Tekin RS ESC sensored
08-19-2009, 09:53 AM
#6316
Hello,
I have a Tekin RS with the following settings...
FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5
Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F
The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.
The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.
I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?
Thanks in advance.
I have a Tekin RS with the following settings...
FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5
Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F
The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.
The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.
I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?
Thanks in advance.
08-19-2009, 11:15 AM
#6317
In the past, I would like to stay around 30 degrees of total timing for my 17.5 12th scale. Now that I have v200 on my RS, how do I figure in the turbo number? Should I now add all three numbers together (motor timing + timing boost + turbo) to equal 30 or is the turbo number completely seperate from the calculation now? Is it okay for the motor timing and timing boost to equal 30 and then add turbo on top of that?
08-19-2009, 11:17 AM
#6318
Tech Legend
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Stweart20Fan I run on track just tad long in the straight at right at 95ft. My settings are very similiar to yours. My TP is at 5. Everything else is almost identical. I gear at 5.14 and it has huge punch in the infield and great rip down the straights (and when the boost kicks it I just smile). Motor wise I use the Novak Ballistic at factory set timing. I think if you get down close to the 5.00 to 5.15 range you will see a huge differance.
I know on the DUO at are track almost everyone runs the middle hole on the timing.
By reading Randy's post from what I run and what he said I think he is 100% dead on what to try. When I ran the Tekin for the first time I ended up doing exactly what he posted and had great results. Thanks to my buddy SRW141 for dialing me in the right direction.
I know on the DUO at are track almost everyone runs the middle hole on the timing.
By reading Randy's post from what I run and what he said I think he is 100% dead on what to try. When I ran the Tekin for the first time I ended up doing exactly what he posted and had great results. Thanks to my buddy SRW141 for dialing me in the right direction.
08-19-2009, 11:25 AM
#6319
Tekin RS with the following settings...
FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5
Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F
The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.
The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.
I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?
FDR: 5.49
DB: 0
RS: 100
BS: 100
NW: 12
MT: BL-FW
TP: 2
VC: 2
PC: off
Timing boost: 20
Turbo: 10
Turbo delay: 0.5
Motor: Duo with timing all the way down (10* I believe).
Motor temp: 130* F
The track has an 80' straight outside to outside. The effective usable length is probably about 50'.
The problem I am having is the car has no punch. At the end of the straight, the car is as fast as anyone, but at the beginning, everyone pulls away from me.
I've tried going down one tooth on the pinion (FDR 5.64) and bumping the timing, but the car was slower and this showed on my lap times. Giving the size of the track, could it be possible that I need to go down more teeth on the pinion? Closer to a 6.0 maybe?
2 Timing boost to 15 (more low end power)
3 Turbo to 20/max (more high end speed)
4 delay at .5 ( good for small outdoor tracks )
5 TP at 4
The tekin speedo will NOT provide any boost untill the first 3 to 5 feet off of the line to give you the most LOW end power . After 3 to 5 feet the Boost kicks in for the rest of the run unless you stop. The turbo comes in on the strait BUT you have to pull the throttle to max early on the last turn before the strait to make use of the turbo function because of the .5sec min delay.
Motor temps should be 150deg to 160deg for the Duo. (check temps often life every 30sec during a 6 min practice run) do not exceed 180degF at any time.
Hope this helps
08-19-2009, 12:20 PM
#6320
btw, when comparing the end bell of my non adjustable SP 13.5 and the adjustable duo. the "0" hole on the duo is the same as the only hole on the SP, after doing some reading, it is suggested that the hole on the SP is between 10 and 13 degrees. so with '0' on the duo and 15 on the ESC thats at least 25 degrees of timing.
08-19-2009, 01:01 PM
#6323
btw, when comparing the end bell of my non adjustable SP 13.5 and the adjustable duo. the "0" hole on the duo is the same as the only hole on the SP, after doing some reading, it is suggested that the hole on the SP is between 10 and 13 degrees. so with '0' on the duo and 15 on the ESC thats at least 25 degrees of timing.
__________________
__________________
1 Drop graring to 4.4 to 4.8 ( seems to be sweet spot) Yea what SkyPilot said
2 Timing boost to 10 (more low end power)
3 Turbo 15 to 20 (more high end speed) Keep total timing under 45deg MAX 35deg seems to be the best and any thing higher just gets the motor Hotter faster depending on gearing.
4 delay at .5 ( good for small outdoor tracks )
5 TP at 4
The tekin speedo will NOT provide any boost untill the first 3 to 5 feet off of the line to give you the most LOW end power . After 3 to 5 feet the Boost kicks in for the rest of the run unless you stop. The turbo comes in on the strait BUT you have to pull the throttle to max early on the last turn before the strait to make use of the turbo function because of the .5sec min delay.
Motor temps should be 150deg to 160deg for the Duo. (check temps often life every 30sec during a 6 min practice run) do not exceed 180degF at any time.
