dgullickson

iTrader: (45)

Direct Trinity replacements are the 4499's, however the Fbrushes produce alot more power.

Both of which we have in stock at www.axiommotors.com

trdsupra88

iTrader: (25)

thanks...

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I have a Team Checkpoint Money 19T fixed timing motor I got used. The owner said it had only been broken in (what ever that means) and it is running good. I have only raced it twice and after the second race the end bell almost fell off.

When it opened it up the silver ring that the end bell attaches to was bent. So I flattened it out and put it back of with some blue locktite and I did not tighten down as much.

Now my question is how can I tell what brushes I have and what should I be using to get the best performance out of for Racing 12th scale CRC Carpet knife 3.2R.

After 2 club meetings I have improved my lap times from a best at the first time of 12.9 Sec to 10.5 the second day ( I came in second in the b main) Is this normal? I have been told that I drive like I have done this before. But I have only been into RC's for about 3 years and only this past summer racing in off-road (T-Maxx) and now my first time with an On road car.

We are racing on carpet indoors (as it is bloody cold outside)

Thanks for any help

sosidge

You shouldn't be loctiting the timing ring. If you just barely thread it on to the endbell screws you should be able to put the endbell on then twist it into position, then tighten the screws gently, but don't crank them down as that will just bend the timing ring again.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

anyone have tips on getting this Checkpoint Money motor to go faster or run better?

Impulse_racer

iTrader: (4)

What are you racing?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Sorry I should have mentioned that. I have it in a CRC 3.2R with Gen X Front end. Novak GTX ESC and 4000 mAh batteries 4 Cell pack

Impulse_racer

iTrader: (4)

I was running a Checkpoint 19T in a BMI DB12RR. The best performance I got was with the high silver content brush on the positive side and the
Atlas brush on the negative, medium springs and no shims to preload the brushes. I cut the comm and do a 90sec at 3v breakin of the brushes. It seems to get better as the race day goes on so I only cut the comm once before I get to the track as part of my weekly maintenance. The only maintenance I do is cutting the comm and lubing the bearings after a race day. I would use a little Locktite on the screws that hold the endbell on. The gearing that produced 170 degrees(88/33) after an 8 minute run was the sweet spot for my motor.

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Hey Just bringing this old thread back to life with a question.

I have heard some of the other racers talking about tuning a locked timing motor with different springs and brushes on each side and that the negative side can be a harder bruch with a harder spring since power travels from the -ve side to the +ve side.

Are there any tutorials on tuning a motor?

I am using the Epic style motor.

cheers

SteveL

iTrader: (23)

There is some truth to that but it's not always the same for all motors. You will need to experiment with different brushes and springs depending on the type of car, class and track conditions. I've always run different spring tensions but usually run the same brush compound. Trinity and Putnam Propultion offered sets of brushes that had different compounds that may be a good place to start.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Hey guys, I have been reading this thread backwards trying to find advice on a good 19T motor. But I saw that the date of the posts were really old. So I think that there would be faster motors on the market. Any ideas which ones?