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Old 09-21-2009, 12:46 PM   #166
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Oh no another Evo 5 at the C on sportmans night.

You might want to get TB-03 front c hubs #51293(bendy plasitic) and you pull threads out of front knuckles instead of breaking front hubs. It's cheaper to replace front knuckle the then front hubs (knuckles are not sided but c hubs are and you end up with a bunch of one side and none of the ones you need)


Quote:
Originally Posted by double_green View Post
Hi,

I've recently purchased a TB Evo 5 MS kit and will be building it as soon as it arrives. While I was waiting I was hoping to pickup some spare parts and/or hop ups. My plan is to race in the VTA class at my local track. The track is medium size (100 feet by 46 feet) of inch and a half of tennis grade asphault (high grip).

I have some questions regarding what spares, tuning and additional building parts I will need to get for this kit.

I've come up with the following list of items:

Spares
- c hubs from the TA05 IFS (51293)
- front upright TRF416 (51332)
- rear upright TRF416 (51333)
- Short Rev Sus arms (53928)
- Sus shaft set (53825)

Tuning
- fr and rr stabilizer set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- fr and rr onroad spring set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- Suspension mounts/blocks (Can I use the TRF416 blocks?)

Building
Shims/spacers - Is there a certain size that I should get in addition to what comes with the kit? I'm sure it varies from kit to kit but was there certain areas of the car that required more shims/spacers then stated in the manual?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-John
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:06 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double_green View Post
Hi,

I've recently purchased a TB Evo 5 MS kit and will be building it as soon as it arrives. While I was waiting I was hoping to pickup some spare parts and/or hop ups. My plan is to race in the VTA class at my local track. The track is medium size (100 feet by 46 feet) of inch and a half of tennis grade asphault (high grip).

I have some questions regarding what spares, tuning and additional building parts I will need to get for this kit.

I've come up with the following list of items:

Spares
- c hubs from the TA05 IFS (51293)
- front upright TRF416 (51332)
- rear upright TRF416 (51333)
- Short Rev Sus arms (53928)
- Sus shaft set (53825)

Tuning
- fr and rr stabilizer set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- fr and rr onroad spring set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- Suspension mounts/blocks (Can I use the TRF416 blocks?)

Building
Shims/spacers - Is there a certain size that I should get in addition to what comes with the kit? I'm sure it varies from kit to kit but was there certain areas of the car that required more shims/spacers then stated in the manual?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-John
your lists look good so far. I would like to add to it:
-Titanium turnbuckles
-Hard hex connectors (steel ball studs)
-diff plates
-diff balls
-thrust bearings
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:17 PM   #168
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
your lists look good so far. I would like to add to it:
-Titanium turnbuckles
-Hard hex connectors (steel ball studs)
-diff plates
-diff balls
-thrust bearings
If Titanium turnbuckles too much $$$ you can use Yokomo steel turnbuckle.

-TB03 front spool
-some of the .7 mm spacers between top of knuckle and tube(I always lose one between rounds and can't find it when the floor or pits eats it)

Last edited by billb60; 09-21-2009 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:18 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billb60 View Post
Oh no another Evo 5 at the C on sportmans night.

You might want to get TB-03 front c hubs #51293(bendy plasitic) and you pull threads out of front knuckles instead of breaking front hubs. It's cheaper to replace front knuckle the then front hubs (knuckles are not sided but c hubs are and you end up with a bunch of one side and none of the ones you need)
I wasn't aware that there was someone else running an Evo 5 at the 'C'. It is good to hear that I won't be the odd man out. I've read on the 416 thread about the delicate c hubs on this kit. I'm planning to get the softer plastic ones that you've also mentioned.
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:34 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double_green View Post
I wasn't aware that there was someone else running an Evo 5 at the 'C'. It is good to hear that I won't be the odd man out. I've read on the 416 thread about the delicate c hubs on this kit. I'm planning to get the softer plastic ones that you've also mentioned.

I run every other thursday and oval only.

John
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:53 PM   #171
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B18C Turbo - Due to the budget my plan is to defer the purchase of rebuild items (i.e. diff and shocks) to a later time. It is good to know what items I will need to purchase for a diff rebuild. I also read on the 416 thread that the turnbuckles and the ball hex connectors are also a weak point of this kit. I write this with the assumption that these parts are the same between kits (416 and Evo 5).

