JCarr

iTrader: (2)

Batteries going bad on you perhaps? I noticed something similar in performance a couple weeks ago, not long after that both my race packs puffed on me. How old are your batteries? These new updates seem to be really hard on cells.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Could be running in SensorLESS mode ?
Check your sensor cable, swap with a known good one.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

the batteries are about 2 months old

i am 100% it is in Sensored mode and i hav used 3 differant sensors and 3 differant motors from 2 different makers

sill nothing

macdude

iTrader: (6)

That's pretty normal. Especially if you are really sucking the juice out of them. Lipo's like to be cycled in the 75%-95% range. When you start draining them below 75% charge they seem a lot softer the next run. The funny part to me is I didn't think we could get to this point as fast as we have. What I mean is I never expected batteries to become the limiting factor in racing again. But even with a little softer cell discharge the lipo's are ten times better than running NiMH or NiCAD's. Every once in a while I will charge up my old nick metal pack just to see how if performs. and WOW its like using a really low end lipo for like 2 minutes, then there just is no power. It's gone. I can get 20-30 min of "RACE" power out of my good lipo packs. Even if they are little "soft" after a run or two. Which in my mind is crazy. I am pretty convinced that Mains should be at least 15 minutes with lipo's. Just like the nitro's do. This would bring the competition up and make people better drivers. And it would bring us closer to an actual limit's of our equipment. Both in heat and power.

macdude

iTrader: (6)

I would check a couple of things, because I have seen this too. But not with this last up date. Before it was because my of my settings in the controller.

Here are couple of things that made a huge difference for me.

First turn off turbo. Then see if the car has more low end rip. I am not sure why this makes a difference, but it did for me.

Then adjust your RPM range, first thing would to me move the starting point up. I would start with 5000 - 6000, based on how long you said your straight is.

Your car will be slower, but you should be seeing an improvement in acceleration.

When you get this working then start adding turbo back slowly. I would run with at least a .2 or .3 delay. Running with no delay tends to make the motor really flat. Some are worse than others but just about every motor I have run does not like getting the "extra" timing too soon.

The other thing would be to resend the firmware. Then Reset the controller to factory default. Calibrate it to your radio and then adjust your full throttle end point by to 105 or 110. I know a couple of guys that can't get to turbo without doing this.

Hope something above works for you.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

my best laptime settings were

start revs 6,xxx
end revs 12,xxx
boost 45
turbo 10
ramp 2.0
delay 0.3
motor timing 5
sensored mode
current limit OFF
motor bl/fw
gearing off 6.4

this is ok for our track with v203 but now i am 2 seconrd a lap slower , i come out of the corners and the "stock" class guys are passing me with 0 timing speedos and 10.5 motors from last year

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

how big is the track

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

250 mtrs with a 70mtr straight , fast and flowing with one chicane before a fast left onto the back straight

Top speed of about 80kph with a good setup and a fast lead onto the straight

TrevCoult

I know what you mean, I'd choose any LiPos over NiMhs any day, especially the later ones. We are really starting to suck the capacity out of them though. Before we had variable timing I was taking no more than 3000mAh out of a pack in 12th scale with a 10.5. Now I'm taking out 4000mAh plus every run. I'm not complaining though, my SMC 4900s have lasted 6 months of heavy use (CRCs on the way) and most of the later NiMhs were practically unusable after 3 months!

Trev

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

I think you will find the CRC's to be vastly superior to the SMC's
Almost like one step of wind better.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

If guys are running their batteries down to the 75%-95% mark in sedan then you're running the car way too long on the track. Even in mod with 1-2 hot laps and a 6min run the guys out here are only using 2000-2700mah (depending on laps turned) and this is rated off a 5000 pack. Some are running up to a 5400 but the used mah still stays the same. So in race conditions I'd say slightly below 50%-maybe 65% is being used. I have seen guys run forever in practice then realize they have been out there 10 plus minutes. I'd like to see longer runs also but we as racers are stupid and will run into serious motor failures because no one will gear smart like a 12th scale for the longer run times.

Just my $0.02

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Those rpm ranges sound awfully low for a 13.5 TC to me. I'm surprised your temps aren't higher. Maybe try bumping them up to 20k and then gear up for speed if temps allow.

mobile chicane1

Help me please.

I have a tekin rs wired to a gm 13.5 sport running in an xray t3, I can get the car quick but only for about 6-7 laps then the motor temp goes to 75degrees c + and the car slows down.

I run indoors on carpet, the tracks genraly have a 25-30 meter straight and lots of sharp turns.

any sugestions on what settings and what kind of fdr I should be running ?

niznai

That's not such a bad idea, but it would make it impossible to run an event with more classes over a weekend. The upshot is that a 15 minute race would basically discourage people from running their gear at the limit of its potential relying on the fact that the motor/ESC is just about going to make it and will burn out just after the race. I am saying that because I have seen people going through three motors and two speedos in one event and while this is not illegal, it is not fair either. That's just about 1000$ worth of gear gone up in smoke in one day. If that's what it takes to win, well, it's not fun any more. This is what I think could not happen with longer races.

Regarding batteries, I think the Nicd batteries were far superior to NiMh in how they delivered the power. True, it was less power to begin with but they were a lot more resilient and low maintenance. Had a longer life too.

gameover

well i tried reloading my firmware and the reset thing as well, still a good 1 sec delay on the brakes I really dunno what to do. I had a perfectly working RS Pro on 203... maybe i wasn't holding my mouth right during the 208 flash, lol

I had to order another speedy for a big race in 2 weeks