Z.Hallett

the diamond bit will get smoother, better cuts. the diamond bit will last a lot longer than a carbide bit. the carbide bit will give a few smooth cuts but wear out rather quickly compared to that of a diamnond bit.

-Zac

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

i bought one form integy for 65$ its there mod motor lathe. comes with carbide bit... works good though pretty compact.

pug 205 gti

quality carbide steel will last ages if treated correctly.
remember amatures are butter soft copper!!!
although diamond edged cutter will give a better more shinny finish.it can chip much easier if mistreated.
my experience comes from cnc and not cutting little bits of copper on a poxy little laithe.
pingo where did you get the integy? thanks

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

here is the link but

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...4192&rd=1&rd=1
they are integy ebay store..

pug 205 gti

thankyou

wallyedmonds

a diamond bit is very necessary
iv had mine since cobra came out with there lathe.
i tried the carbide bit and it realy sucked.

Tek Nickal

I was running my CP19T, and I ran it for 2 heats and a main. The motor felt strong through all 3 races, and I didn't cut the comm, although when I took the motor apart, the comm was in bad shape, purple and discolored. And during the main, the motor got really hot. My rollout is 31.58 on foam tires and 5.77 FDR with rubber. Using silver springs both terminals with infinity brushes.

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

I have two chemelon 2's with no springs or brushes installed. What spring combo is recommended for asphalt rubber?

Thanks for your help.

CheeerZ

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

had a similar problem but during practice (running rubber on asphalt). purple coms, but the brushes were fine and the can was at about 152-159*F.

stuartb

I have heard that some people are advancing their fixed timing motors by twisting the stack.

Rumours are that this advances the timing by another 10 deg and is being hidden under the guise of "manufacturer tolerances"

I would assume that this is illegal but am interested in what this actually means as i thought that the stack (apart from the wire winding) was a complete unit so how would this be possible?

part-time racer

I'd try purple / purple or purple / red to, + / -, and you can't go wrong with putnam green / blue. If you run it hard you will need to skim and re-brush everyother run.

DIALED

iTrader: (96)

Has anyone ever found the performance of a Komomo
to just drop off---severely?
Like say, when new, it pulls 12 amps @ 2v
Then, without abuse, just normal racing, the most it pulls (w/a fresh cut and brushes) is 9v???
Can zapping have a negative effect on a good motor---if done correctly w/ a high quality zapper?

Thanks for any ideas, I'm really scratching my head on this one.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Typically I haven't seen anything like that happen unless the zapper did something weird. Magent zappers that are working properly should just resaturate the magnet to it's full capacity as far as I know.

Now... what could have happened is brush hood alignment might have shifted/changed. Also different batches of brushes draw more or less amps depending on how good the raw materials in the batch are. Also if the wire look of the windings look any darker than they were when new....

Try just re aligning the brush hoods... and maybe throw in a known good set of f brushes or 767's in there. The latest batch of 4499's is really good too.

-Korey

DIALED

iTrader: (96)

Thanks.

I'll re-check the allignment. But as far as the brush batches go...
Is color/performance the only way to distinguish good from bad?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Not really... you're kinda screwed there. EA has given me different batches of brushes and they all look the same... but are totally night and day on the track.