John - I was told to run a front one way at the 'C'. However, I'm sure this setup might be too much for me at this point as I am still a rookie driver. It's good to know that there is a front spool option for this car. I attended the Sportsman night with my wife and daughter on 2 occasions. I had a blast both times. I'm planning on attending the race this Thursday. Let me know if you're planning on coming, it would be great to meet you in person and to also check out your Evo.
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:37 PM   #172
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Iam bad with names but someone else was also using an EVO5 at the C last thursday in the sportsman class. I have been using the Ta05r, all the spares you spoke of are really cheap at RCmart, RCmarket, ect. I loaded up w spares for little money. It does take a couple weeks to get though. See you on thursday. Robert
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:25 PM   #173
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Wow, didn't know so many had a 5ms on the east. I just had my TB03 at the C a couple of months ago. Planned on bringing my 5ms, but was missing a part for it. Cool that you guys are so close to each other and have the same rare car that doesn't happen much.

As far as the questions you asked in your post...

Quote:
Originally Posted by double_green

Tuning
- fr and rr stabilizer set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- fr and rr onroad spring set (Can someone point me to a part number?)
- Suspension mounts/blocks (Can I use the TRF416 blocks?)
If you want black ones to leave people guessing on sway bars #49395 If you want colored ones #49392. As for springs I would suggest sticking with Tamiya since there springs work well and by you tuning on these will make you used to using them for tuning. That way in the future if you plan on attending a TCS regional race your car will have legal springs. I would suggest #49389 but any of the touring car spring kits they make will work well. Yes the car uses 416 style blocks. Along with the blocks that come with the kit, I would suggest getting 2x 1C blocks and 1x 1D block. That will get you where you want to be most of the time.

Quote:
Shims/spacers - Is there a certain size that I should get in addition to what comes with the kit? I'm sure it varies from kit to kit but was there certain areas of the car that required more shims/spacers then stated in the manual?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-John
With any shaft drive you should keep some extra shims handy for taking care of free play in the drive train. Its the main reason people have issues with gear breakage, they don't build their car right. The manual is only a suggestion on how the shimming should be done. The amount of shims you need for a spool may be slightly different than a ball diff or a one way. If you race at the C you will want to try them all out because some people prefer using a certain style diff on there unique traction. With this being said, they are not much so I would have some as extras even if not needed for building the car. (10x0.1mm #53588)(6X.01mm #53726)(5X0.1mm #53587) should have you covered.

Your list is good for a starting list of spares to keep. I will add to try and get some additional 3X10, 3X12 hex headed screws to use on suspension blocks as they screw into the blocks deeper and help to prevent them from being bent in a wreck. Also, if you plan on racing the car outdoors any you need to keep a eye on small pebbles that may work there way into the gear cases. They are not completely sealed on the evo, and need a small piece of tape or some silicone to completely seal off the area near the inner bulk head. You will see what I mean when you build the car.

Have fun!
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:38 PM   #174
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I don't have a MS but what I call Evo 5 S. It has the 1050 hubs but no easy change spur and non 416 steering.

Use the 416/TB03 blocks they are alittle beefier then the 415 style(I have bent a 415 one). Check this for which blocks to use get the toe you wanthttp://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=412




Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
Wow, didn't know so many had a 5ms on the east. I just had my TB03 at the C a couple of months ago. Planned on bringing my 5ms, but was missing a part for it. Cool that you guys are so close to each other and have the same rare car that doesn't happen much.

As far as the questions you asked in your post...



If you want black ones to leave people guessing on sway bars #49395 If you want colored ones #49392. As for springs I would suggest sticking with Tamiya since there springs work well and by you tuning on these will make you used to using them for tuning. That way in the future if you plan on attending a TCS regional race your car will have legal springs. I would suggest #49389 but any of the touring car spring kits they make will work well. Yes the car uses 416 style blocks. Along with the blocks that come with the kit, I would suggest getting 2x 1C blocks and 1x 1D block. That will get you where you want to be most of the time.



With any shaft drive you should keep some extra shims handy for taking care of free play in the drive train. Its the main reason people have issues with gear breakage, they don't build their car right. The manual is only a suggestion on how the shimming should be done. The amount of shims you need for a spool may be slightly different than a ball diff or a one way. If you race at the C you will want to try them all out because some people prefer using a certain style diff on there unique traction. With this being said, they are not much so I would have some as extras even if not needed for building the car. (10x0.1mm #53588)(6X.01mm #53726)(5X0.1mm #53587) should have you covered.

Your list is good for a starting list of spares to keep. I will add to try and get some additional 3X10, 3X12 hex headed screws to use on suspension blocks as they screw into the blocks deeper and help to prevent them from being bent in a wreck. Also, if you plan on racing the car outdoors any you need to keep a eye on small pebbles that may work there way into the gear cases. They are not completely sealed on the evo, and need a small piece of tape or some silicone to completely seal off the area near the inner bulk head. You will see what I mean when you build the car.

