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Old 10-27-2009, 07:21 AM
  #7816  
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Originally Posted by RMKinWI
My motor seems to be running hot - to hot to touch for very long anyway. It seems to fade as the race goes on.

How do I reduce the motor Temp.

I am running a Tekin 17.5 and RS Pro with a 81 spur and 32 pinion in a TC5 which has a 2:0 ratio. 5.06FDR

Boast is set to 10
Turbo is 10
delay 0.2
drag brake 7
profile 4


I am 2 races into my onroad career - so I need all the help I can find.
Get a temp gun, that would be my first bit of advice to you.

Too hot to touch for too long could be a low 130F, you don't need to be concerned unless it is over 170F. Most motor manufacturers want their motors run below 170F, so get a temp gun and check the motor as soon as you step off the drivers stand.

Keep in mind that track temps, driving style, track length, and track layout all effect the temps in addition to the motor timing and gearing.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:29 AM
  #7817  
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Originally Posted by RMKinWI
My motor seems to be running hot - to hot to touch for very long anyway. It seems to fade as the race goes on.

How do I reduce the motor Temp.

I am running a Tekin 17.5 and RS Pro with a 81 spur and 32 pinion in a TC5 which has a 2:0 ratio. 5.06FDR

Boast is set to 10
Turbo is 10
delay 0.2
drag brake 7
profile 4


I am 2 races into my onroad career - so I need all the help I can find.
If your running on a track with a long straight, 100+ feet, then using a turbo delay less than .5 is causing your problem. I would go with 20-30 boost, max turbo and try turbo delay of .7 or greater. Your drag brake setting is low so you probably don't even feel the effect and is not causing over heating. I run DB of around 30 in my setup and it works great.

Randy has mentioned this numerous times, Turbo advances timing past the point of which a motor should be timed. So letting it over rev for to long just causes to much heat and does not provide the benefit you would think.

You should also think about gearing in the 4.4 to 4.8 range. Under gearing your car can also generate heat. I did not think this was possible but I have personally experienced this through experimentation.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:39 AM
  #7818  
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You must keep it under the 180F.

I have with the new software my motor at 160F max.
I got it last Sunday on 170F after 13 min. racing.
Lipo was still power full.
After 10 min. racing it was about 165F.
The races are only 5 min. so the motor temp will be even lower than 165F.
The Tekin has a long runtime. The SPX was after 11 min. empty and after 13min. measuring my lipo it was still ad 7,6V.
I use a 5000 28C lipo of TOP racing.
I don't now how but the motor stays cool and incredible run time with a 10,5T.
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Old 10-27-2009, 07:39 AM
  #7819  
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RMKinWI - Also, do not be afraid to experiment with the throttle profile.
There are many features on the ESC to get used to, but this setting should make no difference to motor temperature...

Turbo delay is useful for applying it at the right time - getting to top speed too early (and coupled in a situation with the wrong gear ratio) only causes exsessive heat build up where the motor is at high rpm for too long.

It is all about finding a sweet spot where the motor has a comfortable amount of speed down the straight, but not to the point where the car will not pull very well through the corners.

If the car is getting to top speed too early, try a 2 more teeth on the pinion and see how it goes down the straight, monitoring the motor temperature as you experiment.

A safe time to monitor temperatures for a 5 minute race would be around 3, or 3.5 minutes.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:14 AM
  #7820  
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I am running a 13.5 redline with the RS in a TC4.
I am fairly new to onroad and noticed my temps
were at 160ish after a 6 min run. Is this too high?
I am used to running the Tekin in my B4 where temps
stay at 125 or so. Here is my current set-up:

The track is carpet and is shown here: www.outbackraceway.com
drag brake: off
brake: 60
neutral: 56
throttle: 3
push: off
timing: 23
turbo: 16
delay: 0.3
pinion: 26
spur: 72
FDR: 6.92
battery: SMC Lightning Volt 5200 24C
any suggestions on my heat or any other
part of my setup would be great

Also. I switch my RS between my TC4 and
my B4. I use velcro to hold it down, but in
the TC4 it does not stay fastened to the chasis
with the Velcro. Any tips?

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:03 PM
  #7821  
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just got my rs
getting rid of my sxx for 190
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:02 PM
  #7822  
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Originally Posted by storytyme
I am running a 13.5 redline with the RS in a TC4.
I am fairly new to onroad and noticed my temps
were at 160ish after a 6 min run. Is this too high?
I am used to running the Tekin in my B4 where temps
stay at 125 or so. Here is my current set-up:

The track is carpet and is shown here: www.outbackraceway.com
drag brake: off
brake: 60
neutral: 56
throttle: 3
push: off
timing: 23
turbo: 16
delay: 0.3
pinion: 26
spur: 72
FDR: 6.92
battery: SMC Lightning Volt 5200 24C
any suggestions on my heat or any other
part of my setup would be great

Also. I switch my RS between my TC4 and
my B4. I use velcro to hold it down, but in
the TC4 it does not stay fastened to the chasis
with the Velcro. Any tips?

