1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
#4216
Tech Adept
Sounds like you may have too much front bite and the rear can't hold on. Try tuning for a push and use the esc drag brake to get some forward weight shift for corner entry. Also try loosening the ball diff some so the rear can rotate better through the turns. Also make sure your drive settings in the esc are not too high. Too much initial punch will cause a loose rear end
#4217
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Has anyone tried narrowing the front track and how it affects the handling?
I have an F109 and at my current track grip is very low and I can't find a handling balance I like. I've tried all the different tyre combinations that people recommend but its an unprepared track and I just can't get enough rear grip. The care is drivable (and probably reasonably fast) but I would just like it "nicer" to drive.
I've worked out a way to narrow the front to about 193mm. When I've read specs on other 2WD cars the front track is almost always listed as narrower than the rear so I have been wondering if this is a possible solution
I have an F109 and at my current track grip is very low and I can't find a handling balance I like. I've tried all the different tyre combinations that people recommend but its an unprepared track and I just can't get enough rear grip. The care is drivable (and probably reasonably fast) but I would just like it "nicer" to drive.
I've worked out a way to narrow the front to about 193mm. When I've read specs on other 2WD cars the front track is almost always listed as narrower than the rear so I have been wondering if this is a possible solution
Try:
stiffer front springs
heavier lube on the kingpins
shorter rear shock to reduce rear droop (less off power steering)
lighter shock oil
higher front ride height
sauce full rear tire and only half or less of front
move your tie rods to the inner holes on the servo saver, this will smooth out the ackerman also
#4218
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Don't narrow the front track, this will only increase steering. Don't loosen the diff too much either as this will increase rotation in the corner also.
Try:
stiffer front springs
heavier lube on the kingpins
shorter rear shock to reduce rear droop (less off power steering)
lighter shock oil
higher front ride height
sauce full rear tire and only half or less of front
move your tie rods to the inner holes on the servo saver, this will smooth out the ackerman also
Try:
stiffer front springs
heavier lube on the kingpins
shorter rear shock to reduce rear droop (less off power steering)
lighter shock oil
higher front ride height
sauce full rear tire and only half or less of front
move your tie rods to the inner holes on the servo saver, this will smooth out the ackerman also
We've even been widening the front track width with shims to smooth it out as well as the 3.5 offset front spindles.
When all else fails, a tiny bead of super glue around outside edge of tire tread/contact patch.
I've been to the point where a medium front compound is too much steering and a bit firmer is useless so I've had good luck with the CA glue.
As said above, the higher front ride height (motorboat), light shock oil and super free rear articulation, short top deck and FRP chassis for excessive flex etc. all help on the crappy surfaces.
#4219
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
i'm guessing guys are using airplane monokote for the wings? and i guess there's a green close ot the tamiya color?
i hate all the newbie questions, but last one i did was ferarri red and i painted the wings white - which, conviently enough, flaked off from collisions and i'd like this one to actually look (AND STAY) nice
#4220
Tech Master
All of the above help settle down my car when tires are no help anymore.
We've even been widening the front track width with shims to smooth it out as well as the 3.5 offset front spindles.
When all else fails, a tiny bead of super glue around outside edge of tire tread/contact patch.
I've been to the point where a medium front compound is too much steering and a bit firmer is useless so I've had good luck with the CA glue.
As said above, the higher front ride height (motorboat), light shock oil and super free rear articulation, short top deck and FRP chassis for excessive flex etc. all help on the crappy surfaces.
We've even been widening the front track width with shims to smooth it out as well as the 3.5 offset front spindles.
When all else fails, a tiny bead of super glue around outside edge of tire tread/contact patch.
I've been to the point where a medium front compound is too much steering and a bit firmer is useless so I've had good luck with the CA glue.
As said above, the higher front ride height (motorboat), light shock oil and super free rear articulation, short top deck and FRP chassis for excessive flex etc. all help on the crappy surfaces.
#4221
Tech Master
Has anyone tried narrowing the front track and how it affects the handling?
I have an F109 and at my current track grip is very low and I can't find a handling balance I like. I've tried all the different tyre combinations that people recommend but its an unprepared track and I just can't get enough rear grip. The care is drivable (and probably reasonably fast) but I would just like it "nicer" to drive.
I've worked out a way to narrow the front to about 193mm. When I've read specs on other 2WD cars the front track is almost always listed as narrower than the rear so I have been wondering if this is a possible solution
I have an F109 and at my current track grip is very low and I can't find a handling balance I like. I've tried all the different tyre combinations that people recommend but its an unprepared track and I just can't get enough rear grip. The care is drivable (and probably reasonably fast) but I would just like it "nicer" to drive.
I've worked out a way to narrow the front to about 193mm. When I've read specs on other 2WD cars the front track is almost always listed as narrower than the rear so I have been wondering if this is a possible solution
All of the f1 chassis seem to like different tires. The tires from a 104 103 109 and fgx will all be different to get that car hooked up.
#4222
#4223
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Don't narrow the front track, this will only increase steering. Don't loosen the diff too much either as this will increase rotation in the corner also.
Try:
stiffer front springs
heavier lube on the kingpins
shorter rear shock to reduce rear droop (less off power steering)
lighter shock oil
higher front ride height
sauce full rear tire and only half or less of front
move your tie rods to the inner holes on the servo saver, this will smooth out the ackerman also
Try:
stiffer front springs
heavier lube on the kingpins
shorter rear shock to reduce rear droop (less off power steering)
lighter shock oil
higher front ride height
sauce full rear tire and only half or less of front
move your tie rods to the inner holes on the servo saver, this will smooth out the ackerman also
I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.
I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
#4224
Ok so narrowing the front is a bad idea... copy that...
I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
I should've said "tried most" as I realised today there is a Shimizu combo I haven't got my hands on yet.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.
I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
I should've said "tried most" as I realised today there is a Shimizu combo I haven't got my hands on yet.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.
I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
Some of us found the kit length (for the arms) to be ½mm too short so made the rear side to side movement bind.
#4225
Tech Master
Ok so narrowing the front is a bad idea... copy that...
I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
I should've said "tried most" as I realised today there is a Shimizu combo I haven't got my hands on yet.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.
I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
I should've said "tried most" as I realised today there is a Shimizu combo I haven't got my hands on yet.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.
I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
Before you order the shimizu tires definitely try the traction compound. This seems to make a ton of difference on the f1 cars. It may not be necessary in the hot summer months but it is a big help with colder track temps. Try doing a full rear tire first. If the car develops a push then try 1/4 to 1/2 a tire up front to go with the full rear. I bet you see a huge difference.
#4226
Tech Master
Be sure to put the traction compound on the inside part of the front tires and not the outside. I made this mistake once and it wasn't pretty.
#4228
Tech Master
Bingo. Instant rolling f1 car. Really bad considering that there is a garage door just outside of the sweeper apex. I hit that door a couple of times. We call that ringing the bell. I did get to test the durability of the fgx rabbit conversion though. A very tough chassis.
#4229
HELP F103RM ?
WILL A F104 MCLAREN OR F60 BODY FIT ON MY 103 ?
#4230
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
possibly - as long as you don't cut out the side pontoons
or if you want a mclaren body to fit your F103, shoot me a PM - I have one I that i was going to use, but not going to use it anymore. its NIB, well opened back, but everything is untouched just wanted to look at the directions so i pulled it out
or if you want a mclaren body to fit your F103, shoot me a PM - I have one I that i was going to use, but not going to use it anymore. its NIB, well opened back, but everything is untouched just wanted to look at the directions so i pulled it out