143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
01-07-2015, 03:51 AM
#7741
Tech Initiate
(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
01-07-2015, 03:59 AM
#7742
Tech Fanatic
01-07-2015, 05:33 AM
#7743
I am going to run the DR/L6 dampers on the new chassis. Was looking for a bit of help on trying to emulate the same feel as what I am currently running, car is working very well using Josh's set-up with a few changes.
My current damper/spring setting are;
Front A-5.0 B-6.0 = 64.7gf/mm
Rear A-5.4 B-5.6 = 69.1gf/mm
(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
My current damper/spring setting are;
Front A-5.0 B-6.0 = 64.7gf/mm
Rear A-5.4 B-5.6 = 69.1gf/mm
(car is working well, I like the way it feels, however, I do think it is on the edge of traction rolling-if I clip a dot, it rolls easily.)
Right now your guess are as good as ours. It is really early days for everyone w/ the car. You'll have to run a low "A" gap in order to ensure they remain straight on the car --- as the AM17{l|r} will not be in contact with the C01AL-S2 chassis 'notch' after 3.6mm of "A" gap
For flipping--
Decreasing your "A" or "B" would make sense
Focusing your changes on the rear of the car often provides the most benefit. I would just reduce your Rear "A" gap by 1mm to 1.4mm.
1- getting the right information on what to change... as there is a lot of bad info out there.
2- which change to prioritize
01-07-2015, 09:05 AM
#7744
For the new chassis--
Right now your guess are as good as ours. It is really early days for everyone w/ the car. You'll have to run a low "A" gap in order to ensure they remain straight on the car --- as the AM17{l|r} will not be in contact with the C01AL-S2 chassis 'notch' after 3.6mm of "A" gap
For flipping--
Decreasing your "A" or "B" would make sense
Focusing your changes on the rear of the car often provides the most benefit. I would just reduce your Rear "A" gap by 1mm to 1.4mm.
There are many potential solutions for traction roll. The challenge is often
1- getting the right information on what to change... as there is a lot of bad info out there.
2- which change to prioritize
Right now your guess are as good as ours. It is really early days for everyone w/ the car. You'll have to run a low "A" gap in order to ensure they remain straight on the car --- as the AM17{l|r} will not be in contact with the C01AL-S2 chassis 'notch' after 3.6mm of "A" gap
For flipping--
Decreasing your "A" or "B" would make sense
Focusing your changes on the rear of the car often provides the most benefit. I would just reduce your Rear "A" gap by 1mm to 1.4mm.
There are many potential solutions for traction roll. The challenge is often
1- getting the right information on what to change... as there is a lot of bad info out there.
2- which change to prioritize
I will try setting the gaps as such;
Front A-3.0 B-4.2=65.1gf/mm
Rear A-3.4 B-3.8=69.8gf/mm
Will see how that feels compared to my old set-up. It should solve the flipping issue I think. I do have a new set of DL/R6 dampers, could try those with the softer A gaps, this may work as well.
Going to a big race this weekend, traction should be way higher than what I run on normally, so the softer setting should help, and I can try softening the springs as well. (was just looking at your set ups, it is very close to what I am running, with the exception of I am running some reactive front castor, and you are way softer on the springs/dampening) Will play with it, but I am starting to understand how this car works, and I like it. I've never been faster!
01-07-2015, 09:36 AM
#7745
the best suggestion is to try some big 'swings' in different directions until you get closer to a setup that feels right. you have to capitalize on the strengths of the given platform. the fact that with the help of a friend and a 1.5mm and 2.0mm driver you can change droop and dampening w/o leaving the stand is very important. in one battery pack you can potentially make some big changes and quickly dial yourself in (or out).
01-07-2015, 10:41 AM
#7746
Going to a big race this weekend, traction should be way higher than what I run on normally, so the softer setting should help, and I can try softening the springs as well. (was just looking at your set ups, it is very close to what I am running, with the exception of I am running some reactive front castor, and you are way softer on the springs/dampening) Will play with it, but I am starting to understand how this car works, and I like it. I've never been faster!
Jake D.
01-07-2015, 10:55 AM
#7747
If the race you are talking about is the WCICS / IROCC race in Victoria Canada this weekend I'm attempting to be there albeit a little late on Friday. Look me up and I'll give as much support as I can. That goes for anyone running our car. 58 stock TC entries and 27 mod TC , should be another great event !
Jake D.
Jake D.
01-07-2015, 12:26 PM
#7748
the best suggestion is to try some big 'swings' in different directions until you get closer to a setup that feels right. you have to capitalize on the strengths of the given platform. the fact that with the help of a friend and a 1.5mm and 2.0mm driver you can change droop and dampening w/o leaving the stand is very important. in one battery pack you can potentially make some big changes and quickly dial yourself in (or out).
If the race you are talking about is the WCICS / IROCC race in Victoria Canada this weekend I'm attempting to be there albeit a little late on Friday. Look me up and I'll give as much support as I can. That goes for anyone running our car. 58 stock TC entries and 27 mod TC , should be another great event !
Jake D.
Jake D.
01-07-2015, 12:52 PM
#7749
01-07-2015, 03:20 PM
#7750
Tech Master
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Yep, need to just try things. I never looked at it this way, you are right, very easy to do changes track side! One thing that just came to mind, it would be very useful if there was marks on the underside of the chassis at the damper cut-outs to set the dampers quickly track side.
01-07-2015, 05:39 PM
#7751
Hey Hanulec, i found this old pic on your instagram (awesome pics btw!)
http://instagram.com/p/jS1XmeGY9V/
I have the same servo and servo saver from Xray, do you remember the thickness of shims you put the bring the servo back a little?
d'oh! in my excitement i missed the 1.75mm!
http://instagram.com/p/jS1XmeGY9V/
I have the same servo and servo saver from Xray, do you remember the thickness of shims you put the bring the servo back a little?
d'oh! in my excitement i missed the 1.75mm!
01-07-2015, 06:08 PM
#7752
Got my parts today to update my car. Needless to say, I have no assembly manual. Need guidance on the motor mount, how is it shimmed? Are there any shims between the chassis and AM73-1?
Also, there is no hole in the chassis for the center screw of AM08-1, does it just get held down by the damper screws now?
Also, there is no hole in the chassis for the center screw of AM08-1, does it just get held down by the damper screws now?
01-07-2015, 06:19 PM
#7753
http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/motor-mount-2-mm2.html
For the central screw of the AM08-1 you don't need it and if you are lazy like me you will appreciate to unscrew just one screw to adjust the shocks
For the central screw of the AM08-1 you don't need it and if you are lazy like me you will appreciate to unscrew just one screw to adjust the shocks
01-07-2015, 07:07 PM
#7754
Got my parts today to update my car. Needless to say, I have no assembly manual. Need guidance on the motor mount, how is it shimmed? Are there any shims between the chassis and AM73-1?
Also, there is no hole in the chassis for the center screw of AM08-1, does it just get held down by the damper screws now?
Also, there is no hole in the chassis for the center screw of AM08-1, does it just get held down by the damper screws now?
http://www.awesomatixusa.com/p/motor-mount-2-mm2.html
01-08-2015, 09:31 AM
#7755
no matter what i do my diff leaks from the right out drive ,i have tried black grease, green slime and i thought it was coming from the set scre but i sealed it with loctite and it still leaks like crazy . is there a better oring that fits in there? or is it possible that the diff case is defective? such pretty diff just need to keep oil in it