I.T.Guy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the follow-up, I'll move it to mid and test it in the next few days.

Ever since I started saucing the entire fronts, the car has felt great (no more pushing). I'm wondering if repositioning the WB would've helped with the pushing i had. In any event, I'll give it a go and see.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Did you make any other adjustments Josh.
or did the WB alone have an effect on the handling ?

AMZ

iTrader: (6)

RedBull,

Do you prefer the inline or trailing steering block/axle for carpet roadcourse ?

And if you don't mind,can you tell me why?

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Sorry, whats WB? My first run rear was slidding around. Side to side movment was way to loose on pod. I tightened up pivot and a half turn in on side springs. It got a little better, stearing was good but think I needed maybe 50wt in rear dampner shock instead of 40wt. I didnt make the main cause wife called and said power was out and wanted me home. I am going to try to run dampner tubes like I installed on my 12r5 and it works great. I am still learning about ramping and am trying set ups. This hobby is like a full time job! You will be here this weekend right?

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Change of plans won't be up there next weekend as I had hoped.

AMZ.
I have always preferred inline axles for 10th scale indoors, the feel is more direct.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

WB = Wheelbase

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Same as for me. I wont be there either. New job!

Kensei

I see here is one set in the kit.
Do I have to get me some extra?
If so, which ones?

For instance:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Spacer-Set-8

LonnyJ1950

That's one of 3 trees you would need to have a complete CRC set. Look at the bottom of the page fro the other 2. They adjust in .25mm increments. You can also use these which go in .5mm increments:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0

Bumpy

iTrader: (1)

Why not just get these ones. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ight-Adjusters

I use them in my AE pan cars with no problems. They're great.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

They look the same as the IRS1167
Those are the one i am using.

regards Roy

Skiddins

Just dug my RC10R5 out of the cupboard with a view to running it for the first time in 18 months.

How are you guys securing your lipo's to prevent them moving during the race.
I used to use cell tape coming through the two outer '4-cell' holes but this never seemed to stop all the movement.

It's almost like we need different battery position pieces for the chassis.

Thanks
Skiddins

MarkBurgess

Morning

I try to get as much contact patch between the tape and the underside of the LiPo. So I'd been running the tape under the two outside cell slots, then bringing it to the top across the middle three "bars".

So...around the top of the cell, stuck to the outside "bar" and up through the outside cell slot. Across the rest of the slots to the outside cell slot the other side.

For flat bottomed cells I've found strateic placement of speedo and a weight will stop the cell moving forward in a shunt. Tape alone hasn't been enough.

Hope that helps,
Mark

Skiddins

Thanks Mark.

Am I reading previous posts correctly, that people have managed to use the 'side bars' instead of the side shock for the pod?

I find mine leaks quite often and removing it is a pain. The idea of the bars with grease on them is very appealing

Skiddins

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

If your shocks are leaking that often, isn't it time to replace the O-rings?
Perhaps with another brand?
Sometimes the original arn't that good.
I have had this problem with some shock parts from other brand cars and mixed and matched other parts on a original shock and the problems where gone.
Most of the time it is the pistonguide that causes the problem because of to much play.

regards Roy