Have fun!
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:48 PM   #175
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Does anyone know how close the Evo 4 spool and Evo 5 MS spool are in dimensions?
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:58 AM   #176
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Robert - How did you do last week? For some reason the results from last week's race is not posted online. I saw the results from the Sedan Challenge and it appears George held his own in the VTA class. I'll see you guys on Thursday.

Timmie - Thanks for the info on the stabilizer and springs. Although I don't have any immediate plans to attend any TCS event, I'll nevertheless stick with Tamiya branded items. The majority of my racing will be at the 'C'. I may run some outdoor events during the spring/summer season as there are several outdoor events in my region. Iíll make sure to keep a close eye on the gear box. It's good to know that there are people running this car. I look forward to have further discussions about tuning and setup.

I've taken everyone's feedback and have updated the list.

Spares
- c hubs from the TA05 IFS (51293)
- front upright TRF416 (51332)
- rear upright TRF416 (51333)
- Short Rev Sus arms (53928)
- Sus shaft set (53825)
- Hex head ball connectors
- 5x8mm (53969)
- 5x5mm (53968)
- Shims
- 10x0.1mm & 10x0.3mm (53588)
- 6x0.1mm & 6x0.3mm (53726)
- 5x0.1mm (53587)
- 3x0.1mm (53585)
- Screws (3x10mm and 3x12mm)

Tuning
- fr and rr stabilizer set (49392 or 49395)
- fr and rr onroad spring set (49389)
- fr spool TB03 (54125)
- Suspension mounts/blocks (Article #412) <-- Great article

I found another great article titled "Method to Measuring and Setting Droop" by David Jun (Article #413) that I wanted to share. This is the most clearest and precise method I've read thus far. Having said that, I'm sure there are pros and cons to every approach.

Thanks again.

-John
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:01 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Does anyone know how close the Evo 4 spool and Evo 5 MS spool are in dimensions?
You got PM
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:21 AM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double_green View Post
Robert - How did you do last week? For some reason the results from last week's race is not posted online. I saw the results from the Sedan Challenge and it appears George held his own in the VTA class. I'll see you guys on Thursday.

Timmie - Thanks for the info on the stabilizer and springs. Although I don't have any immediate plans to attend any TCS event, I'll nevertheless stick with Tamiya branded items. The majority of my racing will be at the 'C'. I may run some outdoor events during the spring/summer season as there are several outdoor events in my region. Iíll make sure to keep a close eye on the gear box. It's good to know that there are people running this car. I look forward to have further discussions about tuning and setup.

I've taken everyone's feedback and have updated the list.

Spares
- c hubs from the TA05 IFS (51293)
- front upright TRF416 (51332)
- rear upright TRF416 (51333)
- Short Rev Sus arms (53928)
- Sus shaft set (53825)
- Hex head ball connectors
- 5x8mm (53969)
- 5x5mm (53968)
- Shims
- 10x0.1mm & 10x0.3mm (53588)
- 6x0.1mm & 6x0.3mm (53726)
- 5x0.1mm (53587)
- 3x0.1mm (53585)
- Screws (3x10mm and 3x12mm)

Tuning
- fr and rr stabilizer set (49392 or 49395)
- fr and rr onroad spring set (49389)
- fr spool TB03 (54125)
- Suspension mounts/blocks (Article #412) <-- Great article

I found another great article titled "Method to Measuring and Setting Droop" by David Jun (Article #413) that I wanted to share. This is the most clearest and precise method I've read thus far. Having said that, I'm sure there are pros and cons to every approach.

Thanks again.

-John
You're very welcome You drive a Tamiya so your cool in my book Most people on this site are friendly and helpful, don't hesitate to ask.

Yeah thats a great list to start off with. Out of the box the evo5ms comes with a really good setup so you should be able to go right out and enjoy the car after your build is done. At the C, I think the stock settings will work nicely with the one way thats included, just change the front springs to blues and it should be a good starting point.

Yes the David Jun article is very informative. I have referred others to it as well. What I do for droop is adjust to the settings I want with a standard Tamiya droop guage and then afterwards I will use his method to make it perfect left to right. Then during a race day, I can just set my caliper to the predetermined measurement, and verify my settings quickly and accurately when I feel the need to.

I should be getting the part I need to get my car back on the track soon....I can't wait
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:25 AM   #179
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Originally Posted by Obsidian View Post
Does anyone know how close the Evo 4 spool and Evo 5 MS spool are in dimensions?
i have gotten confirmation the Evo 4 and Evo 5 spool are very similar. I know an Evo 5 Spool will fit into an Evo 4.(with proper shimming)
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:45 AM   #180
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Whats better for rubber tire on carpet oneway spool or diff want to try car but not sure about a shaft car and bi level gears people tell me they strip very fast.

GO LIONS!!!
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