stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Try looking at your solder job. If there are any small pieces of solder that have dropped between two posts of the speedo OR motor, it will give the false reading of wrong motor. It doesn't take much either. I had a very small sliver, but it's enough to make the ground and cause the 1267 lights. Worth an extra look.

avs

iTrader: (2)

less than 10 is small. the default is greater than 50

some radio's neutral can wander, and a small neutral width will cause the ESC to not arm at startup because it can't find neutral.

you can experiment with neutral width at 50 or 60. i am not familiar with your radio, but logic suggests that since your son's radio works then you may have a large trim setting on your throttle. if not, then steal your son's radio. (they must look alike so who's to know? )

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

That sucks I to have been bitten by the 12 67 bug 3 times to be exact and apperantly their is nothing you can do to prevent it as I have asked a few month ago and never got a response. If your running 2s their are many other esc s that are just as fast unfortunatly for 1s tekin is the way to go.

donwhit

Gold star to the man who mentioned trim!
Had to click the trim towards throttle high nearly all the way but it did set and appears to get full throttle and brake OK.
Interestingly, tried to move the trim back to middle after setting neutral and it was OK also.
All of the above done with neutral width set to 10.
regards and thanks
Don

jayh50

iTrader: (7)

Did you try learning the neutral, wide open thottle and full brake with the mode button? You need to have all of your transmitter trims at neutral first.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Try setting all your trims back to maximum default. Sometimes using a preused model on your radio will not work if you have changed settings. Reset everything or find a new model

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Put it up to 50 and see if it works then.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Team Orion Vortex Race 2009 7.5 sensored...

The main interrogation is about the start RPM and the end RPM...

TJ

I current run a tekin rs pro in 21.5 but with turbo. I am entering a competition which run 21.5 spec. I know I have to have 212 software but how do I change the esc to spec like the usa competition. also is there any other information or settings I need to change?

Thanks

locked

iTrader: (1)

You can quickly change to blinky (zero timing) mode by turning on the ESC , then press the mode button 5 times (until TP light is lit) then press the INCR button until only the first light is lit. Or you can set it to timing profile 1 through the hotwire.

In blinky mode you can adjust everything else, just not the timing/turbo

You will probably also need to lower your FDR. One of the classes I race is a 21.5 class that allows boost, but most of the time everyone runs non-boosted. For boosted I used an FDR of 5.0, but for blinky I use 3.8 (Duo3 motor). Some places have a minimum FDR rule, so you might want to inquire about that.

TJ

Thanks Locked is there a setup sheet I can use for the other setting to give me a good start on a medium size track with good grip.

Sorry but what is FDR

locked

iTrader: (1)

FDR is Final Drive Ratio (Spur divided by Pinion multiplied by the car's internal ratio=FDR). I don't think you'll find a setup sheet useful for blinky mode. Since you can't adjust the timing, pretty much all the other settings are just personal preference things.

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Trev, for the event you're thinking of, somewhere between 3.5 and 3.8 is a good starting point (around 53mm rollout). The motor you use will have an influence on what works best. If we're on tomorrow night, feel free to have a chat

TJ

Thanks guys will try to set it up tomorrow hopeful it fine for racing tomorrow night.

cheers

Trev

cannon

iTrader: (35)

That is a joke surely Trev?

Only 20+ years in the sport