Tekin RS ESC sensored
01-17-2010, 03:02 AM
With the V203 software larger rollouts are of no use. They will bog it down and no high speed. Yes I know it sounds back the front but that is the way it is.
Your 30.48? Try slightly higher rollout and compare. That is the great part about the Tekin. You can chnage it easily with a laptop
01-17-2010, 03:43 AM
With the V203 software larger rollouts are of no use. They will bog it down and no high speed. Yes I know it sounds back the front but that is the way it is.
Your 30.48? Try slightly higher rollout and compare. That is the great part about the Tekin. You can chnage it easily with a laptop
Your 30.48? Try slightly higher rollout and compare. That is the great part about the Tekin. You can chnage it easily with a laptop
01-17-2010, 04:45 AM
I must be the only one out here that thinks this update sucks
... at least so far...
I spent 4 hours today trying to get my car to even match the speed and feel of v200 and couldn't even get close...
My setup when I gave up was -
Touring Car
Tekin 17.5
0 motor
40 boost
0 turbo
start rpm 3??? (don't remember the exact number)
end rpm 12000
Gearing was 4.66FDR which is probably still a little high but a fair way down from where I was with v200(down 2 teeth on the pinion and up 3 on the spur - one of the vagaries of the Tigermoth car is limited motor movement) but the car just wasn't working for me on the straight which is about 20m (65feet) long on a small but fast flowing track... yes I had HEAPS more punch out of the tighter turns but it seemed to run out of puff down the straight... basically like an under-geared brushed motor would..
motor temp was about 65C (150F)on a 36C day (track temp near 50C)..
Any useful thoughts?
... at least so far...I spent 4 hours today trying to get my car to even match the speed and feel of v200 and couldn't even get close...
My setup when I gave up was -
Touring Car
Tekin 17.5
0 motor
40 boost
0 turbo
start rpm 3??? (don't remember the exact number)
end rpm 12000
Gearing was 4.66FDR which is probably still a little high but a fair way down from where I was with v200(down 2 teeth on the pinion and up 3 on the spur - one of the vagaries of the Tigermoth car is limited motor movement) but the car just wasn't working for me on the straight which is about 20m (65feet) long on a small but fast flowing track... yes I had HEAPS more punch out of the tighter turns but it seemed to run out of puff down the straight... basically like an under-geared brushed motor would..
motor temp was about 65C (150F)on a 36C day (track temp near 50C)..
Any useful thoughts?
most setups are in the 45-55 timing boost motor 0-10
5-10 turbo .5 delay 2 ramp
start rpm 3500-5k end 10-14k
a easy thing to do is if you are having isues with 203 go back to your 200 setup take out turbo and bump timing boost check temps regear if needed then add turbo
01-17-2010, 05:27 AM
Yesterday I was making changes and noticed my "1s" box was checked. I don't have any 1s batteries. I unchecked it and applied settings. I always disconnect and reconnect to make sure that my settings take but the 1s box was checked again. I tried a different laptop with the same results. 
I updated my speedo again with 203 and the problem went away. Not sure why it did that but just wanted to put out the info if anyone else has the same problem. Car ran great regardless of the box.
I updated my speedo again with 203 and the problem went away. Not sure why it did that but just wanted to put out the info if anyone else has the same problem. Car ran great regardless of the box.
01-17-2010, 06:15 AM
Yesterday I was making changes and noticed my "1s" box was checked. I don't have any 1s batteries. I unchecked it and applied settings. I always disconnect and reconnect to make sure that my settings take but the 1s box was checked again. I tried a different laptop with the same results. I updated my speedo again with 203 and the problem went away. Not sure why it did that but just wanted to put out the info if anyone else has the same problem. Car ran great regardless of the box.
I updated my speedo again with 203 and the problem went away. Not sure why it did that but just wanted to put out the info if anyone else has the same problem. Car ran great regardless of the box.
01-17-2010, 07:14 AM
01-17-2010, 07:17 AM
Tech Apprentice
After reading much on here, I tried out v203 with a Ballistic 17.5 in TC. I ran a 5.4 FDR, 50 boost, 10 turbo, ramp 2, start 4000-ish, end 12500. I had the motor set to -3 notches (furthest negative notch) after reading much about turning it all the way to the edge of the sticker, etc.
I fought with having no power in the infield all day long. I could run the entire infield with full trigger.
I set the motor back to 'N' and the car came alive. I couldn't believe how fast it was. After a six minute main and about 55* outdoor temps the motor came off at 110*. Somebody at the track suggested even going to between N and 3 positive notches (middle positive notch).
Hope that helps.
I fought with having no power in the infield all day long. I could run the entire infield with full trigger.
I set the motor back to 'N' and the car came alive. I couldn't believe how fast it was. After a six minute main and about 55* outdoor temps the motor came off at 110*. Somebody at the track suggested even going to between N and 3 positive notches (middle positive notch).
Hope that helps.
01-17-2010, 07:20 AM
That is good info on the Ballistic. That is close to what I was thinking it would be. I run the Ballistic 17.5 in 1s 12th scale and other then the RPM settings it is close to my settings. That seems to be the sweet spot for most classes and track sizes.
the only thing I would think would be better would be a higher start RPM to give it a bit more punch.
the only thing I would think would be better would be a higher start RPM to give it a bit more punch.