Hope this helps
2 Timing boost to 10 (more low end power)
3 Turbo 15 to 20 (more high end speed) Keep total timing under 45deg MAX 35deg seems to be the best and any thing higher just gets the motor Hotter faster depending on gearing.
4 delay at .5 ( good for small outdoor tracks )
5 TP at 4
The tekin speedo will NOT provide any boost untill the first 3 to 5 feet off of the line to give you the most LOW end power . After 3 to 5 feet the Boost kicks in for the rest of the run unless you stop. The turbo comes in on the strait BUT you have to pull the throttle to max early on the last turn before the strait to make use of the turbo function because of the .5sec min delay.
Motor temps should be 150deg to 160deg for the Duo. (check temps often life every 30sec during a 6 min practice run) do not exceed 180degF at any time.
Hope this helps
08-19-2009, 01:28 PM
#6324
on the radio issue i noticed on a friends KO Helios that initially he had turbo and then it would not work.
After reloading software and calibration it was OK but faded or stopped working after a while.
I took the radio and recalibrated again and tested on the table.
What i noticed is initially at full throw the turbo would kick in but after a few squeezes it stopped. I then pressed the trigger harder and it worked again.
Seems there is a variation in the reading on the radio pot or its loose or something that effects it to do this.
Increasing the epa a few point after calibration has helped and it works great.
After reloading software and calibration it was OK but faded or stopped working after a while.
I took the radio and recalibrated again and tested on the table.
What i noticed is initially at full throw the turbo would kick in but after a few squeezes it stopped. I then pressed the trigger harder and it worked again.
Seems there is a variation in the reading on the radio pot or its loose or something that effects it to do this.
Increasing the epa a few point after calibration has helped and it works great.
08-19-2009, 01:59 PM
#6325
on the radio issue i noticed on a friends KO Helios that initially he had turbo and then it would not work.
After reloading software and calibration it was OK but faded or stopped working after a while.
I took the radio and recalibrated again and tested on the table.
What i noticed is initially at full throw the turbo would kick in but after a few squeezes it stopped. I then pressed the trigger harder and it worked again.
Seems there is a variation in the reading on the radio pot or its loose or something that effects it to do this.
Increasing the epa a few point after calibration has helped and it works great.
After reloading software and calibration it was OK but faded or stopped working after a while.
I took the radio and recalibrated again and tested on the table.
What i noticed is initially at full throw the turbo would kick in but after a few squeezes it stopped. I then pressed the trigger harder and it worked again.
Seems there is a variation in the reading on the radio pot or its loose or something that effects it to do this.
Increasing the epa a few point after calibration has helped and it works great.
08-19-2009, 02:22 PM
#6326
Thanks for the help
I just wanted to thank all who tried to help me with my V200 and Vista problem. I spoke with a tech support guy this afternoon all I had to do was erase the esc file from the virtual store to stop it from going back to v180. Now I can go to the track and actualy tune this thing without bothering other guys who have the system.
Any good setups for a RS W/ Duo 2 in a 1/10 4wd tourong car for me to try I hav a race this weekend at the local festival the track is going to be 90-120ft on the straight don't know for sure yet. and it is usualy open and wide in the turns at the store parking lot.
Any good setups for a RS W/ Duo 2 in a 1/10 4wd tourong car for me to try I hav a race this weekend at the local festival the track is going to be 90-120ft on the straight don't know for sure yet. and it is usualy open and wide in the turns at the store parking lot.
08-19-2009, 02:26 PM
#6327
In the past, I would like to stay around 30 degrees of total timing for my 17.5 12th scale. Now that I have v200 on my RS, how do I figure in the turbo number? Should I now add all three numbers together (motor timing + timing boost + turbo) to equal 30 or is the turbo number completely seperate from the calculation now? Is it okay for the motor timing and timing boost to equal 30 and then add turbo on top of that?
--pakk
08-19-2009, 02:44 PM
#6328
Tech Master
This is only for 1 race. I race this Sunday on my home track the National championship. Here we must use the Speedpassion 10,5T.
Not the fastest motor but it runs good enough fore the race because every body must run one.
2wdrive I normally run a Tekin motor so I understand that you were looking strange to hear that I use a Speedpassion.
Nr 8 his Tekin is on his way.
Nr 9 borrows a Tekin RS Pro this Sunday because his GM isn't that fast any more.
He is going to buy one to.
Nr 10 is saving money for the Tekin and some other drivers wait till the winter to buy 1.
I was the first one out here and every body see's how much power the Tekin has.
Now they want one to because almost all the GM drivers hath problems with there GM Genius 120 and 0 Tekin problems.
Nobody didn't finish because of the Tekin speedo.
So this National race there will be 3 Tekins instead of 1.
I join the other driver this race and 1 driver is switching to Tekin.
I do my best to end up in the A main.
It will be hard so I'm also happy with a top 3 in the B final but my goal is a A final.
want to show them that I'm still fast with a 10,5T because I didn't race the last race on my home track.
08-19-2009, 03:18 PM
#6329