Originally Posted by Mr-s413bt

Heya GUys.


Heres the link.

http://www.thard.co.uk/rc/TRF415/setups/ashby(MSX).jpg

Except i ran D and D on the front and b and D on the rear!

I just can't seem to get it to turn/grip mid corner.......

CS-27's, track is medium traction, ashphalt.


Glenn

Originally Posted by junn

Hi

I just received the DJ pro suspension set for my 415. I have put them on the car but they arent as big as the other arms and so spacers are needed to stop them from sliding around. What have I done wrong? do I need to buy something else so they will fit? or do I use spacers? BTW its the standard 415 not 415 MS.

Can anyone suggest any settings for a 415 with the MSX upgrade and the DJ Pro suspension?

What are the 46mm driveshafts for? Is anyone running ceramic bearings in their 415? I would like to know what they are like

Originally Posted by Ballsie

I was speaking to Darren at Titanium Racing today and he tells me about using the Pro4 knuckles on the MS / MSX?

Is this fairly simple to do as I've bought the TiR Pro4/415MS CVD's and a set of Pro4 knuckes.

Will they fit directly or will I need to do some trimmming?

Cheers.

Alan

Originally Posted by Customworksking

yah I also have 0 hubs I run .5 deg for stock the less toe the faster/freer ..this will be the 1st time I try the same tire all around I see everyone runs sorex24's what u think CS22 or CS27's...I ran 27 ft 22 rear in stock..thanks

Originally Posted by jw92656

Just ran into this post. I was working on my car trying get it setup for the SoCal GrandPrix. I am running the MSX kit, and read a few posts here about the steering problem. I think I have found a minor design flaw in the 415, that the EVO4 (I also own) doesn't have. Look at the carbon link for the two aluminum, center steering arms. On the 415 the outer bolt heads that hold the ball stud hit the aluminum arm before the steering knuckle car go full lock to the left and the right. I had my car all set up last night, and was going through the EPA on my radio when I noticed it hitting the bolt, and not turn all the way. I have tried repositioning the carbon bracket with no luck. The only thing I can think of is to somehow extend out the bracket about 3-4mm and adjust the toe accordingly it will allow the arm to go full lock to lock. I am also considering tapping a ball stud to the top of the plastic hub, and seperating the hub carrier bolts, from the steering knuckle. I suspect under load there is a binding effect going on here.

Originally Posted by TRF415boy

This is alright since you're not supposed to go to full lock in any situation other than turning around if you face the wrong way. If you have to go to full lock during a lap then i suggest you adjust your setup to get more steering or get on a decent size track (lol).

Originally Posted by jw92656

Thanks for the tip. I know I am not supposed to go to full lock, thats why I was adjusting the EPA on my radio, but when I have a few friends who have steering issues at our local track, I know it's me. I have some Square Racing steering knuckles with 3 holes. Going to see if this gives me more turn, or try the HPI knuckles. P.S. At the Tamiya HQ the car works great, but at SoCal when it's tight, it sucks compared to my X-Ray. I love my Tamiya's, I just hate having to hunt down a decent setup.

Originally Posted by TRF415boy

As for top speed, in my opinion top speed only depends on how quick you're entering the straight. When I was running stock last year, people kept on asking what motor i had, yet it was just an out of the box monster. I was quicker than most in the straight only because i was making the best out of before the straight (and I was running 2.5° rear toe).

Originally Posted by F. Alonso

Price from RC Champ for the Refine 2 - 39990 YEN!!! This equates to $461AU which is a bargain I think!!!