2897Likes1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
10-30-2015, 10:34 PM
Then the experienced guys, who already know how to get all the power down, will start searching for an advantage. I.e. the motor wars begin. The search for that little extra power will lead to 'motor of the week' contests. The costs will suddenly escalate. Or the cheating will begin with 'outlaw' 25.5 motors, especially if there's no ROAR 25.5 list. Even if there is, the cheating will be there.
10-31-2015, 09:32 AM
You guys can do whatever you want. Last week, the local series had their race, most of the cars appeared to be 25.5. We had 8 cars, which is up from like zero. Guys are now talking about buying F1 cars.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
10-31-2015, 09:57 AM
You guys can do whatever you want. Last week, the local series had their race, most of the cars appeared to be 25.5. We had 8 cars, which is up from like zero. Guys are now talking about buying F1 cars.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
Expecting a good turn out for our F1's
Mr. K, I think I stumbled onto a monkey car for carpet, thanks for the tips sir! Some I gotta keep secret cuz these guys are quick. I'll keep you posted
10-31-2015, 10:16 AM
10-31-2015, 01:39 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
Keep the 21.5 in play. Just write it up as 21.5 or higher. Let the driver bolt in the best power for their skill or track conditions. No need to split the class or force a higher turn on everyone.
Just like many motorsports, the specs either designate a Max, Min, or Range.
Just like many motorsports, the specs either designate a Max, Min, or Range.
10-31-2015, 02:11 PM
You guys can do whatever you want. Last week, the local series had their race, most of the cars appeared to be 25.5. We had 8 cars, which is up from like zero. Guys are now talking about buying F1 cars.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
10-31-2015, 06:07 PM
You guys can do whatever you want. Last week, the local series had their race, most of the cars appeared to be 25.5. We had 8 cars, which is up from like zero. Guys are now talking about buying F1 cars.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
25.5 is working out on smaller, indoor tracks. It might not be appropriate for outdoor, 21.5 probably is better. Maybe if you have great participation, and 21.5 is working, stick with that. I just am seeing positive results with 25.5 from here.
I just have concerns about the law of unintended consequences, that's all.
Mark
10-31-2015, 07:37 PM
You guys want slow? Who's ready to race! Let's do this!
Last edited by RCBuddha; 10-31-2015 at 07:52 PM.
11-02-2015, 02:37 PM
Has anyone else tried a 1S setup?
11-02-2015, 03:55 PM
At our club we allow 1s 13.5 it is allowed they are equal to 21.5 2s lap time wise 21.5 has more speed grunt out of the corner and is faster but you are tip toeing around a 13.5 is easier to drive or easier not to over drive and a good 13.5 can be as hard to drive as a 21.5 car. It took a lot of dialing to find the sweet spot in the setup I spent weeks getting the car right.
11-03-2015, 06:42 AM
In all my years of racing I have never understood the 'a larger, more powerful motor will prevent cheating and promote better racing' argument. Sure, a less powerful setup requires that car prep and setup be correct. It also allows a less than ideal car to get around the track and not be as much of a liability to other, faster, better set up cars also running.
25.5 seems to improve the driving dynamics of the car. Very little loss in overall speed but a large improvement in handling feedback for the driver.
Doesn't matter if the motor is 21.5 or 25.5 guys, a driver with a well set up and prepped car will still beat your head in all day. We could be running 8.5 motors and the best car/driver still wins.
As to the cheating/motor war comments. If someone feels it necessary to go to those lengths to win at a club race, then so be it. It's an empty victory, no one is forcing you to open your wallet and buy anything. I've won races both at club level and UF1 level here in the Midwest. Old batteries, tires with 50+ runs on them, less than new ESC. Still got the job done with a good set up and smart driving. I'm fully on board with the switch to 25.5 and think it's the best move to preserve and grow the class.
Just my thoughts, not endorsed by UF1, RCTech, Tamiya, Old Spice, or Kraft Macaroni and Cheese.
