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Old 05-18-2009, 11:28 PM   #1111
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Well, I just got done balancing my 009. I took the Xray weights off, and went back to the manutech lipo tray. With the car all weighted up, the battery side was a bit heavier... so I slowly but surely drilled out the tapped holes in the tray one by one, larger and larger, until the car perfectly balanced out. Now the car is 100% balanced left to right, and I don't have a single lead weight taped to the car. That, and the fact that the majority of the weight of the manutech tray actually sits INSIDE the battery holes in the chassis, lowering CG... im convinced its the way to go.
Nice! Whats your cars weight? Ready to go....
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:06 AM   #1112
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I have made my own lipo tray out of lead sheeting for my car and it fits perfectly. It has the added benefit that it can be adjusted for weight easily on top of costing next to nothing. And if you use lipo packs with dimples on the bottom as I do, you can add a raised section in the middle that will keep the battery from moving sideways around corners or in a crash.
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:37 AM   #1113
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Default steering is full-lock L or R seems belt is hitting pinion

this is a new build and completing setup.

when I am steering full-lock left or right why does the middle belt seem "hop/vibrate" and hit the pinion at 25%-50% throttle applied and not vibrate/hop and does not hit pinion when steering is at neutral?

remind you I am not using the ECS drive shafts (all stock)

thanks in advance
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:25 AM   #1114
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this is a new build and completing setup.

when I am steering full-lock left or right why does the middle belt seem "hop/vibrate" and hit the pinion at 25%-50% throttle applied and not vibrate/hop and does not hit pinion when steering is at neutral?

remind you I am not using the ECS drive shafts (all stock)

thanks in advance
When you are driving the car you should never be at full lock of steering throw. You want to drive the car and set it up so that you do not have to go full lock to get the car to turn. Also when the drive train is under a load the belt hop will change also. Part of it is due to the full lock and the cvd's are binding.
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:29 AM   #1115
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Nice! Whats your cars weight? Ready to go....
No clue, i don't have a scale. All I know is that I am perfectly balanced left to right, and didn't have to tape a single lead weight to my car. My drilled lipo tray+lipo weighs the exact same (leverage included) as the electronics on the opposite side.

Something else I want to talk about a bit.. is just how you go about determining that your car IS balanced. I myself use the two balancing buttons, that are round on the bottom, like half circles. Now, if you notice, there are actually TINY little flat spots on the very bottom of the buttons. That flat spot holds enough resistance to hold up the heavier side of the car, by almost 20 grams.

What I mean by that, is that even when my car was 20 or more grams off from one side to the other... i could STILL get the car to sit perfectly level all by itself with those balance buttons. That doesn't mean it's balanced!. What I did was take off all 4 wheels, crouch down so that the ass of the car was eye level... and just rock the car back and forth across the center of the balance buttons. Using a bit of rocking momentum (just a tad) you can actually feel/see which side still holds more weight. Eventually, after drilling out enough weight on the tray, It would rock equally back and forth, and balance perfectly in the center.

This might be old news to some of you... but not me. Good luck.

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Old 05-19-2009, 09:59 AM   #1116
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You really do not need absolute balance from left to right. Adjusting the tweak of the car by individual ride height at each wheel will finish the car off. The Pro sedan racers do not go through the pains you are to get a perfect balance of the car. I do not think it is as important as good setup and driving.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:13 AM   #1117
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You really do not need absolute balance from left to right. Adjusting the tweak of the car by individual ride height at each wheel will finish the car off. The Pro sedan racers do not go through the pains you are to get a perfect balance of the car. I do not think it is as important as good setup and driving.
So what, that doesnt mean it isn't good to do. It also isn't particularly imortant to have a super clean solder job with a super clean electonics install either, but we do it anyway.

Your flawed logic is assuming that just because one goes to great lenghts to make sure their car is perfectly balanced, that they will for some reason neglect to set the car up really well, and work on becoming a better driver. It just doesn't work that way my friend. I fully understand that driving skill is the most important, and a great setup is next important... that doesn't mean you can't perfectly nail down all the little things that are less important, as well.
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:36 PM   #1118
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So what, that doesnt mean it isn't good to do. It also isn't particularly imortant to have a super clean solder job with a super clean electonics install either, but we do it anyway.
Balance is nice, but excess weight takes away from corner speed and punch and causes your motor/ESC to heat up faster. The ideal way to go about balancing a lipo car is to add weight to the battery side until you hit the weight minimum.

