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Old 11-01-2005, 03:14 PM   #11056
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I was speaking to Darren at Titanium Racing today and he tells me about using the Pro4 knuckles on the MS / MSX?

Is this fairly simple to do as I've bought the TiR Pro4/415MS CVD's and a set of Pro4 knuckes.

Will they fit directly or will I need to do some trimmming?

Cheers.

Alan
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Old 11-01-2005, 03:35 PM   #11057
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I need a couple of tamiya 415 parts ,i need #3455724 and #51053 anybody that has extra let me know, thanks (have paypal)
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Old 11-01-2005, 04:08 PM   #11058
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Originally Posted by Mr-s413bt
Heya GUys.


Heres the link.

http://www.thard.co.uk/rc/TRF415/setups/ashby(MSX).jpg

Except i ran D and D on the front and b and D on the rear!

I just can't seem to get it to turn/grip mid corner.......

CS-27's, track is medium traction, ashphalt.


Glenn
go to the A-A on the front, or even narrower and this will give a lot more steering. Also go 3 hole pistons, 35wt oil, no insert in the bladder, with std yellow springs. Also traction compound makes a massive difference, what are you using and how are you applying?
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Old 11-01-2005, 04:45 PM   #11059
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I just received the DJ pro suspension set for my 415. I have put them on the car but they arent as big as the other arms and so spacers are needed to stop them from sliding around. What have I done wrong? do I need to buy something else so they will fit? or do I use spacers? BTW its the standard 415 not 415 MS.

Can anyone suggest any settings for a 415 with the MSX upgrade and the DJ Pro suspension?

What are the 46mm driveshafts for? Is anyone running ceramic bearings in their 415? I would like to know what they are like
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:10 PM   #11060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junn
Hi

I just received the DJ pro suspension set for my 415. I have put them on the car but they arent as big as the other arms and so spacers are needed to stop them from sliding around. What have I done wrong? do I need to buy something else so they will fit? or do I use spacers? BTW its the standard 415 not 415 MS.

Can anyone suggest any settings for a 415 with the MSX upgrade and the DJ Pro suspension?

What are the 46mm driveshafts for? Is anyone running ceramic bearings in their 415? I would like to know what they are like
The DJ arms are narrower than the standard TA04 arms, so you need some 3mm spacers in the suspension. You need the 46mm driveshafts for the LWT suspension and the DJ rear end.
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:30 PM   #11061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballsie
I was speaking to Darren at Titanium Racing today and he tells me about using the Pro4 knuckles on the MS / MSX?

Is this fairly simple to do as I've bought the TiR Pro4/415MS CVD's and a set of Pro4 knuckes.

Will they fit directly or will I need to do some trimmming?

Cheers.

Alan
Ballsie. Using the HPI Pro 4 knuckles allowed full lock-to-lock on the steering then. I'll look into it tonight, and post my findings tomorrow.
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:54 PM   #11062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
yah I also have 0 hubs I run .5 deg for stock the less toe the faster/freer ..this will be the 1st time I try the same tire all around I see everyone runs sorex24's what u think CS22 or CS27's...I ran 27 ft 22 rear in stock..thanks
This is not always true. Look at what you're using : 0.5 toe with much harder tyres on front, basically you're loosing overall grip and so corner speed. We'd use CS22 all round, 1 or 1.5 toe in and adjust the amount of additive on the front tyres, from no additive to 3/4 tyre or even full additive if required. This way we get the most grip without the car being too hard to drive.

As for top speed, in my opinion top speed only depends on how quick you're entering the straight. When I was running stock last year, people kept on asking what motor i had, yet it was just an out of the box monster. I was quicker than most in the straight only because i was making the best out of before the straight (and I was running 2.5 rear toe).
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:57 PM   #11063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw92656
Just ran into this post. I was working on my car trying get it setup for the SoCal GrandPrix. I am running the MSX kit, and read a few posts here about the steering problem. I think I have found a minor design flaw in the 415, that the EVO4 (I also own) doesn't have. Look at the carbon link for the two aluminum, center steering arms. On the 415 the outer bolt heads that hold the ball stud hit the aluminum arm before the steering knuckle car go full lock to the left and the right. I had my car all set up last night, and was going through the EPA on my radio when I noticed it hitting the bolt, and not turn all the way. I have tried repositioning the carbon bracket with no luck. The only thing I can think of is to somehow extend out the bracket about 3-4mm and adjust the toe accordingly it will allow the arm to go full lock to lock. I am also considering tapping a ball stud to the top of the plastic hub, and seperating the hub carrier bolts, from the steering knuckle. I suspect under load there is a binding effect going on here.
This is alright since you're not supposed to go to full lock in any situation other than turning around if you face the wrong way. If you have to go to full lock during a lap then i suggest you adjust your setup to get more steering or get on a decent size track (lol).
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:20 PM   #11064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
This is alright since you're not supposed to go to full lock in any situation other than turning around if you face the wrong way. If you have to go to full lock during a lap then i suggest you adjust your setup to get more steering or get on a decent size track (lol).
Thanks for the tip. I know I am not supposed to go to full lock, thats why I was adjusting the EPA on my radio, but when I have a few friends who have steering issues at our local track, I know it's me. I have some Square Racing steering knuckles with 3 holes. Going to see if this gives me more turn, or try the HPI knuckles. P.S. At the Tamiya HQ the car works great, but at SoCal when it's tight, it sucks compared to my X-Ray. I love my Tamiya's, I just hate having to hunt down a decent setup.
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:26 PM   #11065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw92656
Thanks for the tip. I know I am not supposed to go to full lock, thats why I was adjusting the EPA on my radio, but when I have a few friends who have steering issues at our local track, I know it's me. I have some Square Racing steering knuckles with 3 holes. Going to see if this gives me more turn, or try the HPI knuckles. P.S. At the Tamiya HQ the car works great, but at SoCal when it's tight, it sucks compared to my X-Ray. I love my Tamiya's, I just hate having to hunt down a decent setup.
I also have the square knuckles. I'm using the front holes on them though and I can go to full lock. One thing that I found, if you pay attention to the way you position the ball nuts on each side of the carbon plate you can get a little more angle. But still, if you're using the stiffener posts on the car the steering posts will bump in them.

On the HPI knuckles David Spashett recommends using the rear ones so that won't solve the problem, only make it worse, unless you're using the rear holes on the tamiya (or square) ones...
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:28 PM   #11066
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Price from RC Champ for the Refine 2 - 39990 YEN!!! This equates to $461AU which is a bargain I think!!!
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:36 PM   #11067
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are you sure about this?? That price seems a little low...

John
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:42 PM   #11068
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That is direct from Champ R/C. They are always the lowest in price that I've seen. Email themselves if you don't believe me. A mate of mine wants one and emailed them for price, etc. He SMSed me an hour ago to tell me, was very excited.
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Old 11-01-2005, 06:46 PM   #11069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRF415boy
As for top speed, in my opinion top speed only depends on how quick you're entering the straight. When I was running stock last year, people kept on asking what motor i had, yet it was just an out of the box monster. I was quicker than most in the straight only because i was making the best out of before the straight (and I was running 2.5 rear toe).
Very true!!!!
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:00 PM   #11070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
Price from RC Champ for the Refine 2 - 39990 YEN!!! This equates to $461AU which is a bargain I think!!!
That is really cheap - $342.35 USD
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