Flame away.
11-03-2015, 07:05 AM
Well, whatever we choose, can we at least freeze the rules for a year or two so we can see if they are actually working like we hope?
This constant dickering with the rules is frustrating. Are we a 21.5 class? A 1S 13.5 class? A 25.5 class? A mixture? Arrgh. Sometimes rules stability is just as important, if not more so, than the actual rules themselves for class growth. I saw this in the SCCA where the racers were constantly lobbying for 'rules adjustments' and the result was people were turned off to the class because they were unsure what the rules were going to be next month or next season.
Let's pick a rules set and leave it alone for a while.
Mark
This constant dickering with the rules is frustrating. Are we a 21.5 class? A 1S 13.5 class? A 25.5 class? A mixture? Arrgh. Sometimes rules stability is just as important, if not more so, than the actual rules themselves for class growth. I saw this in the SCCA where the racers were constantly lobbying for 'rules adjustments' and the result was people were turned off to the class because they were unsure what the rules were going to be next month or next season.
Let's pick a rules set and leave it alone for a while.
Mark
Last edited by scirocco14; 11-03-2015 at 07:15 AM.
11-03-2015, 07:14 AM
I race with Drew Ellis at his track in St. Louis. We have been running F1 for a while and have a decent group of guys. We went from 21.5 to 25.5 and was not really any slower, just flat out easier to drive. We have experienced less traction roll issues, less breakage, less tire wear, etc.
And as Johnny Socko said, you can still be very competitive with old equipment. I just recently took 4th at the Halloween Classic with year old tires, that were ringed and glued together from cut sidewalls, and the cheapest 2s shorty pack the shop had at the time, which was a Peak battery. The battery is actually over a year old and was used before when i raced off road. I was not much slower than anyone but Drew in that race.
Speaking of Drew, he recently came back from stock wars where they ran 21.5 F1. He said it was amazing how different it was. We were hesitant to change as well, especially since we all already had really good 21.5's ready for this season. But we are all glad we did.
And as Johnny Socko said, you can still be very competitive with old equipment. I just recently took 4th at the Halloween Classic with year old tires, that were ringed and glued together from cut sidewalls, and the cheapest 2s shorty pack the shop had at the time, which was a Peak battery. The battery is actually over a year old and was used before when i raced off road. I was not much slower than anyone but Drew in that race.
Speaking of Drew, he recently came back from stock wars where they ran 21.5 F1. He said it was amazing how different it was. We were hesitant to change as well, especially since we all already had really good 21.5's ready for this season. But we are all glad we did.
11-03-2015, 07:24 AM
This is exactly what will happen. Why people keep forgetting the development will continue and the speeds will be back to 21.5 speeds in no time by hook or by crook.
In all my years of racing I have never understood the 'a larger, more powerful motor will prevent cheating and promote better racing' argument. Sure, a less powerful setup requires that car prep and setup be correct. It also allows a less than ideal car to get around the track and not be as much of a liability to other, faster, better set up cars also running.
25.5 seems to improve the driving dynamics of the car. Very little loss in overall speed but a large improvement in handling feedback for the driver.
Doesn't matter if the motor is 21.5 or 25.5 guys, a driver with a well set up and prepped car will still beat your head in all day. We could be running 8.5 motors and the best car/driver still wins.
As to the cheating/motor war comments. If someone feels it necessary to go to those lengths to win at a club race, then so be it. It's an empty victory, no one is forcing you to open your wallet and buy anything. I've won races both at club level and UF1 level here in the Midwest. Old batteries, tires with 50+ runs on them, less than new ESC. Still got the job done with a good set up and smart driving. I'm fully on board with the switch to 25.5 and think it's the best move to preserve and grow the class.
Just my thoughts, not endorsed by UF1, RCTech, Tamiya, Old Spice, or Kraft Macaroni and Cheese.
Flame away.