Example: a couple of years ago, Europe implemented the 5cell rule for NiMH in the touring car class. For whatever reason, however, they changed the weight rule to the same minimum used in the 4cell class in Asia - in other words, the weight was reduced too much. If you go back and look at pictures of the pros' cars during that brief era, though, you'll see that they all opted for lightweight cars that were waaaaay off balance...they had super-heavy 1st generation brushless systems on the left, and 5cell packs with zero weight added on the right.

You still want to add some weight to the Lipo side, of course...I just wouldn't try to get the car in perfect balance, because it will probably actually make you slower on the track. Try to find a happy medium.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:00 PM   #1119
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I find the car easy to balance. I added some extra lead in addition to the lipo weights and the car is good to go. It weighs in at 1503.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:05 PM   #1120
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I run a T2 008 with LRP motor/esc, futaba servo + SMC 5000 lipo (280g). We run 1425g weight here and i need to add around 50g to hit it. Mounting position of your lipo is the most important - i made my own offset tray/mount that allows the battery to overhang the side of the chassis around 10mm, also avoiding all the issues people have trying to squeeze the battery under the top deck. Then you can use the 50g to trim up the front to rear balance how you like it. I run the Xray 6cell battery strap cos it's easier and tweak free if you shim it correctly, you could free up even more weight if you wanted the hassle of tape.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:51 PM   #1121
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Balance is nice, but excess weight takes away from corner speed and punch and causes your motor/ESC to heat up faster. The ideal way to go about balancing a lipo car is to add weight to the battery side until you hit the weight minimum.
That is exactly what I did, right? are you saying that even though my car is now exactly 50/50 side to side, that I might be over in total weight? So then would it be better to be slightly heavy but be perfectly balanced, or slightly lighter but not as balanced? I don't have a gram scale to weight my car, so i dont know what it weighs in total.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:26 PM   #1122
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Default rear hubs stripping

i've got a 008, but the 009 thread seams more active.

My problem is, i strip the thread of the rear upright (Part number: 303352) causing the screw to fall out, i have striped 3 in about 2 months. What am i doing wrong and what can i do to stop it? Im thinking about getting the alu ones, but would pefer a cheaper option.

Thanks in advance
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:31 PM   #1123
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i've got a 008, but the 009 thread seams more active.

My problem is, i strip the thread of the rear upright (Part number: 303352) causing the screw to fall out, i have striped 3 in about 2 months. What am i doing wrong and what can i do to stop it? Im thinking about getting the alu ones, but would pefer a cheaper option.

Thanks in advance
Use a longer screw. Keep going longer (each screw 2mm longer than the last) until you hit the axle, then go back one step (or put a 2mm shim on top of the captured end).
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:10 PM   #1124
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Are you saying that even though my car is now exactly 50/50 side to side, that I might be over in total weight? So then would it be better to be slightly heavy but be perfectly balanced, or slightly lighter but not as balanced? I don't have a gram scale to weight my car, so i dont know what it weighs in total.
Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. Better corner speed and better power late in the race.

And if there is no rule for weight at your club, running an underweight and somewhat unbalanced car should be even quicker. Just don't go overboard...there is a point where the car can be too unbalanced. If everything on the car is even and neutral, but it steers differently in one direction, then you of course need to add some ballast.

I haven't had my car perfectly balanced for a while, but the last time I did my car was significantly overweight (that was probably with a T2'007).
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:15 PM   #1125
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Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. Better corner speed and better power late in the race.

And if there is no rule for weight at your club, running an underweight and somewhat unbalanced car should be even quicker. Just don't go overboard...there is a point where the car can be too unbalanced. If everything on the car is even and neutral, but it steers differently in one direction, then you of course need to add some ballast.

I haven't had my car perfectly balanced for a while, but the last time I did my car was significantly overweight (that was probably with a T2'007).
So why run a lipo tray at all? why run the xray weights at all? Why not just be unbalanced?
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