Tamiya TB-02
#1786
Tech Adept
thanks for info P956LH , my plans are to put a novak 5800 BL motor , so i gues they will wear soon or late...
will research on those tech racing ones
will research on those tech racing ones
#1787
Tech Adept
this is it and yes, it include swing shaft protectors
anyway i might do a try on the delrin ones , that might be even better , delrin is very tough
anyway i might do a try on the delrin ones , that might be even better , delrin is very tough
#1788
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by Hebiki
teehomo, search back about 5-6 pages. i posted the part # for the new "Blue" (lightweight) shaft for the TB-02R. it has a thicker end (to hold the bevel gear) and its about 4-6mm (est) longer than the original evoIII shaft. that will minimize the play fore/aft for the shaft.
edit: here you go..part #49369
edit: here you go..part #49369
IS the above quote the answer? The car I have has a light blue aluminum drive shaft in it already.. I have no idea if it is this specific one.
if it is.. then I am still stripping out the front diff.. after replacing the ring gear it still seems loose and ready to jump a tooth.. the "diffing" action is not smooth.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
James
#1789
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
Hey everyone, I have a boy running my Tb02 now, and we are having the same problem of the front diff gears stripping out.
IS the above quote the answer? The car I have has a light blue aluminum drive shaft in it already.. I have no idea if it is this specific one.
if it is.. then I am still stripping out the front diff.. after replacing the ring gear it still seems loose and ready to jump a tooth.. the "diffing" action is not smooth.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
James
IS the above quote the answer? The car I have has a light blue aluminum drive shaft in it already.. I have no idea if it is this specific one.
if it is.. then I am still stripping out the front diff.. after replacing the ring gear it still seems loose and ready to jump a tooth.. the "diffing" action is not smooth.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
James
#1790
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
grammar & spelling mistakes
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
Hey everyone, I have a boy running my Tb02 now, and we are having the same problem of the front diff gears stripping out.
IS the above quote the answer? The car I have has a light blue aluminum drive shaft in it already.. I have no idea if it is this specific one.
if it is.. then I am still stripping out the front diff.. after replacing the ring gear it still seems loose and ready to jump a tooth.. the "diffing" action is not smooth.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
James
IS the above quote the answer? The car I have has a light blue aluminum drive shaft in it already.. I have no idea if it is this specific one.
if it is.. then I am still stripping out the front diff.. after replacing the ring gear it still seems loose and ready to jump a tooth.. the "diffing" action is not smooth.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
James
what happens with the TB-02 is that the original shaft was too short. so the shaft floats in and out of the bevel gear causing the stripping. the part # i posted (when you quoted me) is definitely an improvement over the original shaft since it holds the bevel gear better in two ways.
1. it has a thicker front end piece so it holds the bevel gear snug and prevents side to side movement.
2. since it is longer, it holds it better front to back. less movement also.
now in order to "lessen" your chances of stripping a front gear you'll need to do the following things:
1. buy the new gears. for a one way, they are fatter and wrap around the support plate (carbon graphite). they are thicker and withstand hits a little bit better.
2. buy the new shaft. this will limit forward/backward movements
3. shim it so there's only a little bit of play. for the shaft this means shimming it forward or backwards so the drivetrain is free but doesnt bind. also shim your diff and front one way/diff (left to right, or right to left).
of course... dont hit stuff. hope that helps.
#1791
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Hebiki
James,
what happens with the TB-02 is that the original shaft was too short. so the shaft floats in and out of the bevel gear causing the stripping. the part # i posted (when you quoted me) is definitely an improvement over the original shaft since it holds the bevel gear better in two ways.
1. it has a thicker front end piece so it holds the bevel gear snug and prevents side to side movement.
2. since it is longer, it holds it better front to back. less movement also.
now in order to "lessen" your chances of stripping a front gear you'll need to do the following things:
1. buy the new gears. for a one way, they are fatter and wrap around the support plate (carbon graphite). they are thicker and withstand hits a little bit better.
2. buy the new shaft. this will limit forward/backward movements
3. shim it so there's only a little bit of play. for the shaft this means shimming it forward or backwards so the drivetrain is free but doesnt bind. also shim your diff and front one way/diff (left to right, or right to left).
of course... dont hit stuff. hope that helps.
what happens with the TB-02 is that the original shaft was too short. so the shaft floats in and out of the bevel gear causing the stripping. the part # i posted (when you quoted me) is definitely an improvement over the original shaft since it holds the bevel gear better in two ways.
1. it has a thicker front end piece so it holds the bevel gear snug and prevents side to side movement.
2. since it is longer, it holds it better front to back. less movement also.
now in order to "lessen" your chances of stripping a front gear you'll need to do the following things:
1. buy the new gears. for a one way, they are fatter and wrap around the support plate (carbon graphite). they are thicker and withstand hits a little bit better.
2. buy the new shaft. this will limit forward/backward movements
3. shim it so there's only a little bit of play. for the shaft this means shimming it forward or backwards so the drivetrain is free but doesnt bind. also shim your diff and front one way/diff (left to right, or right to left).
of course... dont hit stuff. hope that helps.
when the has a frontal crash , the chasiss bends and compress front to back , shaft play avoid the bevel gears to push the diffgears
#1792
Originally Posted by DrKucho
are you suure off all of that? i think it is the contrary , to avoid striping better leave some play in the shaft, why tamiya would leave such big play in the tb-02 stock shaft? that's cant be a lack of precision , that must have a purpose , and taking in mind the TB-02 is a cheap version of evo 3 , and that means cheap cars are made to be strong (as all plastic ones) i definitly think that the play of the shaft is for avoiding striping gears
when the has a frontal crash , the chasiss bends and compress front to back , shaft play avoid the bevel gears to push the diffgears
when the has a frontal crash , the chasiss bends and compress front to back , shaft play avoid the bevel gears to push the diffgears
#1793
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by westerdude42
He's dead on right. We used to slide an extra bearing behind the spur on the shaft to keep it pushed forward.
