Alex C

iTrader: (50)

Robert,

You beat me to the punch ......................... I did my modifications this past weekend, please see the attached for your viewing pleasure!!!

Best Regards!!!!

Alex

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Looks good, let us know how it goes on track compared to the std setup

On another note, has anyone used the On point racing chassis? im sick of looking at cell slots so was wondering is it worth getting?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I'm still really liking mine. Definitely a keeper.

Lizardboy76

Nice where's mine

Hugh Jazz

iTrader: (4)

I thought i read some where that AE was releasing a lipo chassis

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have any tips on how to decrease the rear wheel track of the R5.1 (yes, I've already taken out all the shims), so that all the commonly available rims fit inside the 172 mm easily? I have better things to do on race days than cut the outside mm off each of my rims.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Jaco/Parma wheels have the best offset for the R5.
168mm to 172mm no problem.

mikeygar

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys,

Am running on indoor asphalt and my 5.1 will only hook up late in the evening. I suffer from low speed, on power oversteer. Early in the afternoon, these settings don't seem to agree with my car but with the same settings, car becomes very easy to drive and planted later on. Help please

Currently my settings are:

F:
.018 front springs
1mm spacer bet bulkheads and lower arm
carbon brace installed
caster is 10 on upper arm, 3.25 on lower mounts
toe out 0.5
4mm ride height
Jaco 2x pink / 43mm

R:
Center Shock:
Black AE spring, 30 AE oil
mounted on 2nd hole from bottom
1.5-2.0 mm droop

Side shock:
Muchmore 300 oil (around 50-60 AE equivalent)
AE black springs
3.5mm ride height
Jaco Pink / 44mm

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Have you tried Yellow, or Gray on the rear.
Sometimes a different family of foam on the rear is all it takes.

Could be the Pink rears only work once the track has a good groove layed down.

gpm-parts.com

We run on indoor asphalt too. And find the speedmind foam works better.... But too bad they don't have the new larger rims..... BTW: We use 32 or 30 speedmind depend on track condition.....

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Check back with your speed mind agent, the 2mm larger rear tires have just been released. Fronts are still pending.

The new Speedmind rim is also much stiffer, especially on the outer edge, and perhaps flexier on the inside. I have not really driven on them yet.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I'm aware that the Jaco/Parma wheels fit well, but seeing as how nobody makes donuts any more (or they are at least near impossible to find in Australia) that means I'm stuck with Jaco/Parma tyres. When everyone else has a full range of tyres from other manufacturers to choose from, that's a disadvantage.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Another option I forgot about are the TRC Prime wheels.
They have the most offset of any wheel I've seen, an additional 1mm over Jaco/Parma

Aside from different wheel offsets what type of solution were you looking for ?

mikeygar

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the tips guys - I also have Jaco Yellows, white and grays. Will try them all. Will also checkout the speedmind foams - might have some luck with those.

On a side note - what compound/shore does Yokomo use for their tires? Seems to look like that the Yoks are a bit more consistent than my car...

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

I was hoping for something that allowed me to use the same wheels and tyres everybody else is using.

One option I can see would be to produce different ride-height adjusters. The piece that contacts the pod is 2 mm wide, taking a mm out of that on each side gets me the minimum 2 mm I need to be able to use the CRC rims comfortably – these are by far the most common tyre/rim where I am. However, I'm worried about the strength of a piece of plastic only 1 mm wide in that position. If someone made aluminium ones that could work. Perhaps better still would be some optional hub parts that narrowed the car about 4 mm. I could take a mm or two off the left hand hub with a lather easily enough but I can't see an easy way to balance it on the right.

In the so crazy it just might work category is this: mirror reverse the pod by flipping the pod plates upside down. This means the metal pod parts would be on opposite sides of the car and the ride-height spacers pushed in from the inside instead of the outside. An aluminium tube would then have to be placed over the axle to keep the spacers and bearings from falling out (shim as required). Because of the offset spacing of the ride-height spacers this could be worth a couple of mm. It would also require the motor to run backwards though.

My preferred option would be if someone made some narrower hubs obviously.