In all my years of racing I have never understood the 'a larger, more powerful motor will prevent cheating and promote better racing' argument. Sure, a less powerful setup requires that car prep and setup be correct. It also allows a less than ideal car to get around the track and not be as much of a liability to other, faster, better set up cars also running.
25.5 seems to improve the driving dynamics of the car. Very little loss in overall speed but a large improvement in handling feedback for the driver.
Doesn't matter if the motor is 21.5 or 25.5 guys, a driver with a well set up and prepped car will still beat your head in all day. We could be running 8.5 motors and the best car/driver still wins.
As to the cheating/motor war comments. If someone feels it necessary to go to those lengths to win at a club race, then so be it. It's an empty victory, no one is forcing you to open your wallet and buy anything. I've won races both at club level and UF1 level here in the Midwest. Old batteries, tires with 50+ runs on them, less than new ESC. Still got the job done with a good set up and smart driving. I'm fully on board with the switch to 25.5 and think it's the best move to preserve and grow the class.
Just my thoughts, not endorsed by UF1, RCTech, Tamiya, Old Spice, or Kraft Macaroni and Cheese.
Flame away.
Anyways, is there any series goin on this winter spring in Illinois? Hopefully gonna run a couple races at Prolevel, just would like to be able to race a few other places as well. Thanks
Travis
O ya, im putting a 25.5 in my car...Don't need extra power in 2wd anything!!!!
11-03-2015, 08:54 AM
Here's an idea, and just spitballing here.
Instead of arguing back and forth trying to decide on the ONE best power system for F1, why not include all three? There is nothing stopping us from having all three different power systems on the track, racing equitably.
Bear with me here.
The general consensus seems to be that each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but in the end the lap times are still very close (unless some of you are lying). The 1S 13.5 and 2S 25.5 power systems are generally easier to drive for beginners, whereas the 2S 21.5 power system requires a little more driver skill to extract its potential.
What if we allowed each of the power systems, with a slightly different weight as an equalizer:
1S / 13.5 @ 1000g
2S / 21.5 @ 1100 g
2S / 25.5 @ 1050g
To make it easier on the tech inspectors, just simply add a sticker on the car or wing sideplates indicating the motor size and minimum weight. This is done in professional car racing now, where the class and minimum weight is on the side of the car. The stickers could be as fancy or simple as you want to make them. You could use computer printed vinyl or the inexpensive dollar store stickers used for yard sales and write in the info in pen.
This way EVERYONE is happy, and we allow a little innovation in F1, just like the real F1 class. This is very inclusive and allows a lot of crossover of power systems into F1, from 1/12th scale and 1/10th scale pan car racers, USVTA and USGT power systems, etc.
Thoughts?
Mark
Instead of arguing back and forth trying to decide on the ONE best power system for F1, why not include all three? There is nothing stopping us from having all three different power systems on the track, racing equitably.
Bear with me here.
The general consensus seems to be that each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but in the end the lap times are still very close (unless some of you are lying). The 1S 13.5 and 2S 25.5 power systems are generally easier to drive for beginners, whereas the 2S 21.5 power system requires a little more driver skill to extract its potential.
What if we allowed each of the power systems, with a slightly different weight as an equalizer:
1S / 13.5 @ 1000g
2S / 21.5 @ 1100 g
2S / 25.5 @ 1050g
To make it easier on the tech inspectors, just simply add a sticker on the car or wing sideplates indicating the motor size and minimum weight. This is done in professional car racing now, where the class and minimum weight is on the side of the car. The stickers could be as fancy or simple as you want to make them. You could use computer printed vinyl or the inexpensive dollar store stickers used for yard sales and write in the info in pen.
This way EVERYONE is happy, and we allow a little innovation in F1, just like the real F1 class. This is very inclusive and allows a lot of crossover of power systems into F1, from 1/12th scale and 1/10th scale pan car racers, USVTA and USGT power systems, etc.
Thoughts?
Mark