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Old 08-18-2003, 08:35 PM   #1
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Default 19T Motor Forum

Thought I would start a thread like this because this class seems like it gets bigger and bigger by the second. Since ROAR just announced the rules for the 19T class, I thought this would be a good place to share some good information for beginners and experts alike. Feel free to talk about Motor Technology, brushes, springs, gearing, or anything else that might be helpful to someone. I hope this thread turns into a greta source of information and continues to grow.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 08-18-2003, 08:35 PM   #2
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Default Re: 19T Motor Forum

Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
Thought I would start a thread like this because this class seems like it gets bigger and bigger by the second. Since ROAR just announced the rules for the 19T class, I thought this would be a good place to share some good information for beginners and experts alike. Feel free to talk about Motor Technology, brushes, springs, gearing, or anything else that might be helpful to someone. I hope this thread turns into a great source of information and continues to grow.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 08-18-2003, 10:40 PM   #3
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Ok, here's somethng to get the thread started. I have a problem with glitching on my Reedy 19T. I've cut the com, new brushes, have 3 caps on it, a diode, cleaned the motor, tryied different crystles, relocated the Rx, fliped it up on it's side, checked all the wires and solder joints, And nothing seemed to help. When I put my Reedy Kr in, no glitching. When I put any oen of my stock motors in there, no glitching. Anyone have any ideas?

-Sushi Boy
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Old 08-18-2003, 10:43 PM   #4
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get a new motor.........or you could try putting new capacitors on it, maybe they're bad
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Old 08-18-2003, 11:35 PM   #5
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Get new motor must be my only option, because the caps are brand new, and I just replaced them again and no luck. It was pretty fast too.....

-Sushi Boy
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Old 08-19-2003, 04:54 AM   #6
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Default Glitching

Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
Get new motor must be my only option, because the caps are brand new, and I just replaced them again and no luck. It was pretty fast too.....

-Sushi Boy
I had experience during our last 19Tspec race that when the brushes are not yet properly broken in, some glitching occurs. It usually happens when the serrations on the brushes are not yet worn off. Im not saying serrations cause glitching, but the electrical sparks that usually occurs when the serrations are being worn off sometimes causes glitching.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 08-19-2003, 05:29 AM   #7
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Jeez....it seems nobody has much to say about 19t and alot to say about 23t!!!! Any comments about joining the rest of the world and pushing for 23t from our manufacturers !!!???
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Old 08-19-2003, 12:58 PM   #8
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We race 19T class based on EPIC spec motors(camelons 1 and 2)

We run it in FOAM TOURING and 12th. ITs the best class we have ever started in our club. For years MOD TOURING just could not get the support of multiple heats to make it worthwhile to join into. Now our 19T touring runs almost as many racers as the always popular STOCK Touring.


I tune them just like a tune a stock motor. Same brushes and springs.
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Old 08-19-2003, 02:40 PM   #9
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Dino, in my opinion, 23t just will not have support here. 27t stock motors are pretty fast, 19t are a great middle ground to mod. We have run a 19t class here for years, and it is a great class. I think the current setup of 27t Stock, 19t Spec Mod and Mod are pretty good. The more options we have for "Spec" type racing, the more we dilute fields.

Back to 19t. I had a Yokomo Can 19t I just could not get to stop my car from glitching... Went with a Epic can, and it all stopped.

just my .02
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Old 08-19-2003, 02:43 PM   #10
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Sushi-

Its likely that somebody..... Maybe Peter....Told you to run the 766 brushes on that motor? Great brush, but it causes glitching. Replace the caps on the motor, then get some Birdman brushes. they don't glitch.
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Old 08-19-2003, 03:35 PM   #11
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I use 766's on my Reedy 19t Spec and Trinity C2's, no glitching here.
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:12 PM   #12
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im using 767s
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:17 PM   #13
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Some guys at the Reedy Race were having glitch trouble with the Spec motors. Here's one thing that worked for a buddy of mine. Pull the motor apart and take the timing ring out. The problem with the chrome plated can and ring is sometimes that plating between the can and the ring can keep it from making good contact. That keeps the caps from grounding well enough. So grind the plating off the edge of the ring and out of the inside of the can where the ring comes in contact with it to get better contact. Clean it all out and try it again. This helped more than a few guys having problems @ the Reedy. Hope it helps you.
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Old 08-19-2003, 09:28 PM   #14
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As far as this class all around. I love it. It's my favorite class. Stock motors need to be left to the Novice guys. Come on. There isn't a bushing in our cars. We're running bearings everywhere, 3300 mah batts with huge voltage numbers and capacities, programable speedos, etc, etc, etc, and we still have bushings in the motor WTF! I like having speed. I run modified too but that can get really pricey. 19 turn is the perfect solution. Everyone (in theory) is running essentially the same motor still to keep things even, you don't have the hassel of trying to work out your timing vs. gearing, you get better comm wear and don't have the maintinance of a mod, and you actually have some punch out of the corners and good top end.

I say leave the stockers to the beginners and let the racers use a real motor!!
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Old 08-20-2003, 05:45 AM   #15
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On my 1/12, I narrow the brushes slightly, about .75 mm on each edge. I find that makes the motor run a lot colder, and the motor is a lot stronger at the end of the run. It puts me a little down on power at the start of the race, but I will be experimenting with comm drops to try and get some of it back.

This is a C2 motor, with 4499 brushes.
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