01-17-2010, 07:38 AM
hey guys....
i feer my 6 pack old rs is dead....i sent a pm to randy to ask his thoughts, but i will ask you guys also
so, here is what is happening, the 1,2-6,7 led blinks constantly...which per the manula is the wrong motor setting, i checked on the hotwire and it is in bl-fw, so it should be ok...
here is what i have tried to do to rectify the stuation.
1, swapped packs
2, swapped motors to a known working one
3, swapped the receiver
4, loaded version 200, still did it, so i reloaded 203
5, swapped sensor wires
the lights do not blink when thee is no motor attached to the esc
during the last race i used it, the truck(sc10 17.5 duo2 motor) the truck lost bottom end, i assumed it was the diff shims going bad, in reality it must have been cogging...
i fear it is in need of replacement...or am i missing something.
again, i sent a pm to randy, and tommorrow morning i will call tekin, i am just looking to see if i missed any thing....
thanks for the help
i feer my 6 pack old rs is dead....i sent a pm to randy to ask his thoughts, but i will ask you guys also
so, here is what is happening, the 1,2-6,7 led blinks constantly...which per the manula is the wrong motor setting, i checked on the hotwire and it is in bl-fw, so it should be ok...
here is what i have tried to do to rectify the stuation.
1, swapped packs
2, swapped motors to a known working one
3, swapped the receiver
4, loaded version 200, still did it, so i reloaded 203
5, swapped sensor wires
the lights do not blink when thee is no motor attached to the esc
during the last race i used it, the truck(sc10 17.5 duo2 motor) the truck lost bottom end, i assumed it was the diff shims going bad, in reality it must have been cogging...
i fear it is in need of replacement...or am i missing something.
again, i sent a pm to randy, and tommorrow morning i will call tekin, i am just looking to see if i missed any thing....
thanks for the help
01-17-2010, 08:36 AM
hey guys....
i feer my 6 pack old rs is dead....i sent a pm to randy to ask his thoughts, but i will ask you guys also
so, here is what is happening, the 1,2-6,7 led blinks constantly...which per the manula is the wrong motor setting, i checked on the hotwire and it is in bl-fw, so it should be ok...
here is what i have tried to do to rectify the stuation.
1, swapped packs
2, swapped motors to a known working one
3, swapped the receiver
4, loaded version 200, still did it, so i reloaded 203
5, swapped sensor wires
the lights do not blink when thee is no motor attached to the esc
during the last race i used it, the truck(sc10 17.5 duo2 motor) the truck lost bottom end, i assumed it was the diff shims going bad, in reality it must have been cogging...
i fear it is in need of replacement...or am i missing something.
again, i sent a pm to randy, and tommorrow morning i will call tekin, i am just looking to see if i missed any thing....
thanks for the help
i feer my 6 pack old rs is dead....i sent a pm to randy to ask his thoughts, but i will ask you guys also
so, here is what is happening, the 1,2-6,7 led blinks constantly...which per the manula is the wrong motor setting, i checked on the hotwire and it is in bl-fw, so it should be ok...
here is what i have tried to do to rectify the stuation.
1, swapped packs
2, swapped motors to a known working one
3, swapped the receiver
4, loaded version 200, still did it, so i reloaded 203
5, swapped sensor wires
the lights do not blink when thee is no motor attached to the esc
during the last race i used it, the truck(sc10 17.5 duo2 motor) the truck lost bottom end, i assumed it was the diff shims going bad, in reality it must have been cogging...
i fear it is in need of replacement...or am i missing something.
again, i sent a pm to randy, and tommorrow morning i will call tekin, i am just looking to see if i missed any thing....
thanks for the help
01-17-2010, 08:40 AM
I've had this twice now. The first was with an R1 that I had to send back for repair. The second was with the RS. If you have any solder (could be a very small sliver) that is grounding out two poles, the speedo will see brushed mode. I rewired mine and found a very small sliver of solder at the base of two poles. Cleaned it up and replaced the wires... problem solved.
01-17-2010, 08:45 AM
My 12th scale 10.5 setup for 203 from the Chesterfield club meeting last night. No sweepers so I decided to try without any turbo boost. Worked well, maybe will try a little more timing boost next time.
Trev
Trev
01-17-2010, 08:55 AM
Thanks Trev. Looks almost identical to what I ran except I had some turbo and maybe a bit more rollout (track was small but pretty sweepy).
01-17-2010, 09:04 AM
I've had this twice now. The first was with an R1 that I had to send back for repair. The second was with the RS. If you have any solder (could be a very small sliver) that is grounding out two poles, the speedo will see brushed mode. I rewired mine and found a very small sliver of solder at the base of two poles. Cleaned it up and replaced the wires... problem solved.
in fact i put my ko in, and it works fine.....
01-17-2010, 09:30 AM
How many total degrees of timing is the v203 giving you guys running this speedo. If I am correct you can get 50deg. in the speedo alone and an "x" amount on the motor. What are the total degrees you guys are running and what ratio's are you doing this at?
I also would like the info for you v200's if possible.
Thanks,
I also would like the info for you v200's if possible.
Thanks,