valk

iTrader: (13)

i thought 80mm rollout was best for 17.5 boost?
most of the fast guys at my track were running that. i ran around 81/82 rollout with 40boost 20 turbo.

though speed wasnt what i was missing ha.

Serpent Lover

iTrader: (5)

Coming back to the hobby but looking just to do 1/12 since there is a new indoor track nearby, any advice will be appreciated. I am looking at the ASSOCIATED but i see SERPENT has a nice 1/12 out. I will decide in the next few days. I know these 1/12 cars are silly fast so i could use some advice. Weird thing is i always wanted to do the 1/12 thing but did not want to drive 30 miles to do it, now i am more willing with the new indoor place only 8 miles from my house

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

running non-boosted

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

I have an Associated car, but I've had a chance to look at the Serpent close up, they are very similar in design. The Serpent runs a little more active front caster, but otherwise I can't spot a difference. The build quality of the Serpent though looks totally Ace. If you're a Serpent Lover, get the Serpent, it's a little more for spares but I don't think you will be disappointed. Caveat: I'm talking about the models with the transverse battery arrangement, not the new longitudinal set-up cars.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Only 30 miles? My trek is 85 miles each way to get my fix.

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

Anyone else have problems keeping the screws in these cars? One night I lost both screws on one pod plate and both nuts and screws out of the center pod pivot. Last night one of the links came undone under the spring, surprisingly halfway driveable.


Also, any solution to the front body posts stripping out from even the slightest tap?

Serpent Lover

iTrader: (5)

Yea was looking at the SERPENT S120 LT, i want to get a car that i can easily get parts for, what normally breaks in a crash on these 1/12 scale cars? Thanks in advance. By the way i have been hearing that the track near me most of the guys are running the ASSOCIATED thats why i was looking into it, but I LOVE SERPENT cars.

Chaz955i

iTrader: (5)

Usually the screws will eventually seat and stay tight but if not just use a tiny bit of blue threadlock and your issues should be over. As to the front body posts I have experienced the same issue and found that using the longest screw possible will help but not eliminate the issue. I just keep spares and replace as needed.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Tony, Blue loc-tite is your friend.

Avoid tapping things! Seriously, I have not stripped out a front mount in the three years of racing my 12R5.1, however, that is a good suggestion of using a longer screw.

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

rc12 has come a long way
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Associated_RC12

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Front arms, maybe steering blocks and bent front king pins. Its pretty hard to do that but those would be the things that could happen.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

On the Associated damage occurs to the front of the chassis fairly easily unless you make your own front bumper. Corner chassis protectors help, but not as much as a proper bumper does.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

That brings back memories. I had the RC12i or 12L cant remember but it was in that time frame. It had two servos and one controlling that aweful speed control. Also had the Delta Triple Shock 12th scale that was much better for me. I will never forget, thanks!

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

Is a tight loose tight feeling common in the associatted 1/12 diffs? I swapped a bunch of parts around on my diffs and I don't think my flanges are running 100% true on the axles.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Lots of cool stuff on the Classic 12th Scale Thread
Sounds like a bad set of diff rings.
Have had the best luck with the standard AE rings.