Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I would say you have not prepared the chassis properly then, sand the batt slots until the bottom of the cells are sitting flush with the chassis, once this is dont there is no way the cells can come out.

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

anybody know where I could find some rheinard setup sheets ?

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Good to see ya got ya 415MS now.

I don't think that Rheinard's setups have ever been disclosed from the Worlds. A bummer I know, but I don't think there's anything that we can do about it.

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah lookin forward to running it. It hasn't arrived yet.

yeah I thought that they might not of released it to the public, bugger that. Do you know where i can find any of his asphalt set ups ?? or any good asphalt set ups ??? rubber/mod

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Hey.....

I'm in the process of getting a setup for the car also as I've only had it now for 2 weeks. Check out TryHard's website for some setups. Also... PM me if you'd like the setup that I currently have on my car from the Harris R/C Challenge.

David J.

That’s a good question. Most people tend to relate the droop measurement by the actual distance from ride height that the suspension is allowed to extend and there is nothing wrong with that because it does make sense to think of it this way. Measuring from the top of the axle reflects a totally different number and it does take a little getting used to. However, to get the number you’re looking for, measure the diameter of the tire you plan to use. Let’s say its 63.2mm (Tamiya type A) now divide that in half and you get 31.6mm. Now add 2mm to that (2mm is half the thickness of the wheel axle) and you get 33.6mm. Then take your droop measurement from the top of the axle and subtract it from the 33.6mm. Let’s say you’re running 24.5mm from the top of the axle, your subtracted number is 9.1mm. Finally, subtract your ride height. If you’re running 5mm of ride height, you actual droop is 4.1mm. This is good to know if you’re switching from Sorex to take offs or any tire that has a different diameter, you can precisely account for the change accordingly. Again, good question. “Precision”

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Wow..... very deep but yes, precise. I'll have to give it a go sometime. I've always set the ride height and recorded that down. Then.... got the ride height at the point where the wheels are JUST touching the surface. Then I subtract the ride height from that reading and hey-presto, that's my droop. It's not the best way to do it out there and for sure Dave's would be far more accurate I'd say, but it seems to work for me.

David J.

I only detach the sway bar during the initial setting of droop and if I haven’t set up the sway bars yet because it can affect droop like you mentioned. If you’re setting up a new car, you want to have the sway bars and shocks disconnected and set your droop first. This insures that your left and right arms are set exactly the same height which is critical in order to properly set up you sway bars. Your actual operating droop setting doesn’t even matter at this point as long as the distance from the top of the axle to the tweak board is the same left and right. Once this is set, you can set up you sway bars.

Once your sway bars are set, you shouldn’t have to disconnect them every time you check or set your droop. It is a good idea to check your sway bars periodically though.

red robinhood

david jun my hero [r1 sucks]

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

It's always a work in progress :P

I'm taking the pics and writing up the droop techniques I mentioned in the earlier post.


Kevin...whatha...you lurking on the 415 thread. Don't put tamiya parts on your new JRXS :P The streets of Chicago are not safe this summer any bashers running nitro TCs or MT will be confiscated.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hey David J,
Thanks for the tips on droop, i'll certainly give that a try. Does make perfect sense, and I can understand exactly what you mean about consistency between tyres.

I'd also be interested in how you set up your sway bars. Personally I've rarely used them, but it would certainly be interesting to find out what's the best way. Is it a case of keeping them perfectly level when mounting them on the car?

Regards
Ed

Ill Factor

iTrader: (2)

Do you know the part # for that battery strap?

Also what do you use to keep it mounted to the chassis? It would seem like if you used a screw it would protrude from the bottom of the chassis.

David J.

Sway bars are a nice way to control weight transfer. If you decide to use them, begin by disconnecting them and remove your shocks. Then set your droop or just make the axle heights equal (calipers). Your suspension is now equal and you can connect the sway bars. To set them, slowly compress either arm as you watch the other to see the amount of free play before the opposite arm rises. More than likely, one side will have more free play than the other so you want to adjust the length of the linkage rods accordingly until the amount of free play is equal. You can also adjust the free play on the sway bar mounts as well by rotating the sway bar clips enough to reduce slop. Just don’t go overboard. The Evo IV uses grub screws for this. Then you can re-install your shocks.

Also, other things to check:

Shock lengths (make sure the left and right shocks are the same length)
Shock tower ball ends (make sure they are the same distance to the tweak board)
Springs (make sure they are the same length left to right. Sometimes they’re not)


Red Robinhood Yamaha is the best!

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

thanks david.
You mention that the sway bars are good at controling the weight transfer. I always thought that they stiffen up the car as well?
For example.
If i'm currently running white springs on the front with no sway bars, would it be similar running blue springs with a red roll bar?
When would you suggest running them?
(smooth/bumpy, tight & twisty/flowing)
I'm just interested to know, as it would give some more tuning options for myself... most racers over here that i know of don't use them... don't know if it's cause the tracks are more bumpy or what.

Thanks again.
Ed

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

Great way to do it. Seems the most accurate way to do it. tried it this morning and it worked great