CVD

There's a guy on ebay that sells the World Champ Edition for $350 plus $18 for shipping and insurance. Just search under Stores for "tamiya 414"

ME-student

that is not the world champ edition....
what they meant is that its the 414M2 is the current world champ

don't be tricked!

TRF-Powered

Safest way to buy is to ask for part number. Here are the part numbers for each car:

Regular M2: 49219;
M2 memoral Kit: 49220;
Original M: 49175;
the world replica: 49255;

Pyramid

Very interesting point about high roll center that makes the tires take more weight rather than in the chassis.... from slowhand I believe.

It got me thinking...... well, I might be wrong since I'm no where near mechanical engineering on my studies.

If the roll center were fairly low, assume original setup, in order to get 5mm ride height, position of lower A arms would be kicking up resulting the wheel hub (center of tires) sit higher than the chassis. At least higher than if the roll center were at higher position.

Does it means the tires are actually the one receiving (holding) all the weight carried from chassis? Or I'm completely loss

One more things... about the front upper supporting link. We all know from long time ago the Wchamps removed it. Anyone know why? Does it have to do with Trinity so called "reactive caster"?

Interceptor

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know if tamiya makes steel or titanium screws for the 414? More specifically the tapered flat head allen screws that go in the bottom of the chassis, I have a couple that have stripped out and I am having to drill them out. I would rather replace them with better (but TCS legal) versions. If you have a part number as well, please list it. Thanks

TK

iTrader: (1)

Pyramid The Trinity reactive castor allows the castor of the car to change throughout the corner. The Tamiya 414 does not have this capability because the castor block is a fixed due to the outter hinge pin. I would assume he removed it because it caused the front end of the car to tweak easier when he had them on.

TK

Pyramid

TK.. thanks for the information. Yes I do understand the Trinity's reactive caster, in fact, that was the first 1/12 scale I had when they first came out with reactive caster thing.

I'm more interested on.... is it just because he needed the upper link holes (on upperdeck) to mount upper stabilizer or there are other reasons? I believe without support link, turning tends to oversteering (why? more tweak? <=absolutely wrong idea). Could this be achived by something elses rather than removing upper link support? I just dont' like much slop on its C hubs when upper link support removed.

I have not inspected them completely but I guess when the suspension compressed, the upper link might change its caster and or camber degree unnaturaly because the C hubs being hold by upper link support. Will this be the case? I certainly hopes the World Champs could use more English langguages to help us around and support this threads

Alvin

Hi all,
I am using a GMV12 and a R123 futaba micro receiver, and I want to mount my receiver and esc on the left side of the car, like surikarn's. Right now my receiver is mounted atop my servo, so I hope if I can mount it like his, the weight will be closer to the ground.



Problem is while my v12 is just a pint larger than surikarn's MC800C (which I have also, but I prefer the V12's power band), I cannot seem to fit my receiver there; it can not fit under the steering linkage. Did he move the steering linkage's spacers up or down? I am hesistant to do this as I do not have sufficient time to test how it affects the bump steer.

Appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks!

Regards,
Alvin

Alvin

Guys, how does the futaba 9450 compare to say KO2123? On paper the 9450's speed is 0.1s (if I am not mistaken), compared to the 2123 which is 0.06s.

Aurra Sing

He's using the new Futaba short crystal receiver (R113F) which has a flat side (unlike the R123F, where there is no "flat" side) to fit under the steering linkage.



[edit]Surikarn is using the 27mhz or 40mhz version. That's why has green instead of red. Same RX.[/edit]

TRF-Powered

I suggest you to use futaba 9450 or the Ko 2173/2143 servo. Don't use the 2123 on your 414M unless you are able to fit your ESC and servo on the same side. The reason is that the 2123 servo needs 7.2 Volts to operate properly. all the other servo only needs 6 volts to operate properly. In order to feed the servo with 7.2 Volts you will need to connect a lead to the ESC that supplys extra voltage to the servo. It may not be a good idea to have that extra wire hanging in between the belt.

Alvin

Aurra: Thanks! Suddenly I could get another receiver for my 414m, and shift the existing receiver over to my pan car ;-)
But is it the 113 or 133 as in the picture? According to tower's website, the 133 can only use "short" crystals. I'm wondering if these are the same types as those found in the lightweight receivers used in planes.

TRF-Powered: Ah. I am using the 2123 for quite a while though. The space between the steering arms are quite clear for the wires to go through. I'm trying to further optimize the weight distribution...

TRF-Powered

Well, to me it's just not a good idea to have anything in between the belt/steering linkage. Just in case of any accident, that the wire get caught in the steering linkage or the belt.

I'm more picky on small things like that. Don't wanna ruin the expensive servo (if the lead wire get pulled).

I too use a PDS2123 servo, I use it on my TB evo2 where the servo and the ESC are on the same side.

TRF_SPAIN

Alvin: I´m using a KO reciever, and to make it fit in that position, i must put one of the spacers of the steering posts under it, that makes raise the steering and the reciever fits eprfectly, Miura uses the same reciever than me (at least at the worlds, now he uses the new one ikkkkk ), and if you watch carefully the pictures of his car at the races he also raises the steering to make it fit

Alvin

Hi guys! Thanks for the suggestions. I have a race on sunday, will try out the suggestions after it. Ok for the race, they have (today) changed the entire layout of the track. We have a very long sweeper out of the straight, when you enter it, your car's right will be facing you; exit the sweeper it will also be entering the infield, facing the right. Kinda' confusing eh? Thing of a snail's shell and you can get the idea.

Well today I got a chance to test the track, it was very dusty (new concrete corners) so I didn't get much setting done with the inconsistent traction. I did however adjust my droop (much more) so the car won't understeer midway through the high speed sweeper. I will be testing mid in the week with proper gripping tires as well as harder springs (blue); harder shock oil. I'd appreciate any other suggestions with regard to setting up for high speed corners. The other track in singapore with such corners I don't have a valid pass to enter

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Alvin