23T motor thread
#1216
Tech Apprentice
Here information from Team orion Japan:
The 4ZSF are adjustable.
Only the 3TLF has fixed timing (ORI20059).
The 4ZSF are adjustable.
Only the 3TLF has fixed timing (ORI20059).
#1217
#1218
Tech Apprentice
#1219
Which country?
Some sites even are more opened rules than in Japan, allow 11.5BL mix with 23T BR like in Speedpassion races in HK and Australia, you could see their series gallery here:http://www.kinggolden-rc.com/gallery.html
Some sites even are more opened rules than in Japan, allow 11.5BL mix with 23T BR like in Speedpassion races in HK and Australia, you could see their series gallery here:http://www.kinggolden-rc.com/gallery.html
#1221
You should be right.
But why the latest cans could be beat by old ones, maybe they are not so good?
Could you tell me which motor is more popular in sportsman class of your country, the lastest can ones?
But why the latest cans could be beat by old ones, maybe they are not so good?
Could you tell me which motor is more popular in sportsman class of your country, the lastest can ones?
#1222
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
We aren't really looking at perfect comparison between old and newer cans. Those motors were not in identical cars driven by identical drivers. Many other factors came into effect.
I'm not sure what the sportsman champ was using the other day; my guess is the newer yok. During one of the finals, the other guy was also super fast and he was using the fixed timing Katana motor. I think it still boils down to fine tuning and proper gearing...and to a good extend...a fresh battery pack.
I'm not sure what the sportsman champ was using the other day; my guess is the newer yok. During one of the finals, the other guy was also super fast and he was using the fixed timing Katana motor. I think it still boils down to fine tuning and proper gearing...and to a good extend...a fresh battery pack.
#1223
We aren't really looking at perfect comparison between old and newer cans. Those motors were not in identical cars driven by identical drivers. Many other factors came into effect.
I'm not sure what the sportsman champ was using the other day; my guess is the newer yok. During one of the finals, the other guy was also super fast and he was using the fixed timing Katana motor. I think it still boils down to fine tuning and proper gearing...and to a good extend...a fresh battery pack.
I'm not sure what the sportsman champ was using the other day; my guess is the newer yok. During one of the finals, the other guy was also super fast and he was using the fixed timing Katana motor. I think it still boils down to fine tuning and proper gearing...and to a good extend...a fresh battery pack.
But somebody could tell me if the all new cans ones are unfixed timing, otherwise which of them could timing?
#1229
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
unfortunately i'm not too familiar with the motor?... does it use a yokomo or top can... or is it the new gen Checkpoint style can/endbell's,
As a guide from what i've found, yokomo style motors tend to like being geared a little lower and still scream... but you've got to be careful as they are easy to cook. They will still come back after a rebuild and be okay... but they generate more heat than say the atlas cans. Those on the other hand, atlas motors, you can gear to the moon until you find the right performance.
As for brushes, the best brush i've used in 23t's would have to be the Atlas Sprint Silver brush, second to that would be the Katana lay-down brushes. Both will perform well on all tracks.
A very small detail that can help performance is, inside the brush hoods on yokomo style motors, there's a little contact tab that folds down over time... if you pull it back up again it promotes better contact with the brushes.
Other than that, its much the same as tuning a normal motor, make sure the brush hoods are aligned (probably most important), polish the bushes and make sure its well lubed.
Whilst its not COMPLETELY necessary with 23t's as they can usually last a little longer than a standard motor, they always perform better fresh, so i've always just stripped them after each race and taken the smallest skim of the comm and cleaned out the can with copious amounts of motorspray and use again for the next race. Give the arm a good polish too.
I dont know if its applicable to you, but some 23t races as per the JRMCA rules are 8mins long, so getting the motor cold before the start of a race helps alot.
Anything i've forgotten???
Just drop in the motor and go and give it a good thrashing. To prove their tolerance, last year at the ACT indoor titles i melted the plastic shim at the bottom of the winds in my Luna during a race- skimmed the comm, cleaned it out well and re-shimmed it, and its STILL my best performing motor on the track.
Hope some of this helps
Cheers,
Robbie
As a guide from what i've found, yokomo style motors tend to like being geared a little lower and still scream... but you've got to be careful as they are easy to cook. They will still come back after a rebuild and be okay... but they generate more heat than say the atlas cans. Those on the other hand, atlas motors, you can gear to the moon until you find the right performance.
As for brushes, the best brush i've used in 23t's would have to be the Atlas Sprint Silver brush, second to that would be the Katana lay-down brushes. Both will perform well on all tracks.
A very small detail that can help performance is, inside the brush hoods on yokomo style motors, there's a little contact tab that folds down over time... if you pull it back up again it promotes better contact with the brushes.
Other than that, its much the same as tuning a normal motor, make sure the brush hoods are aligned (probably most important), polish the bushes and make sure its well lubed.
Whilst its not COMPLETELY necessary with 23t's as they can usually last a little longer than a standard motor, they always perform better fresh, so i've always just stripped them after each race and taken the smallest skim of the comm and cleaned out the can with copious amounts of motorspray and use again for the next race. Give the arm a good polish too.
I dont know if its applicable to you, but some 23t races as per the JRMCA rules are 8mins long, so getting the motor cold before the start of a race helps alot.
Anything i've forgotten???
Just drop in the motor and go and give it a good thrashing. To prove their tolerance, last year at the ACT indoor titles i melted the plastic shim at the bottom of the winds in my Luna during a race- skimmed the comm, cleaned it out well and re-shimmed it, and its STILL my best performing motor on the track.
Hope some of this helps
Cheers,
Robbie