.....but you need to always thread the arms first with a 'threading screw' or a steel screw before putting in alum./ti. parts, this is due to the composite plastics that are used in our cars these days. (ie. just like the JRXS has a specific screw for that car to 'tap' out all of the composite arms and other components).

My 2 cents worth.

Arctic

Since I haven't seen any pictures from battery side of MR edition could someone with the car verify if Team Orion/Peak Platinum LiPo 4800 fits now ?

I understood that with MSX this was not possible or it would require some serious dremeling to rear bulkhead..

XrayFK

iTrader: (1)

Tamiya sells a different bulkhead designed to accept stick packs, the Orion pack will fit in that one.

Ben.C

Nope the MRE's rear bulkhead is the same as the MSX. So it wouldn't fit the LiPo pack.

You could use XrayFK's suggestion of getting the MSX stick pack conversion. But its gonna cost you...

axle182

iTrader: (18)

HG,

I broke off an alloy ball stud in an alloy rear hub a few weeks back. thought it was a throw away, but managed to save it. Use the smallest drill bit you have, and try to drill down the centre of the alloy in the hole. I actually got mine perfect centre. So all thats left is a thin thread or coil of alloy. I then hit a tiny screw driver, its end has to be a little bigger than the drill hole, but not as wide as the arm hole, hit it hard enough to dig a deep groove, or better yet, get the screw driver stuck in the alloy hole, and wind it out. Worked a treat for me and didnt damage the alloy upright at all (put on a steel ball after that! lol).

As someone already mentioned, you need to use any steel or preferably Ti screw with the same pitch to create a thread in the holes. Its a pain but only needs to be done once to tap the thread.

Rick Draper

I will shortly be selling my 415 MSX that has been fitted with the new steering. Never had chance to run the car due to work. If anyone is interested in just the steering, chassis and top deck please email me.

JayL

either drill it, as has been said.. or just flip both rear arms....the shock mount is only half a hole away so not much change....

crunchracer

Rick I just sent you a PM

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Well I tried "drilling the thing out" and made a big old mess ...so for now I just flipped the arms over and will use the outside hole on the 2 hole side, although I have spares ordered from Champ, so should get them before I am gonna do her "virgin run" (08/12). I think what I'm gonna do is mount the shocks the way I have been monting them on my Xray and Corally (been using tamiya shocks on those cars) with a setup like this (obviosly no nut on the bottom portion):



If I just slap the shocks on a ball stud, I've had issues where the shocks popoff when I get nailed with all the hacks I race with

...here's pics of the progress so far, car is going together so smooth, I only had 2 titanium turnbuckles so I stopped at that step till I pick up some more today.

JayL

Harsh: I have never had a shock pop off...and I've been hit full speed by a certain cyclone runner on the straight they really don't pop off, you are just adding weight

Runin Ronin

iTrader: (12)

As HarshGuy stated... the guy that hit you isn't the same hacks that AIM for HarshGuy

JayL

ya , when your the 2nd fastest old guy everyone is gunning for you

still...Corrally belts pop off, Tamiya shock do not

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Harsh - one thing, isn't the screw that goes through the motor mount into the center brace ment to be counter sunk?
It is on the MSX, maybe different on the MRE though.
Cheers
Ed

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

...um ...I'm not sure!! I'll double check it when I get home today

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

Yea, should be... has to be flush where the motor sits. looks like you can jsut make out the edge of the bevel in the pic...

hopefully mine will be here this week... thanks to Champ!

Wes