#1794
Originally Posted by DrKucho
still doesnt make sense to me , why shaft play would strip the gears?
#1795
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Originally Posted by DrKucho
are you suure off all of that? i think it is the contrary , to avoid striping better leave some play in the shaft, why tamiya would leave such big play in the tb-02 stock shaft? that's cant be a lack of precision , that must have a purpose , and taking in mind the TB-02 is a cheap version of evo 3 , and that means cheap cars are made to be strong (as all plastic ones) i definitly think that the play of the shaft is for avoiding striping gears
when the has a frontal crash , the chasiss bends and compress front to back , shaft play avoid the bevel gears to push the diffgears
when the has a frontal crash , the chasiss bends and compress front to back , shaft play avoid the bevel gears to push the diffgears
evo3 had the same problem. the original shaft was too short. tamiya made running fixes to try to cure the problem (reinforced, fatter one way gear and longer shafts with a thicker front end) thus the TB-02 inherited the defects.
#1796
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
OK, now I am in Canada, so maybe you cant help me directly.. but..
What is a good source for shims?
I have Yomomo belt drive cars that can use shims.. the TB02.. hinge pins when the arms or hubcarriers start to get loose..
I know there are aftermarket screw kits for rc.. specific to cars.. has anyone come up with a shim kit? A kit of .25mm .5mm etc.. shims bigger for output shafts.. hinge pins (pretty much same on any car) ... anyway you get the idea.
I would love to have a little plastic parts box with shims... anyone?
James
What is a good source for shims?
I have Yomomo belt drive cars that can use shims.. the TB02.. hinge pins when the arms or hubcarriers start to get loose..
I know there are aftermarket screw kits for rc.. specific to cars.. has anyone come up with a shim kit? A kit of .25mm .5mm etc.. shims bigger for output shafts.. hinge pins (pretty much same on any car) ... anyway you get the idea.
I would love to have a little plastic parts box with shims... anyone?
James
#1797
Originally Posted by Bikerbob
OK, now I am in Canada, so maybe you cant help me directly.. but..
What is a good source for shims?
I have Yomomo belt drive cars that can use shims.. the TB02.. hinge pins when the arms or hubcarriers start to get loose..
I know there are aftermarket screw kits for rc.. specific to cars.. has anyone come up with a shim kit? A kit of .25mm .5mm etc.. shims bigger for output shafts.. hinge pins (pretty much same on any car) ... anyway you get the idea.
I would love to have a little plastic parts box with shims... anyone?
James
What is a good source for shims?
I have Yomomo belt drive cars that can use shims.. the TB02.. hinge pins when the arms or hubcarriers start to get loose..
I know there are aftermarket screw kits for rc.. specific to cars.. has anyone come up with a shim kit? A kit of .25mm .5mm etc.. shims bigger for output shafts.. hinge pins (pretty much same on any car) ... anyway you get the idea.
I would love to have a little plastic parts box with shims... anyone?
James
They have a kit with 0.1mm, 0.2mm, & 0.3mm thickness
53585 RC 3mm Shim Set - 3 Types
53586 RC 4mm Shim Set - 3 Types
53587 RC 5mm Shim Set - 3 Types
53726 RC 6mm Shim Set - 3 Types
53538 RC 10mm Shim Set - 3 Types
you can always go to tamiyausa.com and type "shim" in the search box for more info, or the part #
#1798
Tech Fanatic
Hey TB-02 Guys; can you Help Me out on this?
I would like to know the Length(in Millimeters) of the TB-02 Carbon Battery Plate(49366 - $12.00).
I`ve heard it can fit a TA05 and a TB Evo 5.
Thanks
Take Care
I would like to know the Length(in Millimeters) of the TB-02 Carbon Battery Plate(49366 - $12.00).
I`ve heard it can fit a TA05 and a TB Evo 5.
Thanks
Take Care
#1799
Originally Posted by GuyIsDamGood
Hey TB-02 Guys; can you Help Me out on this?
I would like to know the Length(in Millimeters) of the TB-02 Carbon Battery Plate(49366 - $12.00).
I`ve heard it can fit a TA05 and a TB Evo 5.
Thanks
Take Care
I would like to know the Length(in Millimeters) of the TB-02 Carbon Battery Plate(49366 - $12.00).
I`ve heard it can fit a TA05 and a TB Evo 5.
Thanks
Take Care
Have equal length battery straps.
#1800
Tech Fanatic
Hey rchoudini; thanks for the info.
I believe the TB Evo 3`s Carbon Battery Plate(4305513) is the Exact Same as the TB-02`s Carbon Battery Plate(49366).
-If you have any info on this(to confirm what I`ve said); please get back.
Thanks
Take Care
I believe the TB Evo 3`s Carbon Battery Plate(4305513) is the Exact Same as the TB-02`s Carbon Battery Plate(49366).
-If you have any info on this(to confirm what I`ve said); please get back.
Thanks
Take Care