rosko

Push brake is what i want, drag brake is fine.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Rosko, you need to check the "brake strength" setting on your Esc via either the Hotwire OR the onboard buttons.

Also make sure your radio if equipped has the ABS function turned off.

rosko

Dont know how to post pic.

Voltage cutoff 2s drag brke off
Drive mode sensored only brake strength 100
Motor direction normal reverse speed off
Throttle profile 3 neutral width 10
Current limit off brake minimum 30
Throttle minimum 10 active brake on
Push control off

CloseYetFar

So last time I was at the track I was in a hurry for a heat and connected my RS Pro with the wrong polarity. It fried almost instantly. I had the RS Pro for about a year, it was a great ESC. The main issue was I switched batteries in a hurry and it happens that the bullet polarities are reversed on the other battery. So I hooked it up the same way which happened to be reverse polarity.

My point here is there needs to be some protection for this. Not just Tekin, but for all ESC manufactures that want to sell $200 ESCs. They need to figure a way to stop this from happening so easily. It's just not acceptable in my opinion, you make the mistake just once after countless races and its game over for you. I believe this feature is possible in some way and worth it. Even if it increases your on-resistance a little.

Attached is a picture of the batteries and the harness I spoke of. I marked the positive terminals with white dots.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Simple solution is :

Buy all lipos with the same setup
Make leads different lengths so that you cannot reach the wrong connection point.

Virtually all ESC's no longer carry reverse voltage protection. Maybe this is to do with brushless motor systems ... not sure

It is a simple fact of life now ... you need to think before connecting

BCbud

iTrader: (37)

Here is how you can make all your batteries the same polarity.

Take a 5/32 drill bit and a pair of vise grips. Insert the bit into the female 4mm bullet plug in the battery. Using the vise grips to hold the drill bit slowly turn the battery to drill through to the other side. Do the same for the 2nd plug. Now turn the battery over and take a drill bit a couple of sizes bigger and just drill the plastic above the conector so the larger male plug will go in without hitting the plastic. Now take a piece of electrical tape and cover the original plug holes. I recomend using some red tape or nail pollish to mark the new + on what use to be the bottom of the battery.

When battery the conectors are closest to you the + is on the right side on most batteries I have seen.

I did not come up with this solution, another racer in our club did. I am just passing this on to help ther racers with this problem. I have done it myself and it works fine. I do not take any responsibility for any mishaps that may happen when doing this modification.

Neil.

CloseYetFar

Thanks for the tips guys. I will figure out some way to make my setup fool proof in the future. But for $200 plus electronics, the ESC manufactures really do need to figure out a polarity protection scheme. Instead of leaving it to the paying customer. I feel the don't make a mistake even once excuse is just neglect on their part.

I'm hoping Tekin is willing to step up to the plate on this issue, especially since most high end batteries are using bullet connectors.

BCbud

iTrader: (37)

I wouldnt falt Tekin, I would falt the battery manufactures for not agreeing on a standard polarity on there batteries.

mkiiina

iTrader: (71)

I disagee that you should fault the battery mfgs on this. Depending on how I orient my RS I can have the polarity reversed quite easily. Sometimes it makes sense to have the red/black wires reversed due to the way the car is laid out.

I have done how CloseYetFar has recommended on my WGT for my 1s packs and it helps.

CloseYetFar

Yea it would be nice if maybe batteries had a 5mm bullet for "+" and 4mm for "-". But I doubt all the different battery manufactures would stick to that standard. Plus when polarity is reversed it's not their product burning up. The battery that burned up my ESC balances just fine to .002 volts difference.

Also I'm not just blaming Tekin for not solving this. All the major ESC manufactures have been letting this issue slide for a while now

Geezatec

RS is toast. Voided the warranty. Bullet connector should be different sizes. Or hard wired for battery connection. Make your own Bullets and Deans for each battery packs you use. What will make you not do what you did. Come by expereiance. Do what makes thing easy for you.

komkit

iTrader: (6)

I am looking for setup help with RS/10.5 DUO 1 motor. This is for 2WD buggy running on a very low to mid bite indoor dirt track. I am running B4.1 WC and 223 version.

The track side is about 75x45. I am having some difficulty keeping the front wheel down. RS is set to blinky mode with 75 spur and 29 pinion. 10 out of 14 laps my front wheel would lift a little past the half way mark. I can’t really back off my slipper anymore or I would melt my spur gear. Slipper clutch bench test my front didn’t even lift for more than half an inch.

It is almost feel like I have a boost or turbo kicking in but I am running blinky.

I am okay with my RS Pro/6.5 4WD buggy, I do not have to wheelies side effect.

Thanks,

Geezatec

Drop down your pinion gear. Setup you have could be for speed. Smaller spur cuts down the sleed, but torgue when its needed. Wheely's not needed on dirt show speed, you want 4 wheels on dirt.

komkit

iTrader: (6)

Ok

No, I do not want any wheelies.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Adding any type of reverse polarity protection would increase the internal resistance to a point where it would affect performance, something we're not willing to do.

The battery MFG's really made this a problem not polarizing the connectors. A simple female on one side, male on the other would have sorted this out.