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Old 01-26-2009, 02:13 PM
  #196  
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I've seen locally a FT TC4 do very well in VTA - ITF or carbon double-deck chassis

I've heard of some racers removing the side standoff/chassis braces to help give the chassis some flex. You could also remove the top deck or put rubber o-rings between the standoffs and top deck to allow some flex.

I'd be interested to hear what type of setup you were using on your FT TC4.
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BadSign
If your not using the tires again, I'd try acetone first. Boiling or baking may warp the rims.
Thanks, I will give that a shot. I don't plan on using the tires again, just the rims....
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Old 01-26-2009, 04:23 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by lp3233
Did you have any fitment issues with the pinion. I have 69 48p spur so I may try that.
You have to do some creative dremel work on the chassis where the motor cam fits into, the motor cam itself, and motor clamp to allow it to rotate further away from the spur gear. You also need to dremel out some clearance in two of the chassis webs for the larger pinion. I also needed to dremel just a bit from the lower opening to clear the motor can.

I was able to get it to fit with the 72t spur and 40t pinion figuring that would be the worst case scenario.

IMO, I don't believe any of the dremel work is detrimental to the chassis or motor mounts if you are careful.

Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer

The smallest 48 pitch spur that I'm aware of is a 60 that is made by Robinson Racing. It is available on Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEY18&P=7).
Good tip, I missed that one when I perused Robinson's site.
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:21 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by danketchpel
You have to do some creative dremel work on the chassis where the motor cam fits into, the motor cam itself, and motor clamp to allow it to rotate further away from the spur gear. You also need to dremel out some clearance in two of the chassis webs for the larger pinion. I also needed to dremel just a bit from the lower opening to clear the motor can.

I was able to get it to fit with the 72t spur and 40t pinion figuring that would be the worst case scenario.

IMO, I don't believe any of the dremel work is detrimental to the chassis or motor mounts if you are careful.



Good tip, I missed that one when I perused Robinson's site.
I guess I acted too fast. I ordered a 41 pionion at my LHS. Maybe I will go for the 60 spur next.
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Old 01-27-2009, 08:11 AM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer
I've seen locally a FT TC4 do very well in VTA - ITF or carbon double-deck chassis

I've heard of some racers removing the side standoff/chassis braces to help give the chassis some flex. You could also remove the top deck or put rubber o-rings between the standoffs and top deck to allow some flex.

I'd be interested to hear what type of setup you were using on your FT TC4.
I wasn't going to use the FTtc4 chassis car but may have to if my dremeling don't work...Like Danketch stated the motor cam needs some dremeling on the std TC4 chassis so the motor can move further from the spur. Need to trim some of the 'webbing' out, not much. Without trimming the motormount or cam down a 88/52pin combo won't fit. ..a 49 pin would fit but fdr won't be want I want for the 21.5.

If it still don't work I'll run the FT chassis w/o braces and/or remove the top deck completely.

I'll post my findings...
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Old 01-27-2009, 08:35 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by speedsterblade
I wasn't going to use the FTtc4 chassis car but may have to if my dremeling don't work...Like Danketch stated the motor cam needs some dremeling on the std TC4 chassis so the motor can move further from the spur. Need to trim some of the 'webbing' out, not much. Without trimming the motormount or cam down a 88/52pin combo won't fit. ..a 49 pin would fit but fdr won't be want I want for the 21.5.

If it still don't work I'll run the FT chassis w/o braces and/or remove the top deck completely.

I'll post my findings...
Try an 84 tooth spur from PRS with one of their 48 tooth pinions. They work perfectly and get the gap between pinion and spur right in the ballpark.
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:52 AM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Try an 84 tooth spur from PRS with one of their 48 tooth pinions. They work perfectly and get the gap between pinion and spur right in the ballpark.
May have to... too bad cause I got plenty of 88t spurs sittin in the tool box. Going to try mod'n the motor cam/mount first.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:06 AM
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How much weight do you guys typically need to add to balance the TC3 ??

I put 2 mini scales under the chassis (wheels off) with no battery in the car (21.5 Novak motor). The motor side is about 4 oz. heavier than the empty battery side. My LiPo pack is around 8 oz. (I think?) -- so when I put that in I'm going to have to add like 4 oz. of lead to the motor side ?? Is that typical ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:32 AM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench
How much weight do you guys typically need to add to balance the TC3 ??

I put 2 mini scales under the chassis (wheels off) with no battery in the car (21.5 Novak motor). The motor side is about 4 oz. heavier than the empty battery side. My LiPo pack is around 8 oz. (I think?) -- so when I put that in I'm going to have to add like 4 oz. of lead to the motor side ?? Is that typical ?

Thanks.
I'd take it into the shop and use Blain's gravity balancing pins. That's what I'm going to try tonight on my TC3 to get it that much closer. Jim had found in the TC3 he was torturing everyone with that it didn't require much balance wise. I'll be there around 5 tonight even though its truck night.

John
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I'd take it into the shop and use Blain's gravity balancing pins. That's what I'm going to try tonight on my TC3 to get it that much closer. Jim had found in the TC3 he was torturing everyone with that it didn't require much balance wise. I'll be there around 5 tonight even though its truck night.

John
OK... cool. I'll swing by the shop on my way home from work, but probably won't be there until around 6 pm.

Hmmm... gravity balancing pins ? Do they run on dylithium crystals ??
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:21 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench
OK... cool. I'll swing by the shop on my way home from work, but probably won't be there until around 6 pm.

Hmmm... gravity balancing pins ? Do they run on dylithium crystals ??
Only on the Enterprise.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:50 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by danketchpel
You have to do some creative dremel work on the chassis where the motor cam fits into, the motor cam itself, and motor clamp to allow it to rotate further away from the spur gear. You also need to dremel out some clearance in two of the chassis webs for the larger pinion. I also needed to dremel just a bit from the lower opening to clear the motor can.
Here's some pix of the dremel work I did.







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Old 01-28-2009, 11:53 PM
  #208  
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A question for those running the Novak Havoc ESC, what seems to work better for the throttle profile, linear or exponential?
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:38 AM
  #209  
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NICE work Dan. Does the additional cam work give you more motor rotation on the cam itself?
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Old 01-29-2009, 08:54 AM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by danketchpel
A question for those running the Novak Havoc ESC, what seems to work better for the throttle profile, linear or exponential?
I just received my Havoc system and haven't set it up yet, but I have other speedos with throttle profile options. I tend to prefer linear and to let my trigger finger have direct control. I think it's a matter of personal taste and style though.
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