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Old 02-09-2018, 09:30 AM
  #13921  
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Originally Posted by rtebbe
What are the best front and rear wings? I'm new to F1 and just picked up a used CRC WTF1 FC16. I bought and mounted Protoform front and rear wings. Chose Protoform because I liked the matte finish. Unfortunately, after a hard hit into the wall, the rear wing cracked. I want to replace it but I'm hesitant to buy the Protoform since it seems like it might be a bit brittle. I know, I could drive better, too. Before I purchase another, I figured I'd ask the experts!!!

Thanks in advance!
I've found the Protoform front wing and Tamiya F60 front wing to be very durable.
Montech front wings (and rebranded Xray versions) are brittle. Many of us have chipped or broken them.
For rear wings I've found the Montech to be quite good. It has larger screws than some other wings, so the screws don't pull out easily. Tamiya rear wings seem more brittle than their front wings.
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Old 02-09-2018, 09:36 AM
  #13922  
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On our med sized asphalt track, 170', wings are huge

front:
tamiya f60 push city
Ae or Zen nice steering, balanced
Montech too much steering

rear:
AE no rear grip
Xray '15 lot's or rear grip


I carry almost all wings and fine tune with them.

On carpet 100' I don't really notice the wing , as you say. I run a durable non droopy one
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Old 02-10-2018, 02:24 AM
  #13923  
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Ok, Im using the F103 and with the t bar I have the o ring toward the front and the ball mount suspension in the rear. The ball mount comes loose and the t plate moves side to side about 1/8" because of this. Is there a secret to keeping that mount tight and with less play?
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Old 02-10-2018, 09:18 AM
  #13924  
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
Ok, Im using the F103 and with the t bar I have the o ring toward the front and the ball mount suspension in the rear. The ball mount comes loose and the t plate moves side to side about 1/8" because of this. Is there a secret to keeping that mount tight and with less play?
Is the screw backing out? I use a nylock lock nut with a longer screw to secure it. Or you can just use loctite on the screw, but if you do that it's a real pain to remove the screw later because it's hard to hold the pivot.

Mark C.
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Old 02-10-2018, 03:13 PM
  #13925  
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Thats what I dont get. It backed out even with a locknut on top! I'll re tighten it with blue loctite and a new nut. Maybe hitting fewer pipes/walls will help to. Last Wed was rough for me! I broke 2 of the Tamiya wings (which are, of course long discontinued) which has never happened before.
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Old 02-10-2018, 03:45 PM
  #13926  
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Originally Posted by SpeedySST
Thats what I dont get. It backed out even with a locknut on top! I'll re tighten it with blue loctite and a new nut. Maybe hitting fewer pipes/walls will help to. Last Wed was rough for me! I broke 2 of the Tamiya wings (which are, of course long discontinued) which has never happened before.
Sorry for your loss. Sounds like a bad night. What are you going to replace it with?
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Old 02-10-2018, 05:24 PM
  #13927  
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I found more wings (The JS41 Mugen) in Canada so I ordered 3! I have a F1R3 but havent had time to get all the electronics installed and a body painted. Funny though, that wing really is just a bumper and it had no effect on handling.
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Old 02-11-2018, 05:26 PM
  #13928  
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What batteries are you using for rear transverse mounted? The old cells I have a FAR too long!! I found there are "shorty" cells! What is working the best for everyone?

Last edited by Tim Neja; 02-11-2018 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 02-12-2018, 02:56 AM
  #13929  
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Well I found the T-plate issue. It seems the countersunk screw protruded just far enough that I couldnt fully tighten the screw to the ball. A little dremel work with a washer and problem solved!
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:47 AM
  #13930  
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Originally Posted by Tim Neja
What batteries are you using for rear transverse mounted? The old cells I have a FAR too long!! I found there are "shorty" cells! What is working the best for everyone?
Reedy Zappers
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:38 AM
  #13931  
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Originally Posted by Tim Neja
What batteries are you using for rear transverse mounted? The old cells I have a FAR too long!! I found there are "shorty" cells! What is working the best for everyone?
Unless you have an updated charger capable of charging HV, I'd save some money and steer clear of HV battery packs that indicate 3.8V/cell

Look for 3.7V/cell and you'l be able to use your existing lipo charger.

Google "lipo 2s shorty" and you'll find that almost all manufacturers have an offering.

Personally, I have an ongoing love affair with ORION and FANTOM
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Old 02-12-2018, 02:59 PM
  #13932  
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Look at the Turnigy graphene as well. I have one each of the Turnigy and Fantom batteries and cant tell the difference but Chris Hillier indicated that maybe the graphene lipos dont puff arent as high maintenance.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:50 PM
  #13933  
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Fantom batteries are good as well as SMC batteries. For the money SMC’s give you the best bang for the buck. Fantom are a good value as well. I use both with no issues from either one.
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Old 02-12-2018, 05:24 PM
  #13934  
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I found Protek also---seem to have good reviews. Do I need higher capacity for any reason? Like 4900 seems average--but they have a 6000 also. Any reason to get that running F-1 and 25.5 motors? I'm not going to be pulling a lot of amps anyway. Or do the higher C ratings and capacities give better power?
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:23 PM
  #13935  
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I used the Zappers solely for their size, although higher capacity, I don't overcharge them. They run consistent and don't fade. I've never put more than a normal charge into them and they treat me well. Fantom makes a low profile shorty also. The F6 doesn't fit a standard shorty inline, so getting the 1S sized packaged battery was a must.
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