Thanks.
Your temp is good.
keep the motor below the 180F.

Check your Turbo delay.
Set your Turbo on 0 and try some laps. see were the the car is on his top and ad than the Turbo. Try to find the same spot to get it kicking in.
I start normally with a Turbo delay from 0,8 and lower it each time.
On what timing is the motor?
If it's on 10 set your Turbo delay on 0,7 to 0,8 and see what it does.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:06 PM
  #7823  
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Everyone, I have had the same problems as you all describe, overheating, lags and so on. Used to run my FDRs on 17.5 5-6.5. And a 13.5 the same FDRs! Decided to start at square 1, run all your boost and turbo at 0 and motor timing at 0. Use the FDR chart from Fantom racing and Novak. I went from 6 FDR to 4.5 on my 13.5 and WOW, with no boost and messing with the turbo you can actually feel the difference. What is happening is everyone is trying to run max boost and turbo which adds up to 40+ timing I am guessing and the motors dont know what to do even when you gear down! Turning the timing down will greatly improve temps and how it runs.
So, the FDRS I use are from novak and Fantom
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:26 PM
  #7824  
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Originally Posted by jhock
Everyone, I have had the same problems as you all describe, overheating, lags and so on. Used to run my FDRs on 17.5 5-6.5. And a 13.5 the same FDRs! Decided to start at square 1, run all your boost and turbo at 0 and motor timing at 0. Use the FDR chart from Fantom racing and Novak. I went from 6 FDR to 4.5 on my 13.5 and WOW, with no boost and messing with the turbo you can actually feel the difference. What is happening is everyone is trying to run max boost and turbo which adds up to 40+ timing I am guessing and the motors dont know what to do even when you gear down! Turning the timing down will greatly improve temps and how it runs.
So, the FDRS I use are from novak and Fantom
When you let the Turbo come in on the right moment, the Turbo doesn't really make the motor much hotter.
I stay easy below the 180F.
You can set the Turbo on max and use Boost of 25.
Only use than a higher Turbo delay.
But it's what you say, Whit the Turbo, you don't need a lot of Boost.
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:40 PM
  #7825  
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With my experience so far, the Boost adjustment is adding that little extra speed all over the track. The turbo is for that straightaway jump. I have been experimenting heavily with the settings and have tried using some of the teams setup sheets and I dont konw how they do it? I have run the same settings and the car doesnt seem fast my lap times are the same? Only difference is the motor is hotter. So I decided to go a different direction, and went back to the the lowest settings. I have played with the boost to get that extra speed but I dont go above 15 anymore. The Turbo I can actually notice more now since the boost is turned down(motor cant go anyfaster since it was maxed out). I was getting tired of the guys with DUO motors pulling me on the straights. Also, I adjusted the EPA on my radio down and calibrated then turned it back up to help with the Turbo.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:06 PM
  #7826  
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I use with the 10,5T between 15 and 20 Boost.
I tried more but only without the Turbo this was working very well with the speedpassion.
The LRP I use now 18 Boost. this motor also needs a bit more boost than the Tekin motor that I have.
I run 15 boost with the Tekin and 8 to 10 on the motor and with the LRP I use 18 Boost and the motor is standard on 12 so it uses more timing and I gear it a bit heavier than the Tekin.

With the Speedpassion without the Turbo I used up to 28 Boost with a heavie gearing and it was fast.

I tried 23 Boost last Sunday with the LRP 10,5 and it was slower than the 18 Boost.
The 10 Boost was also slower than the 18 Boost. Also when I geared the motor heavier, the car was slower than with 18 Boost.
I think that some motors has there own sweet spot with timing on it.
The speedpassion lovers a lot of timing and a heavy gearing wile the LRP and the Tekin love a lower timing and a lighter gearing.
The Tekin 10,5 you can gear super light. It's just amazing.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:50 AM
  #7827  
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Has anyone tried HotWire with Windows 7 yet?
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:53 AM
  #7828  
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Originally Posted by komkit
Has anyone tried HotWire with Windows 7 yet?
works perfectly
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:02 AM
  #7829  
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Originally Posted by theisgroup
works perfectly
Thank you, nice!! My Dell Latitude D610 served me well, it time for its to take a rest
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:08 AM
  #7830  
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Originally Posted by komkit
Thank you, nice!! My Dell Latitude D610 served me well, it time for its to take a rest
your 610 would run win7 nicely. so why retire it. make it the RC workhorse
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