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Old 05-19-2011, 12:23 PM
  #20506  
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Originally Posted by daverobbo5
Hello, all Tekin users.



has anyone found that the receiver wire on their Tekin gets a bit 'tired' after pulling it out to use the hot wire?

the hot wire and software is a top idea but through the receiver? just seems a little fragile.

happy to hear any suggestions
I use a receiver extension cable and that takes the strain off the RS plug.
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:26 PM
  #20507  
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Originally Posted by GBOGH
The tracks are both OCRC and Westcoast RC located in Southern California. I can't post links to the tracks from liverc.com, their cameras are both live right now, but the straights aren't that large, I'd say 80FT at most? for both tracks.
Try these settings with your orange motor set to N.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC...dBuggy_212.pdf
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Old 05-19-2011, 12:27 PM
  #20508  
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Originally Posted by slashdriver
I am running almost the same settings as posted on Atsushi Hara's setup sheet on the tekin website, which is almost identical to the recommendations from murfdogg.

17.5 touring car.

when you let off the throttle at all, even the slightest, it feels like you've thrown out the anchor and have 50% drag brake, or maybe like ALLL of the timing is going away as soon as I drop off 100% throttle.. very difficult to modulate the throttle just a little bit to negotiate a corner or something... any idea how to smooth this out?? The car rolls very freely otherwise, it's not the car mechanically.

212
boost = 48
start rpm = 5500
end rpm = 20000
turbo = 12
turbo ramp = 2.0
turbo delay = .14
drag brake = 0
6.6 FDR
profile 4
motor timing turned all the way down (duo 2)

big asphalt track, 170' straight.

Say fore xample a corner I need to let off just a tiny bit of power to get the car to roll through the corner, when I let off a tiny bit, it is like i hit the brakes even though i'm still holding 90% throttle!
What you've got to understand is that this motor was not meant/designed to spin the rpm's we're spinning it at! lol

Try adding some push control to your setup. This will prevent the car from diving into the corner off throttle.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:04 PM
  #20509  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
current limiter is punch control
Oh hehe

What about the second cap why will it lower esc temp and will one cap 16V 660uF do the same as 2x 330uF?
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:14 PM
  #20510  
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Originally Posted by Monkeys punk
I use a receiver extension cable and that takes the strain off the RS plug.
Try putting a section of shrink wrap on the plug and wire where they come together. That will relieve some of the strain.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:21 PM
  #20511  
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I have a question on drag brake. I like a high value but it engages quite hard on a boosted 10.5 (carpet track) and I don't want to destroy the spur gear or drivetrain.

I've been trying to use the hand brake with about 30-40 expo on the radio (DX3R) and it is very smooth. It stills stops very quickly but doesn't "dive" or kick the back end around. I was wondering if there was a way to do this with the drag brake?

Also, does the "minimum brake" setting affect BOTH hand and drag brake?

Thanks! The 10.5 boosted sounds like a chainsaw going down the backstretch
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:46 PM
  #20512  
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Sorry if this has been asked before but, what exactly does push control do? How does it affect drag brake and how does it affect the massive brake reaction once you come off of full throttle?
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:02 PM
  #20513  
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Originally Posted by Advil
Sorry if this has been asked before but, what exactly does push control do? How does it affect drag brake and how does it affect the massive brake reaction once you come off of full throttle?
I use push all the time but couldnt manage without it in my 12th scale. I find it lets the motor coast for a bit after you let off the throttle dependant on how you set it. Just allows you to roll into the corner better. Push is the one thing I missed when using other speedos.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:07 PM
  #20514  
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Originally Posted by slashdriver
I am running almost the same settings as posted on Atsushi Hara's setup sheet on the tekin website, which is almost identical to the recommendations from murfdogg.

17.5 touring car.

when you let off the throttle at all, even the slightest, it feels like you've thrown out the anchor and have 50% drag brake, or maybe like ALLL of the timing is going away as soon as I drop off 100% throttle.. very difficult to modulate the throttle just a little bit to negotiate a corner or something... any idea how to smooth this out?? The car rolls very freely otherwise, it's not the car mechanically.

