lorider75

iTrader: (6)

ok, i finally broke down and purchased the tekin rspro with the hotwire as well. no i was scoping out all the settings and i have no idea what most of them are... i had a quick look at the tekin website and it doesnt say much about the settings. is there a guide as to what is what that i am missing somewhere?? or am i just plain out of the loop?

thanks,
anthony

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=Kuttermax;8020267]Strange problem today with a new Tekin RS I just dropped into my 1/10 Kyosho RB5 buggy with Novak Ballistic 13.5.

I set it up fully sensored with TP3 default. 25 drag brake, 10 neutral point, brakes 80. Kopropo radio - mostly at defaults. I dialed the Novak endbell back to 15 degrees from the stock 30, with the goal to get more low end before boost kicks in at a little of 5k rpm.

QUOTE]

The issue is what software is in this esc?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Hey Anthony,

Sorry. But, your last sentence sounds fairly accurate.

Just scan through the previous 1,150 pages for a complete picture...LOL

But, because most questions and answers repeat multiple times, you can probably just do the last 150 pages or so.

I can assure you...Everything is here...Somewhere.

If you want to ask a question, please provide as much information about your use as possible.

Cheers!

Bill

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

What does "neutral band at default" mean?

I have a KO Eurus but figure it applies to that too.

Thanks.

Bill

Team Pink

iTrader: (20)

Timing Boost- It is basically your bottom end and is the timing used before turbo boost is engaged is how I think of this.
Turbo Boost- Is basically the "Nos" of RC. This is basically your top end. This kind of timing is thrown in after your turbo delay. For exaple if your delay is 0.5 it is going to take that long after for turbo to be in.
Ramp- The ramp is basically more throwing in of timing through out turbo boost so 1.0 turbo ramp will be the least timing being thrown in and so on..
Drag Brake- Is the slowing down of your car once throttle is fully released.
Push Control- Is something that was often used in pan car a few years ago. This was when you let off full throttle your car still rolled to some bit.
Current Limiter- This is used mostly in mod racing to keep everything some what cooler. What I have found is it takes some punch away. Usually in spec most people run from 90-100.

Hope this all made sense if not I am sure someone else will chime in.

JR007

There is a good guide in here somehwere that Randy added in. Perhaps if someone can find it, one of the mods could append it to the first post, that way we can point all the new users to post 1.

TrevCoult

Beginners guide to 208

http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?p=244

Hope this helps.

Trev

TrevCoult

Rollout is possibly a little low, try 48mm. End RPM take down to 10000-11000 RPM and put your boost up to 40. That should make quite a difference.

Trev

nerdling

iTrader: (8)

Hey Guys,

was racing on the weekend and experenced a weird sort of failure....

I slid in to a barrier sidwise and the car lost motor power for about six seconds (still had steering), it happened a bit later in the day as well.

Strangly, I had a wopper of a head on later on that casued not problem.

Any ideals.

Cribbin

iTrader: (4)

i would say you lost power to everything momentarily. When you turn it on, the steering will work instantly, but the tekin takes a few seconds to find neutral and get going. Most likely the plug on your speedy is old, i would throw a new one on and see how it goes

ben

Kuttermax

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Randy_Pike;8020981]208. I have only used 208 and did do the radio calibration. Additional info sent by PM.

lorider75

iTrader: (6)

thanks, the article looks quite promising!!!!

anthony

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Rookie move, but now I realize that I don't remember calibrating the radio/speedo after I installed v208. That is probably my problem (or a major part of it). I was also running my Xray for the first time with a new model on my radio so I doubt I had the throttle EPA's set the same as for my Tamiya!

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Anytime you upgrade the esc software you MUST recalibrate.

Green Machine!

iTrader: (10)

Anyone have, after calibrating everything properly, the symptom of no brakes engaging at all. I start randomly unplugging the battery, turning off and then on the esc and radio, and then the brakes all of a sudden work again?