212
boost = 48
start rpm = 5500
end rpm = 20000
turbo = 12
turbo ramp = 2.0
turbo delay = .14
drag brake = 0
6.6 FDR
profile 4
motor timing turned all the way down (duo 2)

big asphalt track, 170' straight.

Say fore xample a corner I need to let off just a tiny bit of power to get the car to roll through the corner, when I let off a tiny bit, it is like i hit the brakes even though i'm still holding 90% throttle!
The drag brake feel is from all the torque being exerted on the drivetrain when you lift. Go back to 0 motor timing (or even slightly advanced timing) and increase your FDR closer to the low 6's, maybe even high 5's with a track that large. With a 6.6 FDR and fully negative motor timing I don't know how you would even make it down a 170' straightaway.

Making those changes will greatly reduce the "checking up" feeling when you lift.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:57 PM
  #20515  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
What you've got to understand is that this motor was not meant/designed to spin the rpm's we're spinning it at! lol

Try adding some push control to your setup. This will prevent the car from diving into the corner off throttle.
Will that help only off throttle? THe problem I'm having is when I let off the throttle even only a little bit (for example, going from 100% to 90% on the trigger to get a bit more steering through a chicane) it feels like brakes!
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:05 PM
  #20516  
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Don't lift! kidding.

Again if you're zooming on a 17.5 this can be the case. Push control won't help this issue. It shouldn't feel like brakes though.

Which motor? Is one worse than the other?

Rp,
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:16 PM
  #20517  
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Originally Posted by slashdriver
I am running almost the same settings as posted on Atsushi Hara's setup sheet on the tekin website, which is almost identical to the recommendations from murfdogg.

17.5 touring car.

when you let off the throttle at all, even the slightest, it feels like you've thrown out the anchor and have 50% drag brake, or maybe like ALLL of the timing is going away as soon as I drop off 100% throttle.. very difficult to modulate the throttle just a little bit to negotiate a corner or something... any idea how to smooth this out?? The car rolls very freely otherwise, it's not the car mechanically.

212
boost = 48
start rpm = 5500
end rpm = 20000
turbo = 12
turbo ramp = 2.0
turbo delay = .14
drag brake = 0
6.6 FDR
profile 4
motor timing turned all the way down (duo 2)

big asphalt track, 170' straight.

Say fore xample a corner I need to let off just a tiny bit of power to get the car to roll through the corner, when I let off a tiny bit, it is like i hit the brakes even though i'm still holding 90% throttle!
My car feels like that as soon as my gearing gets any higher then 6.2 the car is very unsettled when coming off the throttle..to change it I use a little push control and it did help a bit.. With my Duo 3 I had to get the gearing back down under 6.1 if u can.. stop the twitchy feeling..

Cheers
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:17 PM
  #20518  
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
The drag brake feel is from all the torque being exerted on the drivetrain when you lift. Go back to 0 motor timing (or even slightly advanced timing) and increase your FDR closer to the low 6's, maybe even high 5's with a track that large. With a 6.6 FDR and fully negative motor timing I don't know how you would even make it down a 170' straightaway.

Making those changes will greatly reduce the "checking up" feeling when you lift.
This was helpful - thanks. I thought I "remembered" that the fully retarded timing position on the motor was 0, but I did a quick search and it looks like that's actually the -20 position. I set it back to "0" which is the middle of the range - will try again.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:27 PM
  #20519  
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have anyone experience the vegas not working on their laptop?
mine had a window show up saying my computer do not support the software
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:01 PM
  #20520  
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A high FDR does seem to increase the drag brake feeling as well as overall amount of brakes. I also found that a very low FDR (like in the blinky classes) results in nearly no brakes at all. Fortunately you don't really need brakes in those classes.

For 17.5 boosted, an FDR of 5.8-6.0 seems to be where my duo3 likes to be. Good punch, good top end and enough braking power, but can be coasted around a sweeper fairly easily.

I use a nearly identical setup to the one you posted slashdriver, but I have a little more can timing (2 notches on the plus side of center) and a slightly lower end rpm (around 17K)
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